well thats what im looking for, i want more power , so thats what i wanted to know, what did u guys do to get more power out of it

 

I just bought some of the design your own intake bits from O'Reilly - so I'll see how that works out.

 

open up the exhaust, some choose the N1 style cans but they're too loud for me so I compromised: a lil weight for the driveability of the RB turbo-back.

That brings your boost up to ~10 psi.

upgrade the secondaries and turn the boost up to 12 psi (max on stock turbo)

Fuel controller

FMIC to lower intake temps

CAI and TID ( cooler air to begin with and I guess the TID helps spool up faster)

better fuel pump for safety

upgrade the turbo

 

Just removing the AFM will not net you any more power. At stock levels, the AFM is an insignificant restriction.

The only viable way to loose the AFM is to convert to a standalone. The HKS VPC is a VERY rare part and generally very expensive if you do find one. Megasquirt requires a good bit of knowledge to set up. Other more polished standalones start at about $800 per unit but must be wired to your car and tuned. If you cannot do this yourself, you'll be spending a lot of money.

 

here is what i'm having doubts on: If you remove the stock TID and replace it with a Prelude intake (or another smooth pipe), wouldn't you be undoing the research and development that mazda did fot this TID? It was specifically designed with the ridges to reduce turbulence and removing it would undo this work, right?

The only good answer I can come up with is: when mated to a CAI it improves performance. But then again it is similar to the stock snorkel (which is restrictive.)

 

It's hard to say - a CAI on my Neon caused a significant gain in torque, but also in engine noise. Whereas testing done with various BMW filters showed that the stock air filter on a e30 BMW 325i flowed equivalent to a K&N Panel filter, and actually flowed MORE air with the snorkel in place. That doesn't take into account that the snorkel was also bringing in colder air, adding to the positive effect of the snorkel.

So it depends on whether Mazda did something to the intake to reduce engine noise at the expense of flow, or whether they optimized flow at the expense of engine noise.

***note : for the purpose of illustration, please look beyond the fact that one of the cars mentioned was a Neon.

 

damn that last line of yours!!

I hadn't thought about noise pollution. Good call. What would be the best way to test both stock and modified TIDs (without going standalone)?

 

I wish I could remember exactly how they did the test on the BMW - IIRC it did involve a leafblower and a rubber ball in a tube or something. :P

 

well hey i ended up getting a Power FC!! and my question is if i install it, do i just take out the intake crap, and im going to run a hks intake for the turbo....so someone please help me

 

The only thing you'd be able to get rid of would be the vane-MAF sensor, since it'll be replaced by the MAP sensor - if I understand what you're saying right.

You'll still need the throttle body, and the other parts necessary to get the air into the engine, obviously. :P

 

lol...hey i thank you for helping me out!!!..

 

What will the engine do if so? I have a starting problem, and I've removed/fitted back the AFM, now no starter but everything else sounds fine.

 

The stock ECU uses the AFM to figure out how much fuel to inject. The throttle cable just allows more air through the AFM. If it doesn't know to add fuel because the AFM is unplugged, then the engine will crank but not start, due to lack of fuel.

 

AFM is not used during the start cycle until over 500 rpm has been obtained. Then it is used for fuel delivery. See online training manual.