need fast help
need fast help
ok so this guy is giving me his 1987 rx7 turbo. the only thing it needs is a starter, upper oil cooler line, and the safc2 tuned how much would all this cost me?
Wow, you are getting scammed. Sounds like some guy blew an oil line, burned up his motor, sold the safc2 along with whatever he could get for it, blamed it on the starter and is pulling the wool over your eyes...
so its a pos? he says its a newer motor. "its a newer engine and i didnt put it in so im unsure about that but the odometer reads like 120k or something like that"
Last edited by nd_track_driver94; Nov 30, 2009 at 03:07 AM.
lol, hes giving it to you? Thats easy, just take it!
If you're buying it though, a damaged engine from the oil line his highly probable unless it was a slow leak that he just noticed, so verify that with him. If you're paying a lot for it then you could bring a compression tester with you and compression test it real quick.
If you're buying it though, a damaged engine from the oil line his highly probable unless it was a slow leak that he just noticed, so verify that with him. If you're paying a lot for it then you could bring a compression tester with you and compression test it real quick.
lol, hes giving it to you? Thats easy, just take it!
If you're buying it though, a damaged engine from the oil line his highly probable unless it was a slow leak that he just noticed, so verify that with him. If you're paying a lot for it then you could bring a compression tester with you and compression test it real quick.
If you're buying it though, a damaged engine from the oil line his highly probable unless it was a slow leak that he just noticed, so verify that with him. If you're paying a lot for it then you could bring a compression tester with you and compression test it real quick.
not paying a dollar. im trading it for a set of enkei p02 17x8 in the front and 18x9.5 in the rear. the rx7 has these mods though real rare greddy catback. racing beat downpipe. camber kit. kbys all around. mishimoto radiator. strut ba. safc2s5 trim and fd rims. i mean he said i could fix it in front of his house but how much is the starter, upper oil cooler line, and the safc2 tuned. i mean all i need is to be able to drive it home. then i could really work on it.
The starter is anywhere from $20-$50. Oil lines from corksport are ~$130. The install of both parts is pretty easy. To tune the SAFC you can easily pay someone in your area, or a local shop would probably charge $100-300. Its very simple though and as long as you have a wideband you can tune it yourself from just obtaining knowledge from online research. The price of the wideband would be the price of a professional WOT tune though so it depends if you'll mod the car later on.
Trending Topics
I don't know how much those wheels are really worth but I would still get it. Just find out whether the oil line completely ruptured or if it developed a slow leak though. If it has a vacuum gauge check the vacuum @ 800 rpms roughly, it should be around 15-18.
ok ill check. what if it is completly rupturded?
its a turboII btw.is that good?im not familiar with mazdas.
alright cool. cuz ive wanted a rx7 but i just havent found one i could buy. but im pretty much getting this one. just needs a little bit of work
so what would that mean. that did happen btw the line fell off and lost all oil. car died and wouldnt start since then.
As in the engine is probably locked and the starter is unable to spin it. The car comes with a lot of goodies though so I'd still take it.
damn. well im going to have it towed home. i was hoping since the effn wiring harness was so messed up it might just be that. and i could put a new one is. is this hard?and is it worth it. this is all i saw when i looked at it that it needed. ignition(where the key goes in)tumbler,throttle cable,starter(as he says)power steering,wiring harness, the oil cooler line and the safc2 to be tuned.
ok so i towed it home today, so much is wrong with it. like the wiring harness is so bad i dont even know how to explain. idk bout the motor. i have 2 days to fix this. does anyone have some pointers?
Huh? It has a twin setup? Thats odd. Post pics of the car! The engine wiring harness isn't that hard to replace and it is most definitely worth it, along with the other stuff it needs.. You can't fix everything in two days though lol...unless the engine is somehow still good.
Huh? It has a twin setup? Thats odd. Post pics of the car! The engine wiring harness isn't that hard to replace and it is most definitely worth it, along with the other stuff it needs.. You can't fix everything in two days though lol...unless the engine is somehow still good.
))))) i turned the crank over today with my hands. found out the eff starter wasnt even hooked up or bolted up. its got a brand new clutch and flywheel. this car is def worth it. i foudn a wiring harness for 80 with s5 connectors. which i have s5 injectors i guess. anyone know how to hook the starter up. pix plz? any other tips?
engines still good! ))))) i turned the crank over today with my hands. found out the eff starter wasnt even hooked up or bolted up. its got a brand new clutch and flywheel. this car is def worth it. i foudn a wiring harness for 80 with s5 connectors. which i have s5 injectors i guess. anyone know how to hook the starter up. pix plz? any other tips?
))))) i turned the crank over today with my hands. found out the eff starter wasnt even hooked up or bolted up. its got a brand new clutch and flywheel. this car is def worth it. i foudn a wiring harness for 80 with s5 connectors. which i have s5 injectors i guess. anyone know how to hook the starter up. pix plz? any other tips?
By nd_aussie at 2009-12-01
By nd_aussie at 2009-12-01
By nd_aussie at 2009-12-01
ok so i tested the battery. dead and wont take a charge. so anyone have any ideas? i mean i tried to jump the car from my 300zx and i got nothing but a click from the starter. i need help.i found a new harness with a s5 clip which i have. now i just need to get the car started
Replace the battery of course. In the mean time don't even hook it up and jump the battery terminals instead. If you can apply power to the starter and it turns yet power to the battery won't, then there's a bad connection somewhere or busted starter fuse. A voltmeter/multimeter can be good for checking conductivity.
If you've got it cranking it's time to compression test it; no sense wasting time on it if the engine's bad. Remove or disable the check valve in a piston engine compression tester to prevent it from holding a reading. You should get 3 even pulses of around 80-110 psi (-ish, IIRC) on each rotor.
If it cranks but won't start, try removing the EGI INJ fuse. Then crank it a bit to clear out any excess fuel, put the fuse back in, then try to start it. You may need to repeat once or twice, but don't run the starter too long without some time to cool down. That's the easiest thing to fix. Otherwise start checking for spark, fuel, etc.
For the oil cooler line, I'd get Racing Beat or Mazdatrix or another with AN fittings. It's about $100 more per pair (maybe only $50 more for you?) but it's worth it. I've heard of Corksport lines that failed after about a year, but I've never heard of an RB or Mazdatrix line failing. Only several people who have had them for years without a problem. As you may have guessed by now, blowing an oil cooler line is a very bad thing.
For the cost of SAFC tuning you'll have to call some local shops that tune. Not cheap IIRC.
If you've got it cranking it's time to compression test it; no sense wasting time on it if the engine's bad. Remove or disable the check valve in a piston engine compression tester to prevent it from holding a reading. You should get 3 even pulses of around 80-110 psi (-ish, IIRC) on each rotor.
If it cranks but won't start, try removing the EGI INJ fuse. Then crank it a bit to clear out any excess fuel, put the fuse back in, then try to start it. You may need to repeat once or twice, but don't run the starter too long without some time to cool down. That's the easiest thing to fix. Otherwise start checking for spark, fuel, etc.
For the oil cooler line, I'd get Racing Beat or Mazdatrix or another with AN fittings. It's about $100 more per pair (maybe only $50 more for you?) but it's worth it. I've heard of Corksport lines that failed after about a year, but I've never heard of an RB or Mazdatrix line failing. Only several people who have had them for years without a problem. As you may have guessed by now, blowing an oil cooler line is a very bad thing.
For the cost of SAFC tuning you'll have to call some local shops that tune. Not cheap IIRC.
Replace the battery of course. In the mean time don't even hook it up and jump the battery terminals instead. If you can apply power to the starter and it turns yet power to the battery won't, then there's a bad connection somewhere or busted starter fuse. A voltmeter/multimeter can be good for checking conductivity.
If you've got it cranking it's time to compression test it; no sense wasting time on it if the engine's bad. Remove or disable the check valve in a piston engine compression tester to prevent it from holding a reading. You should get 3 even pulses of around 80-110 psi (-ish, IIRC) on each rotor.
If it cranks but won't start, try removing the EGI INJ fuse. Then crank it a bit to clear out any excess fuel, put the fuse back in, then try to start it. You may need to repeat once or twice, but don't run the starter too long without some time to cool down. That's the easiest thing to fix. Otherwise start checking for spark, fuel, etc.
For the oil cooler line, I'd get Racing Beat or Mazdatrix or another with AN fittings. It's about $100 more per pair (maybe only $50 more for you?) but it's worth it. I've heard of Corksport lines that failed after about a year, but I've never heard of an RB or Mazdatrix line failing. Only several people who have had them for years without a problem. As you may have guessed by now, blowing an oil cooler line is a very bad thing.
For the cost of SAFC tuning you'll have to call some local shops that tune. Not cheap IIRC.
If you've got it cranking it's time to compression test it; no sense wasting time on it if the engine's bad. Remove or disable the check valve in a piston engine compression tester to prevent it from holding a reading. You should get 3 even pulses of around 80-110 psi (-ish, IIRC) on each rotor.
If it cranks but won't start, try removing the EGI INJ fuse. Then crank it a bit to clear out any excess fuel, put the fuse back in, then try to start it. You may need to repeat once or twice, but don't run the starter too long without some time to cool down. That's the easiest thing to fix. Otherwise start checking for spark, fuel, etc.
For the oil cooler line, I'd get Racing Beat or Mazdatrix or another with AN fittings. It's about $100 more per pair (maybe only $50 more for you?) but it's worth it. I've heard of Corksport lines that failed after about a year, but I've never heard of an RB or Mazdatrix line failing. Only several people who have had them for years without a problem. As you may have guessed by now, blowing an oil cooler line is a very bad thing.
For the cost of SAFC tuning you'll have to call some local shops that tune. Not cheap IIRC.