Hi all,

I have an '86 Turbo II for drift. It has currently 240hp (200 at the wheels). I have a spare S4 engine ready for rebuild (already controlled everything). I want to have about 400whp.
First, is it possible to have that much power and a reliable engine?

Like I said, I'll use it for drifting only, I'd like to use my engine between 3500 and 8500rpm, so here's a question:

I'd like a lot of torque in all my RPM range and a quick spool but not too much PSI because I stay on 2mm apex, so what port (bridge or street) and what turbo ?


What I already have:

2x 750cc inj
2x 1680cc inj
1x 255lph fuel pump
stage 1 Heavy Duty clutch kit
full Racing Beat exhaust


will these be good for 400whp?

For the standalone, I was thinking of the Haltech Sprint RE because I can have it easily and not too expensive here in Switzerland. Is it a good one? Is it pretty simple to tune?

Can I stay with stock ignition coils? Or what should I take?

I'll make a custom free'd intake, and custom V-mount cooling.

what sensors would be better to work with the Sprint RE?

Ah, and I will use 98octane fuel.

So, can you help me through these difficult choices and give me some advices, please?

Thanks a lot and sorry for my english ;-)

Jerem

 

My current spec list is:

13B-T streetport
Strenghtened apex seals 2mm
MFR main bearings
BNR stage 4 turbo
apexi pfc (for '93 fd so i had to moddify the coilpack)
open exhaust
hks twin power ignition amplifier (Been told you need this if you run higher boost)
aeromotive FPR
ID725 pri and ID1000 sec
Bosch 044 pump
OCT clutch, flywheel and pressureplate
NGK B10EGV spark plugs
Magnecor 10mm plugwires

and much more but that is les important

I am around 300hp at low boost and low rpm becaus I still need to improve the cooling system, also with a V-mount. But I should be able to get 400hp or more.



So basically I think you are on the right way. If i would start over I probable also went with a haltec ECU. Expencive but good. No experience with the tuning, I rather let a proffesional do that for me.

I've also been told that MFR main bearings are an advice if you go for higher rpm then stock.

Not sure about the coils. I use stock in combination with the amplifier. But due the '93 fd power FC i had to modify it to dual igniter.

Can't tell you anything about the sensor question though.


Oh, by the way, it also might be better to get rid of the fuel pump resistor relay. You can either bypass it (I have a diagram for that if you want) or you can just rewire the fuel pump.
I did the bypass first, but rewired it later because I have a swirl pot and 2 pumps.

 

Thanks for your answer!

I already rewired my fuel pump directly through a relay commanded with a swith on my dashboard.

I heard stock bearings can handle 8500rpm. Can somebody confirm?


Did you do your V-mount yourself?

 

I didn't do the V-mount just yet. Going for a few aero parts and a paint job this winter, and then for the V-mount.

I my case the main bearings were not very good so I had another good reason to go for the MFR. I understood from the tuner I went that it was a good choice as i was going to aprox 8200rpm

 

Go air to water inter cooling if you are going to be doing drifting.

 

i had similar HP goals a few wks back and this was the setup i was shooting for.

Street port
ID 1000s on the primary
Bosch 1600s on the secondary
Walbro 255
FPR
Bigger fuel line
HKS manifold
Gt35r A/R .82 turbo
Tial BOV and Wastegate
FMIC or V Mount
3 inch DP and Exhaust
Haltech ECU

So i think you need bigger injectors, the racing beat exhaust is prob on 2.5 inch, so i recommend a 3 inch exhaust.

From what i understand a street port is more street friendly and will better powerband for what you are looking for and the bridge port makes more power on the top end and not the low end tq u are looking for.

hope this helps

 

Really? That's not very common, is it? Did you do that mod? At 15 psi, is a V-mount, maybe with electric fans, not enough?


What diameter should the fuel lines have?
The RB exhaust is a 3" exhaust with two 2.375" rear silencers

I was looking at BNR turbos, I saw that the stage 4 made 403whp max. Is it hard with this turbo to reach that power?

Will 2 mm apex seals handle 15psi of boost?

 

16 / 17 psi max i've been told on stock seals. Injectors sounds fine to me, 1000cc primary will make it hard to tune unless you can go to a very low duty cycle. Mine is running rich at idle with id725's. PFC doesn't go below 4% duty i believe.


I've got dual AN06 lines. Constructed that way that I can run a AN08 on the other side of the car so I can expand to dubble pump / feed lines.

 

I forgot something, I want to delete my air flow meter. Will the map sensor inside the haltech be enough or will I need to add a sensor ?

 

I was told the 5/16" fuel lines are a little small for people looking for 400hp

 

You don't need the AFM if you run Haltech.That is the Beauty of the aftermarket ECU.

 

Yes that's nice. I wasn't sure.

I'm looking for a BNR stage 4. Does somebody have this turbo on an FC? I've searched but found nothing really interesting... Any dyno sheet, experiences?

Will I reach 400whp with this turbo at about 15-17 psi?

 

i've got it but not running full boost and rpm yet

 

Breaking in? What is your setup?

 

I have experience with my 500+hp FD, going from 300hp to 500hp, maybe I can be of help, maybe not:

Injectors:

550cc Primaries, 1680cc secondaries - Yours are already larger (anything Larger is unnecessary for 400rwhp. And you do not need expensive ID injectors, although they are easier to tune in.)

Turbo:
I'd go with something inexpensive, tried and true. Good size turbo with great response and cheap/easily rebuilable IMO would be Garret T04S 60-1. You can find one pretty cheap and scoop up an HKS log manifold. You'll easily make 400rwhp around 16-17psi and spool by 4k.

Exhaust: You should be fine with 2.5-3inch

WATER INJECTION: I would strongly consider running 300-400cc of water injection above 12psi to keep down knock levels and intake temps

Tuning: Any standalone system will suffice. I use an AEM EMS. Haltech is great as well. Keep your AFR around 11.2-11.5 in your power band. Timing will depend on how much water you are running.

Clutch: If you going to be clutch kicking you better look into a twin plate above 400rwhp. You may be able to get away with a 6 puck sprung.

Fuel Pump: Don't buy a walbro 255. Pick up a Walbro 400lph and run it directly 12v. This will increase your LPH at the same fuel pressure over the 255 and minimize pressure drop as your boost increases. I think your fuel lines will be fine.

I made 300rwhp in my 1st gen rew swap on STOCK fuel lines with a walbro 400.

 

pinned/dowelled engine anyone?
I have the same goal as OP and i have all teh supporting mods except for dowells/studs.....is it really needed? I will be running e85 so my knock level would be very low, other mods are ID1000/2000, BB T04S 60-1 p-trim, haltech ps1k, ffe-kit and AEM coils, huge fmic and so on....

 

not sure about the 2nd gen internal strength, but 400hp seems completely doable without pinning/studs

 

not true at all, but you might as well go ahead and improve it
I made 400hp on the stock fuel line that runs from the tank to the engine bay, rest of fuel system is upgraded. Hopefully getting rid of the last of that original fuel line this winter

 

See first post

Still need to go V-mount. Stock intercooler is no great succes.

 

Thanks Monsterbox for you advices, they help! I was thinking of the water injection but for later. So you think it's necessary for 400hp? Can I make a system by myself or is it a big job?

what does "pinned/pinning/dowelled" mean ?


If I don't need to change my fuel lines, it'll be great. What about de fuel rails? And is there anything cheaper than an aeromotive FPR? I see this FPR everywhere on this forum but it's quite expensive.

Sorry didn't look at your name

About V-mount. Is there a big cooling difference between theses two types of v-mounts:

 

You're not likely to hit 400 rwhp at any boost level with a BNR, I'd suggest a gt35r, it will hit that power level with ease and then some.

 

That's what Bryan Nickell from BNR supercars told me. So it might be hard to hit 400whp but the gt35r is pricey and I would need a WG and some adaptation work.
This is why I think the BNR could be a good solution for this year and maybe later uprade for a better turbo...
But, I will look for prices here in switzerland. What gt35r specifications do you suggest?



And what do you think for the streetport? mid or large port?

 

Because air (like any fluid) will seek the path of least resistance, the second option would be far superior in terms of balancing flow through the cores.

 

Thanks for your answer. It's what I thought too but I see a lot of setup with the first option. Is it for a better cooling of the engine or for a problem of place?

 

It has been done before on a BNR, but you have to have all the right ingredients and the turbo pretty much has to be at the end of it's efficiency range which will created more heat. I would PM Howard Coleman on gt35r specs, he is good with those numbers.