Messenger87

So I recently did a TII Swap into my 87 using an 87 Turbo Drive train, an N332 ECU and a TII engine bay harness. My problem (as is so commonly the case) is of course my gauges and warning light cluster dont work or on the fritz, and we will for arguments sake say that the charging system is not working so that way I can get advice on a better way to make that work as well. Now through my 3 day search of the forums I have seen this same problem posted repeatedly with little or no advice other than use the search button or some other inflammatory remarks. So if someone would be so kind as to walk me through the processes to fix my problem or refer me to a link that actually deals with my specific situation (to include the parts that I have already used) it would be very helpful.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Look up Tii in an N/A.When you use a TII harness in an N/A car,you need to make a wire for the Charging system...alot of the Posts that pertain to the swaps,have the info that you need.One of them can be Found in the RTEK section,and some other Threads are in the Sec Gen Specific Section.
edit. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s4-gxl-s4-turbo-question-827381/ post #4 BY Hailers..actually if you look through some of Hailer's History,he answers the questions about the wiring issues,when switching a TURBO engine into a N/A car,Frequently..Good Luck again,STYX.

HAILERS

If the only thing you changed was the EM harness on top of the engine, then the gauges should still work normal.

IF you used a Turbo EM harness on the engine and plugged it into the non turbo Front harness, then you need to remove the BR and BrB wires from the ORNANGE plug called X-15 in the attached jpg and run two new wires from the small plug of the alternator to where the BR and BrB wires were in that plug. That's so they will mate with the BW and WB wires in the FRont half of that orange plug.

You've probably blown the METER fuse if the gauges don't work.

Messenger87

I imagine that after these 2 wires are fixed that the charging system will then be operating as it should be, but is there any link with these wires that would make my warning cluster work. Also, how would i go about fixing the guages them selves to include temp, boost and oil pressure......??

thanks.

HAILERS

You can put a Turbo instrument cluster in the non turbo car, but you have to repin the two round connectors on that instrument cluster. I don't care to figure that out. It's been posted on this forum in the past. By ICEMARK/??????? Got me.

WAIT A MINUTE. Do you have the Turbo instrument cluster in the car right now?

What part of the Warning light assy does not work???? No lights? Nothing? No clock?

I would not put a turbo instrument cluster in my car. The boost sensor is inaccurate to say the least and you LOSE the volt gauge (no volt gauge on turbo cars). There's no gain in installing a turbo instrument cluster. Just my opinion. Others have other opinions.

Nothing should have change in the oil pressure wiring if you just put a Turbo EM harness on the engine. The oil pressure wiring does not pass thru that harness. I suspect your problem is you put a Turbo instrument cluster in a non turbo car. Did you do that????????????

Messenger87

Yes Currently there is a Turbo instrument clustr in the car. so i will lokk up posts from Icemark to get further information on how to get it wired correctly. I have to have this done proprly due to the fact i live in california and have to have a referree look at my car so i can get it registered..... after that there will be some immediate changes lol... when i wire up the alternator will that fix my in dash idiot lights?

HAILERS

Well hold off on the alt wires in the EM Ornage plug then, since you have a Turbo instrument cluster. The two wires I mentioned, earlier , the BR and BrB wires are to feed the Boost sensor. the BR is the input to the boost sensor and the BrB is the gnd for that boost sensor.

On the Turbo stock car, the alternator wires are a part of the Engine harness located on the left of the engine bay. The plugs on the Non turbo Engine harness have no place for the two alternator wires.

To get the alternator to work, you'd have to run two new wires. One to a switched source of power and the other to the White/Black wire on the top plug of the ECU (that's the wire that would make all the Warning Lights come on when the key is put to ON.

I ask this: do ANY of the WARNING lights now work??? Any at all?

I'd have to look at the wiring diagram to see how those BR and Br/B wires for the boost gauge could work. It isn't going to be plug and play.

I take *dash idiot lights* to mean the Warning light cluster in the center of the dash.

Oil Pressure gauge won't work til the short, two plug Instrument harness has its wires rearranged. Actually that MIGHT be why the Warning lights do not work. As in the wires in that instrument harness are crossed up confusing things or blowing the Meter fuse. Look to see if the Meter fuse is blown ...or not.

Did you just swap the instrument cluster out or did you also swap out the short harness that connects to that instrument cluster. That short harness would have had two round plugs on the instrument panel and at the other end would be a rectangular connector with multiple sockets/pins. Actually the manual calles that harness a (ME) harness. So when looking at the dwgs and you see (ME), thats that harness connector.

If you see a plug with FME it means a connector connecting the Front harness to the ME harness. See attached jpg for what I mean.

The second jpg shows the two round plugs on the instrument cluster and the rectangular plug I mentioned above earlier.

HAILERS

I attached a blown up view of the FEM-01 rectangular plug on the ME haness.

So see the B/R and L/W on the left of the jpg? That is where you'd have to make the BR and Br/B wires in the ORANGE plug end up to make the boost gauge work. That's an example of some of the work you'd have to do.

And remember, the BR and Br/B wires in the orange EM half of X-15 do not mate with wires going to FEM-01. Those two wires mate with a BW and WB wire(s) that go to a different place. So you'd have to find where the other ends of the BW and WB wire are and depin them and now make them mate with the FEM-01 plug in the attached jpg.

Seems like a lot of work. It's making me dizzy and I'm not even doing any work on it.

Messenger87

Ok, so far thins has been an extremely helpful conversation. I will let you know how it all works out and if i run into any more problems within the next few days i will hit you up.... it is very confusing but hey one step at a time will help out. lol you know there should be a turbo swap section with this as a sticky to help future RX beginners. thanx again for all you advice i will let you know how it works out.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the warning lights all turn on because the charging system isn't feeding into the ECU wiring due to the swap. i can't really read the images Hailers put up with this crappy adobe reader plugin so i will put the pages up side by side on my computer and compare. i would have figured the 2 clusters would have been pinned similarly but apparently they didn't feel like doing it that way in the case of the T2 to N/A cars.

2 new wires need to run from the back of the alternator top pin at the alt plug B/W wire to switched power source from ignition or if allowable in the N/A harness at FE-03 connector under the brake booster 6 pin connector bottom left on the female plug and for the W/B bottom wire on the alternator to F-04 plug at the ECU(emission control under the driver's kick panel, 17 pin connector) to the left of the lock button in the middle top.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

there is only 2 wires missing between the 2 different dash wiring harnesses at the gauge cluster, the b7 and b8 wires for the boost sensor so new wires would need to be run for those.

the other half of the changes need to be made down by the ECU connectors and the wiring diagrams get kinda difficult to compare at that point so i need a few to look them up and compare the differences.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

ok so after a little research it winds up a base model 87 n/a requires the following for a full T2 conversion for the engine to work properly including the gauges:

run 2 new wires for the alternator wiring back to passsenger side kick panel connector
run 2 new wires from the connector at the back of the gauge cluster(both boost wires listed in the FSM) to the passenger side kick panel to where the alternator wires used to plug in on the original harness, on the T2 engine harness they are for the boost gauge
run a new wire to the 10 pin ECU connector brown/red wire and patch it to the fuel pump relay/resistor which does not exist on an n/a car
run a new wire to the black white wire off the 6 pin connector from the main relay and run it to the fuel pump resistor/relay
rewire the rest of the fuel pump resistor/relay directly off of the fuel cut relay to the right of the steering column under the dash
lengthen the wires for the T2 transmission for the reverse lights and shift selector switch at the back of the transmission
move the yellow/white wire to match the yellow white wire in the other FEM connector at the passenger side kick panel


for reference that will get the boost gauge working, the coolant temp, the 2 step fuel pump pressure and the charging system for anyone doing the conversion into a base model car. most people ignore most of these and run the engine with full fuel pressure instead of running the resistor pack for the fuel pump and replace the gauges or hard wire them with new wires to the cluster. you will probably have to replace some wires in the connectors, i move a few around to suit my own needs instead of trying to figure out which needed to remain where and which went to nothing.

to go into detail would require a full write up, which i can and probably will do later.

MXRXRicky

iTrader: (3)

Is this from The FSM????