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Paint my 10AE - Qustion for painters?

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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Paint my 10AE - Qustion for painters?

My 10AE goes in for a new paint job 20 Apr. I want a real good paint job on the outer body so what do I need to remove and what not to remove to make the job easier on the guy who paints the car?? I started pulling stuff off but wondered if I'd be creating headaches for him. I did a search and saw different ways people painted their cars from one extreme to another, so thats why I ask. Any advise?

Do side trim moldings, turbo scoop and 10AE ornaments come off? I already buggered up a rear side molding piece.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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All the trim moldings come off, same with the belt moldings and the trim piece that goes around the window. Any decals and ornaments would come off as well, same with the scoop. The bumpers, as well as any side skirts, should be removed.

As far as buggering up a molding piece, did you just snap a tab off the back? If that's all you did, that's easily repairable as long as you keep the tab. They can urethane it back onto the molding again. Even if you put dents or chips into it, they can be fixed. I just did a complete paint job on my car and had to fix a lot of little problems with them.

I'm taking a course for collision repair/refinishing right now, on my second year of apprenticeship, so if you have any other questions just shoot me a PM or something and if I can't answer it I'll ask one of my instructors.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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Tail lights, windshield and window trim and mouldings (the ones that cover any painted surface on the outside, door handles, fuel door and filler (filler-just enough so you can push it in), headlight doors (just the outer panels held in by 4 phillips screws), door mouldings (have the body shop do it if you've screwed one oup already-you'll end up putting more scratches on the paint if you don't do it right), rear hatch lock.

I know I'm forgetting things, no?

edit: post above beat me as I was writing.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:32 AM
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Why would you remove them yourself? You are already paying labor on the body work and the painting, just let them remove it, if they break something, they pay for it.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Rowtarded
Why would you remove them yourself? You are already paying labor on the body work and the painting, just let them remove it, if they break something, they pay for it.
Most shops will give you a discounted price if you do the R&R. That way when it gets there they can work straight away at getting it prepped and in the spray booth.

@pfsantos: Good call on the taillights, I forgot about those. As far as the headlight covers and fuel doors though, they usually leave those on and mask underneath of it. Because of how tiny the lip is on them, you can get a good coat of paint even on the edges when they're installed.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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Im pulling stuff off to help the dude out since he's someone I know and doing it as a favor at a reduced rate. He does amazing work.

Looks like anything and everything should come off. Question on the the upper windshield trim? Isn't it like a channel piece that engages between the windshield and roof line. Can you remove that?

Icemark, I saw your response regarding spoiler hardware yesterday. Just in time because I had removed my spoiler earlier that day and broke clips FC17-51-968. Saved me time trying to hunt that P/N down.

As for the trim molding piece I buggered up the clip is all that is broke (1/2 piece in car and 1/2 piece sheared in molding)
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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That makes more sense than if you know him. By the way, I am not Icemark, if you were thinking that.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 02:09 PM
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How do you get those windshield washer nozzle thingy's out?

Sorry Rowtarded, I just recognized the avartar (if that's what you call them). I would consider that a compliment. BTW, Rowtarded is a hilarious name.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 02:44 PM
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After you remove the side trim for the windshield (screws onto A-pillar and stuff), you will see the top rubber is just siliconed in. This seal has nothing to do with the seal/glue holding the windshield.

The nozzles - pull/twist the hoses to them off, and you will see the snaps that hold the nozzles to the hood. You just use a needle nose plier to push them together and they come off.
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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Be careful with those side windshield trim pieces too. They get really brittle as they age, and the dealership wants around $90 a piece for new ones.
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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I havent removed the door handles yet because in removing the door panel I went to remove the swith for the window and I dont see a connector? It looks like its wired to the switch, not like my S5. Is there a connector I dont see?

Anyway, heres what I removed so far:
1)Hood scoop-off
2)Wiper nozzles-off
3)headlight black plastic-off
4)Pass/flash lights-off
5)Side markers front/rear-off
6)Rear bumper-Off, but held on with 4 screws so I can drive it there
7)Tail lights-I'll put in with 4 nuts to get there
8)Finisher-off
9)Window hard trim-off
10)Windshield side garnish-off
11)Door mirrors-off
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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if its bolted or stuck onto the body- remove it, it all must come off for a quality job.

when you remove the door panel you can easily unplug the window switch and the courtesy light, there is a short harness from the switch and at the end of the harness is the plug.

dont sweat the molding- there are TONS of S4 moldings out there you can replace any broken ones with, the back molding actually holds in pretty good with just the side marker screws.
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