Romanator

iTrader: (13)

I'm just gonna get straight to the point here. My JDM S5 T2 motor was blown since the day I bought it and so was the Turbo. I got the Turbo rebuilt and now I wanna rebuild the motor with a mild or extended street port (intake/exhaust). Only bitch is I calculated everything and my rebuild would cost me 4200$US only in parts. And not to mention I live in Montreal,Quebec Canada convert that to CDN funds... more or less 4800$CDN. The parts I chose are all brand new from different well known rotary performance shops. The only parts from my motor that are still reusable are the waterpump housing, front cover, intermediate and rear housings. Everything else is either scraped or not recomended to use in a rebuild. Now my goal with this motor is to get the maximum power output I can out of the stock turbo when fully boosted meaning maximum 14.8 PSI. I wanna still drive this car on the streets in the city and highway and also for drag. My intentions at the moment is to go with what's writen on the list below:

Complete Engine Rebuild Kit from Atkins Rotary 13BT 900$ ???
Replace stock Mazda Water Jackets with Pineapple Racing HD Water Jackets 180$
ENGINE HOUSINGS
Front Housing:
89-92 TURBO Front Housing from Mazdatrix.com 350$
Rotor Housings:
89-92 Turbo Rotor Housing. Two are required per engine. From Atkins Rotary 470$ x2 = 940$
Rotors:
Racing Beat Race Rotors 1989-91 Turbo II (9.0 Compression Ratio) 605$ x2 = 1210$
Rotor Bearings:
Pineapple Racing or Mazda Factory Rotor Bearings 25$ x2 = 50$
Porting Templates:
Pineapple Racing Medium Street Port Template for 13BT 35$
Eccentric Shaft:
RX-8 Eccentric Shaft from Mazdatrix.com 172$
Oil Pressure Regulator
The Mazda Factory Race (MFR) Rear Oil Pressure Regulator interchanges exactly with the stock rear oil pressure regulator. It is designed to bypass at 105-115 PSI. (Pressure this high should be used only for racing). When using this regulator, the front pressure regulator should be shimmed 8-inch to ensure that it does not limit the oil pressure (shims included). 95$
Stationary Gears
RX-8 High Power Front Gear 89$ (Does fit all 13B, hardened multi-window bearing, set screw retention. Bearing clearance must be checked/modified if using this with any RX-7 13B shaft.) MAZDATRIX.COM
RX-8 High Power Rear Gear 114$ (Fits all 13b, hardened multi-window, set screw- See note below *) * If using the RX8 rear gear in an earlier 13b engine, you must add sealant where the rear gear o-ring WOULD be. There is no groove to hold the o-ring because the Renesis engine mounts the o-ring in the side housing rather than on the gear. We recommend using Hylomar, but a THIN layer of silicone sealant will also suffice. MAZDATRIX.COM
Water Pump
Brand new Water Pump from Napa or Mazdatrix.com 100$

Now do the math and the total is more or less what I mentioned above. Now I still need a port and Polish job. Add that to the bill + labour and.......... yeeeeaaaaaaahhh! What you guys do in a situation like this ?

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

If you got the money, for sure do it. Looks like a good setup.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Yes I admit it's sounds like a sick setup, yeah. But like for the price it's gonna cost me for all that + porting job + labour,etc. I could get a 91 celica GT-4 with some mods and mags. Is it really worth investing that much cash on just an engine block, when I could get a full car instead. To me it dosent sound right. If someone from these Rotary Rebuilding specialists could build me a fresh block with this exact setup for a more reasonable price it would be more logical and more convincieng to do so. But right now I'm in a major dilema. I already spent 8000$ on this FC in a matter of 2 years and I still never drove the car. I'm still waiting for the day to turn the key for the first time.

I bought an 89 FC n/a auto for 1500$ with 110 000km. Body has no rust. I got screwed 1300$ from ENGINE LAND, a jap motor place, for an s5 t2 engine block+5sp tranny+turbo+ecu+wireing harness. He gave me a 30 day guarantee and I found out that the motor was blown from day 1, 4 months after I purchased it. No apex seals in the 1st rotor. I dont wanna start explaining why it took me so long to install it and find out the bad news the hard way. So I basicaly did the whole conversion from auto n/a too a T2 5spd with. And of course I decided to invest more money into mods and performance parts. Here's what I have so far:

HKS Light flywheel + double ceramic clutch disks + pressure plate + bearings (KIT
HKS Silent Hi Power Exhaust. 3" all the way to a 4 3/4" Muffler Tip.
HKS Direct Drive Air Filter
Knight Sports Fuel Cut Defencer
Racing Beat double alternator pulley
Racing beat emission block off plates
Koyo Racing Rad
Chipped ECU I forgot the name of the company that did it
Walbro Fuel Pump
Ultra Power 8mm Spark Plug wires
Apexi Twin Chamber blow off valve already custom mounted on chrome pipe
Hose Techniques Silicone Vaccume hoses
SS Clutch Line
Ported/Modded S4 Throtle body
Mazdatrix Driveshaft to go from a T2 tranny to a 3.9 non LSD diff
Custom tranny mounts for the conversion

I know I can have a massive FCT2 with this setup but already having invested 8000$ on a car that I never drove and never experienced the pleasure and power and thrill of a stock FCT2, now I have to invest more or less 5500$ to get my engine rebuilt will come out to 13500$ I invested in this car on 2 years. I highly doubt that anyone from this forum would wanna go through the headache I went through. I know it would be a sick and unique car but when I look at it in a different way I could've had a 3 rotor setup by now.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

You can always do used rotors/housings and etc. Just because they're used doesn't mean that they're trash.

majin41

14.8? thats a hellovalotta boost for a stock turbo.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

you gotta pay to play. you bought the car blown as is? you should've known this was going to be expensive.

as far as saying all the money your figuring this out to be and saying that with the projected cost you could buy a celica GT-Four? with mods? and wheels? so... just cause you got SOME mods dont mean its gonna be fast, remember AWD cars are heavy as hell.


sorry to come off as an *** to you but man. complaining about the cost of a rebuild when you know that the car had a blown motor? wow.

what i would do is stick with it. your car is light, your motor will be built and making great power, and you wont have to worry about breaking a transfer case or changing a clutch or something.

OR

dont even do anything and sell what you got if you think its too expensive.\


welcome to the world of the rotary

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Buy used irons and housings on the site, rotors, etc...

Ballin_is_a_Habit

correct me if im wrong but arent the housing you would buy from atkins and mazdatrickz used anyway? -- how bad is your engine? unless they are cracked or otherwise seriously damaged you should be able to reuse them - that could save you upwards of $1000 right there, as for the rotors, try and source them yourself unless you are set on having the RB rotors -- for the price of those rotors you could buy an 2nd jdm engine and part it out --

i guess what im trying to say is dont get too focused on having specific parts there are always multiple routes to choose -- and if you have already bought so many other parts for THIS car why would you want to go and buy a crappy celica !

just food for thought

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

I assume the irons and housings have been measured and are out of tolerances according to the FSM.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

OK.

1. I mentioned a celica gt4 just for comparing. I never said I would buy, I said I could buy, there's a difference.
2. I didn't know at the time that the motor was blown if I knew I would've bought it. Logicaly speaking.
3. I knew what I was getting myself into right away when I decided to go for the swap. I knew I was gonna fall into a money pit. The way I see it now... an RX7 is like a girlfriend, you can buy her as many gifts as you want and she's still not happy. lol
4. The reason I dont wanna buy used parts is because we all know rotary engines dont have a big life span. So let's say I were to buy used rotor housings with 90 000km and it would last me 2 years, I know I'm getting the worst out of those housing right off the bat.
5. I think I'm just gonna scrap the rebuild project and just get a new motor from Mazda because these Japs here from Montreal are all a bunch of rip off *************.

I found out today that a brand new engine from Mazda is 3500$ complete.

But before I do decide to go for that. Does anyone know if an S5 T2 j-spec wiering harness is the same as the US domestic ones ? In other words will my jdm harness work on a US motor and CPU?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

The J-spec engine wiring harness is a good amount shorter than the USDM harness. You can use it, you'd just have to extend the wiring.

There are many people on here that have rebuilds with used components, if the parts are within spec, it is perfectly fine to use in a rebuild. Many people here would testify to that.

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the advice I'll take that into consideration. And btw my j-spec harness is already cut and extended for the location of the ecu, so that's good.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

Use used parts that are within specs and you will be more then fine, but i can see your point of view when you say "DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME" i agree with you a 100% on that. good luck with what ever route you take.

Ballin_is_a_Habit

where could i find more information on new engines from mazda? are you talking 13b rew?

initial D is REAL!

Sorry to butt in, but how much was your turbo rebuild,a nd to what extent did they go through and change parts?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

If you can get a reman from mazda, by all means go for it. I assume time is not on your side?

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Ballin is a habit if you want for info on new engines from mazda go directly to Mazda and talk to the guys in the parts dept or the service manager. That's what I did. And 3500$ is the price of an S5 T2. 13b rew I didn't ask so I dont know.

Initial D is real it cost me 500$CDN from a local turbo rebuild shop here in Quebec called Turbo Tecnique. And he changed all the internals (bearings, shafts, gaskets,etc.) he sandblasted it and painted it silver. He didn't touch the wastegate though. Here's pics of the turbo.

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

looks good. and yeah, if you plan on doing the labour yourself, a reman would be much better suited to you (IMHO). Because you know it's built right, has warranty, and you won't have to waste the time doing it to find out something went wrong. Only thing that sucks is that you won't be able to port it, but such is life. Turbo looks pretty good, hopefully they did a good job on it!! Again, whatever way you decide to go, good luck with it

initial D is REAL!

Thanks, That is a good price. I should check around for more prices, but that sounds like you got a pretty good deal

Romanator

iTrader: (13)

Trots*88TII-AE, Thanks for your support. Hopefully If I can get my FC rebuilt and running within a month or so I'll probobly consider doing a road trip to North Bay. I mean I gotta do my 1st 1000km break-in right. lol. How far is North Bay from Montreal ?

initial D is REAL!, look around and look hard. Call some places and ask for price quotes. And if you or someone you know know's how to rebuild a turbo it saves you $$$. The guy who rebuild my turbo said he had to make a special order from Hitachi and the full rebuild kit was 400$ + 100$ labour/taxes. Good luck!

slpin

iTrader: (9)

ls1 swap