AoshYi

I'm looking into a 1988 rx7- TII model.

Good:
Exterior is near perfect, small, small scratches, no dings
Interior is perfect, no ripping, and replaced seats.etc

Bad:
Car has 150k miles

I dunno how much longer that car is gonna last, when i went for a test drive, it seemed to be okay (not sure about compression stuff)
just from feel and sound of car. But i'm not rotary expert, matter of fact, looking for a turbo II as my foot into rotaries. Car was idling at around .8 rpm. I seriously don't know how rotaries works....

He's asking about 4k for the car. I'm not sure if i should get it, part of me tells me to get it (did a autotrader search got 3 turbo II within 200 miels 1 is already sold, the other is asking 5k) thinking i won't find another FC Turbo II with a good body like that, and part of me doesn't cause of the miles.

Anyone know in southern cali (los angeles area) how much a rebuild or a new engine cost? recommondations also

and is it worth 4k....considering the body/interior is in EXCELLENT condition.

any advice would help. Thanks

Node

iTrader: (1)

If the engine is fine and dandy its worth it, I'd have a compression check done, maybe if someone on the forum who knows his stuff would be kind enough as to go out with you to check it out again that would be nice.
But you're in cali and there are more RX-7s in cali than pretty much all other states in the US, so if you pass this one up it won't be the end of the world.
But still this may be a good one.
How about engine replacements? 150k is pretty damn good for a original engined T2. And ask to see all records and receipts. Basically grill him

I know theres a rotary buyers guide somewhere, I'll try to find it.

AoshYi

i think he mentioned same engine,
car fax came out as clean car.

everything is stock, he's a old man...looks to be late 60's, but prob was around 60 when he bought it, he bought it when it was 89 from a friend of his cause his friend got 4 speeding tickets in less than a month,...

honestly...engine does seem fine..no erradict idle, car was pretty smooth when i test drove it, and i can still feel a kick when the turbos kick in...

i know cali has the most turbo II's, but i'm just saying the body is DAMN nice....never seen it like that on a 1990 under car with 150k miles, means he only did local driving, and not far driving....

oh well...any other advice?

oh..and i do need a car sooooon (like monday)...can't bum a ride off my friend/rents to work forever, and i live about 3 min drive from work (i'd walk, but i can't take freeway and cut through, but would take like 20 min walking ) oh btw, if i can't get the car i want...my dad is gonna force me to buy a 1993 tercel,....i really really don't want that car...

Node

iTrader: (1)

Then quickly take it out to get a compression check
And check this in case more knowledgeable members (oh trust me, theyre everywhere) chime in.

AoshYi

i dunno if he'll let me take it out to check,

somone already offered him the money, i just happened to be the first interested buyer and told him i'll get money to him by monday since banks are closed on Sundays. So he already has another buyer....

I guess...if there was a major problem with the engine, is there any signs? like erradict idle, no kick from turbos, engine doesn't start well, etc...

i'm taking a risk i know...hehe
but i figure i can drive it normal (minimal boost) for about 2 weeks, when i have enough money for a rebuild/replacement...

node : since you seem to be only one up do you know about how much it goes for?

thanks for the help man

WestJaxVert

If you really want it, go to a parts store and get a compression tester there. Go to the guy's house and ask him to help you check it. Pull the EGR fuse and the plugs. Put the tester in one hole, hold the release needle down and have the guy crank it over for you. Look for 3 even bounces at 90 or above (I think). Repeat for each hole. Not 100% accurate but it will put you in the ball park. And be real nice to the guy because you are asking him for a favor and to help you.

Node

iTrader: (1)

You could get a series 4 (86-88) J-Spec T2 engine for $850 from www.fc3s.org
They're long block so it comes with turbo manifolds intercooler etc etc etc, and the engines usually have about 30k miles or less.
And fc3s.org is in cali so it's cheaper.
I think that should pretty much bolt in and plug in with your car. I don't know of any differences w/ the american ECU's to the japanese ECU's

But thats if your engine blew. So hopefully you wouldn't need it.
If you do plan on modding, get a boost gauge, EGT gauge (exhaust gas temp, better than air fuel ratio for telling if you're lean or rich) and a FCD (fuel cut defenser) just to be on the safe side.
And ask here to see what mods need what else to keep it running right, and find yourself a local RX-7 club to join, lots of fun, they'll help out with your car, and more RX-7's so yours doesn't get lonely

WestJaxVert

One is programmed in American and the other is in Japanese.

Node

iTrader: (1)

lol, I doubt that really matters

FoXX

j-spec is limited to 180km/h

Node

iTrader: (1)

really...

FCRyosuke07

iTrader: (1)

Really? that sucks ***. theres gotta be a way to bypass that tho.

AoshYi

Yeah,

I think i'm gonna get it, $850 isn't too bad for an engine, my friend used to have a turbo II back when it first came out. He can help me install it, was trying to get him to go with me, but he was too busy.

I'll prob just drive it really soft till i save $850. Which will take about 1 week, then i'll push it.

What kind of reliabilty mods am I looking at?
all i know are FD's, since i want those the most. (TII = canyon carver and daily driver )

AoshYi

hm...

i just checked that site out www.fc3s.org

I noticed that 2nd gen's are split by 87-88, and 89-91, are they different engines? Like it won't be perfect fit if i get a 89-91?

Node

iTrader: (1)

different harness, changed internals, different turbo, it will all mount up to you but you may have problems with the ECU. Well since you seem to be not hatred of spending $850 on a new engine soon, I'd say make your first mod (after gauges) a haltech or other stand alone ECU, it will work just as good as stock, and will take you as far as you can dream. This is if you are planning to give her some real horsies, then exhaust intake fuel etc etc. You should know some of the routine.

photoresistor

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, the 87-88 and 89-91 engines are different. I think the 89-91 engines have about 20 more horsepower... however, the engine (or the rest of the car or whatever) was heavier, so the performance is about the same.

I'd assume it wouldn't be a perfect fit for your 87-88... just get the 87-88.

AoshYi

Thanks for your help guys,

esp node

i am gonna get it, gonna order the engine right when i have money, so i sorta have one in stock in my garage. Yeah, i know the routine in fixing up slow cars like hondas (cept integ type r), and others, but wasn't really sure about rotaries....

i am gonna get horsies, but not toooo many....still learning how to take lines and stuff (canyon carving). So maybe in the future.