DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

NA and Turbo models use the same coil packs? If so, I want to switch from stock to MSD (mainly for look / size reasons of MSD vs OEM) does anyone know what the MSD product # of this setup is?





I saw these pics somewhere on the net (maybe here, don't remember.) My car is currently NA, but in November or December will put in my turbo swap. I dont want to buy parts that are NA specific if they are only going to be used for a month or so...

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

na andd turbo coils are the same id recommened the hks twin power for ease of install and less space taken up by 2-3 boxes

DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a link?

RETed

The pics clear show it's a pair of "6A" CDI boxes and "Blaster 2" coils.
This is NOT a stock FC ignition system.
It's most likely a distributor system.

You cannot run this system with the stock ECU.


-Ted

The Griffin

Not sure if that piece of alumium with unfinished edge is a good idea.In an impact it looks like it could do wonders to your leg.

cmanns

Looks to be so, since theres only two blasters, 4 plugs, distributor has 2 in, 4 out.

makes sense.

DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so what should I do? I want to move my coil packs inside the car, on the firewall, and am looking for an option that is smaller that the stock ones I currently have...

RETed

No.


-Ted

DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

???

680RWHP12A

definatly a distrubutor setup, not compatable with the stock ecu..

fastrotaries

Hence the NO

DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so what should I do? Does anyone know of a setup that is smaller than the stock ones?

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Do your stock ones work?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I don't know Why you would want to Upgrade to Blaster Coils.They aren't as good as the stock Coils..Wait a Minute..they don't have the Blingie MSD sticker on them!.You can wire the MSD to the Stock coils Very Easily...Power up the box and in and out of the Leading coil.Done.

RETed

You don't want to move the coils inside the car.
Sure, they will be cooler cause no engine heat, but now you gotta run long *** spark plug wires.
This is not a good thing.
Longer spark plug wires add resistance.
Longer spark plug wires means more chances you'll get current leakage.
Longer spark plug wires means more chances of failure.
Longer spark plug wires means more chances of EMI through other electronics.
There's a reason why auto manufacturers are making spark plug wires shorter and shorter.
Look at the coil-on-plug designs.
Shorter is better in this case.


-Ted

DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

That is actually what I want, but havent found any that will work on an FC...
Do you know of a link that has them for our cars?

10aeRX7

iTrader: (3)

why not make a setup using coils from a vette? '00 and up i believe .would be easier, more compact and look clean too.

RETed

There is no such thing as a C-O-P (coil on plug) drop-in system right now.
Some owners have been messing around with the Chevy LSx coil units, but you need to rewire your electrical.
Don't expect significant gains from doing this, as the stock FC coils are pretty damn good for OEM equipment.


-Ted

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Not so sure about this...the stock plug wires are pretty damn long to start with.
Depending on the coil's location in the cabin, it would seem that the wires would/could be shorter than stock. Especially in a cabin as stripped as the one pictured where the coils are right at the firewall, I'd guess the wires (especially the leading coil wires) would be significantly shorter than stock.

RETed

Well, how's about this then...
Going through the firewall...requires a hole and grommets.
Multiply that x4 for each spark plug wire or one BIG hole to fit all 4.
Either way, the whole mess just screams disaster.

Hey, it's your car...


-Ted

clokker

iTrader: (2)

A "BIG" hole?
C'mon, you're stretching here.

Lots of wires already transition through the firewall and seem to do fine, why would the spark plug wires invite disaster?

I'm not planning on this mod but executing it seems like a trivial job in a car as naked as the one pictured.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

STUPID idea for a street car. Ted already hit on the obvious reasons. Coil packs in the dash will **** your radio up and may interfer with what ever else you have electronic in the cabin. Its just a dumb idea unless its a stripped dedicated RACE car with gutted every thing and its shielded from all other electronics. And yeah, that would be one BIG HOLE, four wires and the use of a groment would need to be minimum of 2" and thats if you built the wires putting the spak plug ends on AFTER you stuff those through the hole. If you have preassembled wires, your going to need a BIGGER HOLE to stuff them through. And for the sakes of looks?? WTF? The stock FC coil packs ROCK, theres no need to replace them. Even FD guys use them running high boost (18+ PSI).

~Mike...........

clokker

iTrader: (2)

How do you know it's a street car or a radio is installed...the OP mentioned neither.
What about a street car without a radio?

Ted mentioned that the cooler coil temps would be a benefit but for some reason makes getting the wire through the firewall seem like a major project.

Racer, let me ask you...have you relocated your battery? If so, how did you run the positive cable? Would getting the larger, stiffer battery cable safely through the firewall be easier than four smaller, flexible spark plug wires? If so, why?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

" I want to switch from stock to MSD (mainly for look / size reasons of MSD vs OEM)"

Read that again. Need I really say more?

I doubt the wires will be shorter, go out to your car and look (even if there mounted right above the drivers feet, they might be the same length). Your thinking of the plug wires by them selves going through a hole, your forgetting the BIG SPARK PLUG BOOTS too. And my relocated battery has the cable under the car tucked away by the frame rails out of harms way and into the bin, probly smaller then 3/4" hole with a rubber gromment. One 4 to 0 gauge wire is still smaller then four 8mm wires, and again, theres the plug boots to deal with unless your making custom wires, and AGAIN you want them short, so mounting the coil packs close to the spark plug is best, not to mention the side were the factory mounts them doesnt get hot at all. Its the pass side that gets all the heat. So...... what were the benefits to mounting them inside the car again????

BTW, funny hood ornament and to the OP, NICE Elise, CBR and R1

~Mike............

DBookatay

iTrader: (1)

First off it's an idea I was thinking about, strictly for cosmetic reasons. If it would work it would work, if it doesn't it doesn't... I am attempting to go for an ULTRA Clean engine bay, not speed, not hp numbers. (Been there, done that on other builds...)

I'm 95% complete with my wire tuck, and since I have to extend my coil wires I thought this would be an even better way of going one step further. My plan was to mount the packs where the AC evaporator box was, since I removed the box coming from the blower motor, then running the wires either through the fire wall or maybe, possibly near the tranny tunnel...



This is NOT a daily driver, although it will be drivable. The will not be a "radio" in the dash, but there will be a Lilliput screen connected to a "Carputer" mounted in the rear seat wells. I honestly didn't think about the interference issue. How would that affect not only the radio, but the ECU?

Again, this is an idea, I guess than this is not really a feasible idea... Right now I'm looking for ideas, "clean" looks are important...

Thanks for the comments on my toys by the way... (GSXR not CBR / R6 not R1)