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NA vert to TII harness rewiring questions

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Old 12-30-03, 11:40 PM
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Question NA vert to TII harness rewiring questions

I have an 88 vert. and am swapping in a S4 TII motor. I plan to use retain my NA harness/ECU since the one on the motor is cut and my ECU is turbo compatible. From what I have read it seems they are similar but I know there are a few wires I have to alter. What wires do I have to do this to? I figure that most will plug into the same sensors on the TII motor but I know there will be some leftovers and some missing ones. I plan to eliminate twin scroll and use an aftermarket boost gauge but is there anything else to mess with??
Old 12-31-03, 12:02 AM
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BUMP
Old 12-31-03, 01:18 AM
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Just take your UIM off of the turbo motor. Take your harness off your NA motor. Lay it across the turbo motor, note the differences. Plan to extend/shorten/reroute wires as necessary. IT isn't anything that is terribly complex...you compare and adapt. FSM ecu pinout charts (sec's 4A and 4B of the s4 FSM) are valuable here. SHouldnt take more than an hour of fooling around.
Old 01-18-04, 03:10 AM
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So far it seems plug and play with my old NA ECU and harness. The car started and runs good so far. Of course I have an 88 vert. with the ECU that is supposedly TII compatible. The only thing I won't have is twin scroll I guess but some people remove it anyway for some reason.
Old 01-18-04, 08:04 AM
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On a 87 model the differences in pinouts between a turbo and a n/a, were: 1C, 1R, 2K, 1S, and 3D.

1C: Air Bypass relay on a na but Air Bypass Solenoid Valve on a turbo. Different locations.

1R: P/S switch on a na. Port Air Solenoid on a turboii. Duh. Not even related.

2K: Split Air Solenoid Valve on a na. Twin Scroll Turbocharger Solenoid Valve on a turboii. Not quite the same thing and the wires are about three feet apart from each other. But you can relocate the solenoid at will.

3D: Inhibitor switch on a na. Fuel Pump Resistor relay on a turboii. But then you don't need a Fuel Pump Resistor Relay for the car to work and pass emissions or any other reason wothwhile (puts helmet on for the flak that might result from this remark).

Darn. I'm going to have to buy a JSPEC to put in the 86na so that I'll be na free. Free at last, free at last as mlk said.
Old 01-18-04, 08:25 AM
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OOOps. 1R is for the Knock Sensor on a turboii.

Disregard even the mention of 1S, yet another typo.

Pin 1I is and has always been a mystery to me. They seem to be *** backwards from eachother on a na vs a turbo. In fact they are *** backwards.
Old 01-18-04, 08:47 AM
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what the heck is twin scroll?
Old 01-18-04, 09:14 AM
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i just put a s5 turbo 2 in my s5 n/a body...i also used my old harness but got a new ecu from japan (n374) the only thing i had to do is eliminate the boost & knock sensor and i had to extend my tps plug 6 inches...very easy and saved 400 bux....the car has been running strong for about 1 month...i hooked up the boost gauge to the small nipple that had a cap on it coming off of the upper intake i also bought the only 2 block off plates i could get (split valve,air control valve,dont have a egr since i have a jdm)and i didnt hook up any electrical to the tranny(who need reverse lights)lol

good luck
Old 01-18-04, 09:42 AM
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1I is the fifth gear switch.

Reverse switch is not part of the ECU pinout. Gotta have reverse lights in Texas for state inspection.

Twin scroll is for series four turbos. It controls the exaust gas flow area TO the turbo for faster spoolup.

On the Knock Control you just string four wires. One power to the knock control box, one to the knock sensor, one to the ground and one to the ECU pin 1R.

And I had to lengthen the tps wires a touch.
Old 01-18-04, 10:56 AM
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Originally posted by HAILERS
1I is the fifth gear switch.

Reverse switch is not part of the ECU pinout. Gotta have reverse lights in Texas for state inspection.

Twin scroll is for series four turbos. It controls the exaust gas flow area TO the turbo for faster spoolup.

On the Knock Control you just string four wires. One power to the knock control box, one to the knock sensor, one to the ground and one to the ECU pin 1R.

And I had to lengthen the tps wires a touch.
I am still a bit baffled on the wires and such, My main concern is the vacuum hoses right now. the two cars (NA & TII), seem to have almost nothing in common with regards to the vacuum spider or connections. Furthermore, the FSM is a joke, the photos of the vacuum runs are blurred together and even the way they describe the NA from the TII seems like two different people designed those sections of the book. Right now the car starts right up, surges at the 3k mark from the cold start-up signal, then runs like crap at anything below 2500 rpms. and will not idle at all. It seems like a have a BIG vacuum leak or something.
Also is the big vacuum hose coming from the intermediate housing by the dipstick supposed to go to the purge valve? That is where the old hose seemed to want to go. I would LOVE to see good pics of a stock TII vacuum spider area on the drivers side *hint*hint*. The only other thing to note is that the air pump, and ACV is not hooked up to anything. The big hoses were all chopped when I got the motor but I plugged off all of them (3 I think), I do however have the little vacuum hoses hooked up to it since I am trying to start as stock as possible to get the car running right then eliminate one thing at a time and see the results.

Any ideas??.. or pictures of your hoses?
Old 01-19-04, 11:09 AM
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I see on the other thread that someone else wrote about the Purge Valve that you found your vacuum leak. That was a unique way of finding a leak You also seem to have figured out the Purge lines and where they go.

About a series four pic/diagram of the vacuum lines.....I've never ever seen a series four picture that does not blurr the lines where you can't see where what goes where.

The Blue solenoid is the Relief solenoid. BOTH of its hose go to the ACV. One at the very bottom...the other on a nipple sticking straight out towards the fender and located about halfway down the acv and towards the right of the acv if you are looking straight at it.

The Grey Solenoid is the Switching solenoid. It also goes to the ACV. It goes to the metal nipple that sticks straingt up in the air on the acv. OH...the nipple on the Grey valve that goes there is the one closer to the centerline of the engine NOT the outboard nipple on that solenoid/valve. Make sense?

The ORange one is for the Fuel Pressure Regulator located on the fuel rail. Again it's the inboard nipple on that solenoid that goes to the FPR.

Yellow is for the EGR. The EGR is located on the back of the throttle body/intake manifold. Again its the inboard nipple on the solenoid valve that goes there.

There is a Green solenid valve. Its for the Twin Scroll switching actuator on the bottom of the turbo. There should be a realllllllll realllllll long metal pipe coming off the switching actuator on the turbo ....and that is where the Green Solenoids pipe leads to. Make sense?????

For me.........The best way of finding out where the pipes end up, is to light up a cigar and blow into the pipes at the solenoids one at a time and see where the smoke exits. It also helps to know just what each solenoid is dedicated to. Like the Blue for the relief solenoid, grey for the switching solenoid, the green for the twin scroll and on and on.
Old 01-19-04, 11:27 AM
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Originally posted by HAILERS
IFor me.........The best way of finding out where the pipes end up, is to light up a cigar and blow into the pipes at the solenoids one at a time and see where the smoke exits. It also helps to know just what each solenoid is dedicated to. Like the Blue for the relief solenoid, grey for the switching solenoid, the green for the twin scroll and on and on.
yeah, on the motor I just did I got colored vac line, and used blue with blue soleniod, orange with orange, etc

Made it a bit bright under the hood, but makes it 100% easier to troubleshoot.
Old 01-19-04, 11:37 AM
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That is what I thought would be nice but where do you get multi colored vacuum line from?

John
Old 01-19-04, 11:39 AM
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Originally posted by HAILERS
I see on the other thread that someone else wrote about the Purge Valve that you found your vacuum leak. That was a unique way of finding a leak You also seem to have figured out the Purge lines and where they go.

Thanks for the help, I think I am going to ditch the ACV since I don't have the airpump hooked up anyway. That should leave me with nothing except the orange one and possibly the green if I can make the twin scroll work on a NA harness.
Old 01-19-04, 11:41 AM
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Originally posted by JonEQuest
That is what I thought would be nice but where do you get multi colored vacuum line from?

John
Ebay
Old 01-19-04, 11:42 AM
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Originally posted by Icemark
yeah, on the motor I just did I got colored vac line, and used blue with blue soleniod, orange with orange, etc

Made it a bit bright under the hood, but makes it 100% easier to troubleshoot.
What do you think about trying to hook up a twin scroll solenoid on my car. I am using the original harness and ECU but it is the odd 88 vert. that seems to be compatible. I read that the split air pipe trigger takes the place of the Twin scroll on the NA version. Could I use some split pipe wires to trigger the twin scroll somehow?

John
Old 01-19-04, 11:44 AM
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yeah, that is what I did when I had the turbo motor, but I had to extend the wires slightly
Old 01-19-04, 01:08 PM
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cool, is it a solenoid or just wires that ran to the ACV? Either way I will have some extra solenoids around.
Old 01-26-04, 10:18 AM
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IT IS ALIVE!!!! and well.

UPDATE, the car runs great now so I guess I am yet another who falls into the category of happy Jspec owners who DID NOT have to rebuild the engine. It is funny how most of the people who dog Jspecs have never bought one themselves.

Thanks to everyone who answered my questions and helped me out.
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