bigdongsr94

Having trouble finding any links for using an NA s4 harness with a s4 TII motor? is it possible?

kel

I would think that it would be too much of a PIA to try to make it work. The TII has an extra solenoid valve and the matching ones are not in the same place. Plus, there are more sensors on the TII engine which you'd have to manually wire.

The TII harness comes up on eBay regularly. I bought one for $45 a few months ago. I plan on using it as a pattern to make a complete new harness for my car.

Here's one that's kinda expensive:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46098

I don't think he'll get the price, so you could watch for it to be re-posted - or contact him after the auction and offer something more reasonable.

Here's one which is a little better priced:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46098


Anyway, if you're patient, what you need will show up.


- k -

MARTIN

this has been dicussed many many times. I have even written a thread on it, and replied to numerous threads regarding this question. Its easy, usually better if you use same series wiring harness. Better yet is to block off everything or certain things... I personally use n/a wireharness up to my haltec install.

bigdongsr94

i do electronics and wiring from schematics all the time and was thinkin of doin it myself but i didnt know they were so available on ebay. i guess ill prob just do that. thanks kel

HAILERS

Putting a turboii in a non turbo car and using the non turbo harness is a piece of cake. You compare the ECU inputs/outputs from the fsm for both the non turbo and turbo and make the adjustments.

It's pins 1C, 1R, 1S, 2K, and 3D

3D is for the fuel pump resistor relay on a turboII. It's only used on a non turbo if there is a automatic transmission. If you don't install a fuel pump resistor relay from a turboii then you don't need to do squat for that one of five wires.

1C is the air bypass relay on a non turbo and its for the air bypass solenoid on a turbo. Same function. Just run the wire from the relay where it is on a non turbo to the air bypass solenoid on the turbo's intake manifold. It''s only used during cold start so you could just forget this wire if you wanted to. Common sense. I ran it though so I guess I lack common sense (humor).

1R is for power steering switch on a non turbo. On a turbo it goes to the KnOCK control sensor from the ECU. Run a wire is what I did. Single wire. I ran for about a half year with no knock sensor and no wire run. I can't tell the diff. I put it on for safety I think. Got me.

1S, MY FAVORITE WIRE. It is NOT functional after the first 20,000 miles of the car. Guess what action I took. The Port air solenoid is on the acv. Front solenoid.

2K is for the Twin Scroll Solenoid on a turbo. ON a non turbo its for the Split Air solenoid. Split air solenoid is the aft solenoid on the acv. I'm retarded. My new turbo engine had the solenoid on the rack so I just ran a wire from the split air solenoids connector to the other side of the engine and was done. Whee. Rough work.

I did buy a stock knock sensor which on a series four is NOT internal to the ECU so you install a box and run a pwr wire to it, then a wire from it to pin 1R (sorry, a mistake I made earlier, the wire from the sensor goes to Knock unit), and one ground wire. Real tough job(humor). Gotta go

bigdongsr94

i will run a knock box so 1r is necessary but im not running emissions or anything unnessesary like cold start so i think the only other wire in question is 2k i dont understand the split air solenoid or twin scroll solenoid to i need these?

HAILERS

A series four turboii came with a VACUUM operated twin scroll system. In the whole, it consists of a vacuum canister attached to the turbo. This vacuum comes and goes at 2800rpm and gets its vacuum from a common RX-7 type solenoid that is usually located near the oil filler pipe on a turboii.

Now if you elect, you can not connect the solenoid or a vacuum line to the turbo canister. The *flap* that the canister operates goes to the full open position when there is no vacuum etc going to it. So what I'm saying is, is that you can do without this item until you get the engine up and running and later decide if you want to have a operable twin scroll system. Just disregard it for now.

I was in a hurry when I posted earlier. I forgot something. The TPS harness needs to be lengthened about a foot to a foot and a half due to the different location on the turbo intake. Now its just three wires and your method of making the three wires longer. Splice in three wires seems the obvious way.

The air control valve has TWO solenoids screwed into it. One is called a Split Air Solenoid. It is the rear of the two solenoids. Its harness is about two feet long. That end of that harness is where you would lengthen two wires to go to a common RX-7 solenoid and would be called the twin scroll solenoid.

One needs to have a factory service manual handy and printed out to do this job. Just the FUEL SECTION would do the job. Not the full manual. It's a free download or manuals can be bought from Mazdatrix.com or EBAY.