skatingsamurai

alright i looked on RR's website to look to see what i needed. im swapping the WHOLE drivetrain into my vert. it says i need a turbo slave cylinder. and someone elaborate? is there anyway i can use the NA one? thanks

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

NA plunger is wrong size. You need the TII slave.

NZConvertible

Actually the whole casting is different. It locates the plunger in the wrong place. I found that out when I was sold the wrong one. Twice...

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

You can lead them to water, but you can't make them drink...

Right above the writeup you mention, is the very clarification you seek:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...in_differ.html

skatingsamurai

could you please clarify further, the electrical part? im swapping the whole drivetrain so im using the turbo ecu...please explain in detail if someone could, what i have to do for rewiring the alternator. i dont know what im doing when it comes to rewiring things.

also. the gas lines. i heard that they are in different positions in the na chassis? which hose goes on which line?

thanks
steve

iceblue

Use the NA harness not the TII harness and the ALT is fine. On JDM engines the FPR is on the P rail and on USDM they are on the S rail.

skatingsamurai

yeah, but i have to use the t2 ecu becuase its an rtek. plus the engine is already in the car, so i would much rather run a couple wires then take off the damn UIM and **** with the harness...also. i need a very clear explanation about this. do I, or do i NOT have to wire in resistor packs for my injectors...its an 88 vert, with an 87 t2 motor and harness. if so please let me know so i can search...or just send a link my way : D

thanks everyone. ill take all the help i can get.

iceblue

Like I said just use the NA harness and the cutoff date was 87.5 square slit for low imp

skatingsamurai

sqare slit? you mean for the injectors? they are like a rectangle connector but i dont know if thats what your saying. but ill say it once more...im not going to use the engine harness from the N/A. do you mean the engine BAY harness from the N/A? besides. there is no connector for the knock box in the engine harness for the N/A, and dont i need that?

and how do i find out what date, my rx7 was made?

skatingsamurai

You have to run 2 wires from the back of the alternator inside the cabin by the ecu. Compare your old NA wiring harness and trace the wires that used to be at the alternator back to the plug they ended at (one of the 2 large orange ones inside the car). These are black and white wires. Now compare these pin positions with the current harness. Cut (or remove and re-pin) whatever wires are presently there (theyre not doing anything important) and splice in your 2 newly run wires. Be sure to cut and insulate those old wires, so you're not backfeeding through some other circuit. This keeps all your idiot lights from staying on all the time (this is normally an indication of a failed alternator, and the car thinks it has failed because the wiring was missing).

You also have to run 1 wire about 6 inches. On your old NA harness, find the yellow/red temp sensor wire that went under the oil filter. Now find it's pinout position on the orange plug that was inside the car. Compare this to the turbo harness' plug. Now trace the same wire on the turbo harness in the car. Cut or re-pin that wire on the *engine side* of the turbo harness, and jumper it over to the wire that is in the pin position the old NA harness had the wire at. Be sure to cut this old wire and insulate it to prevent backfeeding through that circuit. Now your dash temperature gauge will work like stock.

from RR's site. please help me with this! AHH lol. is there a diagram anywhere? that would help so much.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

how can it get any simpler? If you have both harnesses in front of you, and you read off what I just wrote, it is pretty obvious what needs to be done. You can also remove and repin the wires in question rather than cut and splice, but most people don't have the skill for getting the pins out of the plugs.

skatingsamurai

alright, i did some research. the wires that i am suppost to cut ( on the NA chassis harness, inside the cabin) are the plugs that are BR and BrB. these plug run to the pressure sensor. when i splice the new wires in to the wiring harness for the alternator, the old wires that go to the pressure sensor will no longer be connected leaving me in question as what to do with the pressure sensor wires

iceblue

You made this way more difficult and hacked up. :-(

Besides the knock sensor on OEM ECU is pointless its not even used what is it above 1,200rpm, allot of good that does and it pulls timing whole 5deg

MidnightOwl

I followed the instructions on Kevin's site and it worked for me, pretty straightforward. I think I had to rewire like 4 wires to get it to work. And my N/A slave bolted right on to my turbo tranny, and works, I have no idea how I pulled that one off. It just bolted on.

HAILERS

You don't cut any wires on the stock non turbo FRONT harness side of the plug.

You cut two wires on the turbo EMISSIONS harness plug that mates with the non turbo FRONT harness.

One wire is brown/red and the other is brown/black or possibly pure black. Both these wires were meant for the turbo cars BOOST GAUGE. You must make sure the brown/red wire, after being cut, is covered on it's bare end so it won't short out the boost pressure sensors signal to the ECU. Shrink tubing will do or elect tape.

Your confusing things a bit. Please refer to a wire as a wire and not a plug. The plug your working on should have fifteen sockets in it or fifteen wires if you will.

And about the clutch slave cylinder. A non turbo one will do but you have to shorten the rod. God made Makita grinders for that and hacksaws. Then again, I can buy NEW clutch slave cylinders with the rod, for less than fifty bucks at Steves Foreign Auto Parts alll day long.

Bottom line is that you should have used the stock non turbo harness in your swap to make life easier. You'd have had a alternator plug plus your water temp sensor would have worked with no problem, unlike the harness swap your doing now.

HAILERS

Actually, it's two plugs you should be *messing* with. I'm attaching a couple of jpgs of them and what MOST of the wires do in life. I didn't proof check any of it and free advice is free advice. Take it or leave it.

The legend (sp?) for the plugs shows that a wire with ( ) around it means that is a wire for TURBO cars. No ( ) means it's common to turbo/non turbo.

The jpgs are labled turbo or non turbo if you hold your cursor over each picture. The TURBO jpgs show what each ( ) does in life for a turbo.

I like putting mud in the water.

skatingsamurai

hailers, i cant thank you enough. i am however, going to have to ask you to please please please go one step further with this. i have been up for about 36 hours, and im running out of time here, could you please just dumb it down to the point of retardation here? im on my last wire. (pun intended)

HAILERS

Those two wires you cut at the plug BrR and BrB just get capped off and tied to the harness.

The pressure sensor has another BrR wire that goes to the ECU, so don't worry about signal from the pressure sensor to the ECU.

Or how 'bout this: You cut the BrR and BrB wire about three inches or more from the plug. The short piece of the wire that is left in the plug will then get a new piece of wire attached to it and be run to the alternator. Actually two new pieces of wire. One for the BrR and one for the BrB wire.

Which of the new wires goes to which terminal on the small plug at the alternator................is something I can't say right now because I've no manual with me right now. The one that will be acttached to the BrB will be to the idiot lights relay and the one that is attached to the BrR will be switched 12vdc power to the small plug on the Alt.

skatingsamurai

alrighty, i have everything hooked up. but its not starting. its cranking but not starting. im going to restab the CAS just incase...but its just cranking and i occasionaly hear sort of a clunk noise. when i swapped the turbo harness. i also took over that little aluminum thingy that bolts infront of the passenger side wheel well. its has an oval like connector but flat pins. what is this and should it be in the car?

i cut the wires as mentioned above for the alternator and spliced them. and i also, fixed the temp switch. are you suuuuure that nothing happens to the boost sensor when you splice the alt wires in? im tryin to think of why its not starting. i have fuel. i pulled out the hose and tested to see if it flowed by bridging the Fuel diagnostics connector.and it worked. ill check to see if i have spark. and im sure i have air because the turbo is a knightsports hybrid.

any ideas?

skatingsamurai

bump. so if i am cutting the some of the wires from the boost sensor to adjust for the ALT. what is the boost sensor doing?? all its doing is cranking. the plugs are wet. i have compression. can i try using the CAS of the NA maybe??? any other weird electrical things that can keep the car from starting?

HAILERS

i also took over that little aluminum thingy that bolts infront of the passenger side wheel well. its has an oval like connector but flat pins. what is this and should it be in the car?
************************************************** **************
That sounds like the Solenoid Resistor Package for a early 1987 car that used low impedence injectors. It fed the fuel injectors the 12vdc for them to work.

Stop wearing your engine out for the time being. Try something new. Get that spare CAS you own, and attach it to the electrical plug on the engine (remove the plug off the cas that's now in the car). Don't actually install that spare CAS. Just attach the electrical plug.

What you can do with this CAS, is to find out if you have spark and fuel injector activity without wearing out the starter and spinning the engine. First just pull a plug off one of the LEAD sparkplugs and hold it near one of the strut tower bolts. Turn the key ON. Just to ON, not start.

Now just spin the bottom gear on the cas and see if you have spark at the sparkplug you just pulled off. You should. The spinning does not have to be super fast , just spin it fairly rapidly. You should have spark. No spark? You need to find out why.

That takes care of spark. Now fuel injectors clicking or not. first pull the small elect plugs off the Lead and Trail coils so the sparkplugs won't make any noise when you spin the CAS bottom gear. Spin the CAS bottom gear rapidly. You should be able to hear the Primary fuel injectors clicking. No click?? YOu need to find out why there's no power going to them.

HERE'S the deal on the boost sensor brown/red output wire. It leaves the elect plug at the boost sensor and goes directly to the ECU's pin 2B. BUT, somewhere inbetween those two places, there is another brown/red wire spliced on to that one. IT goes to the plug where you just cut a brown/red wire. The signal to the ECU should not have been interrupted by cutting that wire at the plug. Especially if you deadended that cut wire with a piece of electrical tape so it would not short to gnd.

The other wire you cut was brown/black. It is/was a gnd wire for the sensors in the engine bay and also the gnd wire for the non existent boost GAUGE for a turbo car. No harm can come by this wires cut end touching ground. After all, it's a gnd wire.

You NEED to do the thing mentioned above using a spare CAS. It will determine if you have spark and IF the fuel injectors are getting power or not. It saves wear and tear on a engine in that you don't have to spin the starter or drag the battery voltage down doing this. Fingers are tired. DONE.

HAILERS

And by the way, the car will START without the boost sensor connected and will start without the AFM plug connected. It will only run for seconds if the afm is disconnected, BUT it is NOT needed (elec plug on afm) just for STARTING. Starting, as in *varooom* for a second or two.

Another thing, look and make sure the ENGINE fuse in the interior fuse box is good. It controls the power for fuel and spark via the Main Relay.

skatingsamurai

well first thing, i started a new thread that seems a litte more on topic, so please respond on that one, i may have repeated my self at the begining of that one.

but to respond to hailers. i checked if i have spark and fuel the archaic way. but i still checked. i pull all the plugs, grounded, started, and all had spark (not at the same time). i checked to see if i had pwer to the fuel pump via the bridged pump connector. and since everytime i would crank the engine, and pull a plug, it would be DRENCHED in fuel. fuel is CHECK.

"signal to the ECU should not have been interrupted by cutting that wire at the plug"

do you mean plug right near the boost sensor, right near the ecu? all the wires i cut were DOWN , right by the ecu. completely intecepting the wire. should i have the boost sensor wires right up near the boost sensor? but i do get what your saying. that STILL should have no bearing on the car starting for at least a second or two...i if dies after start up, i might know where to look first.

skatingsamurai

**** this ****.

im just going to swap out the t2 harness with the NA harness...now heres my question. Do i have to do ANYTHING to this harness? by anything i mean absolutely ANYTHING. because its not going to have a clip for the injector resistor.

heres the setup

t2 drivetrain
t2 engine.
t2 injectors
t2 ecu

why, oh why did i have to be stuborn and insist on using the t2 harness?!?!

HAILERS

The brown/red and the brown/black wires they are trying to get you to cut, are in a plug inside the passengers well. The plug has fifteen sockets/wires in it. That plug is a part of the harness that attaches to the engine. That harness is called the EM harness.

That fifteen wire plug MATES with a plug on the FRONT harness. You do not cut the wires in the Front side of the plug. You cut the two wires in the EM side of the plug.

That plug if memory serves is in the upper right hand corner of the passengers foot well. You cut those two wires about three or so inchec from the fifteen wire plug and deadend the part of those wires that are now not attached to the plug (you cut 'em in two). You attach two new wires to those two wires that are still in the fifteen wire plug.