NA to T2 conversion
#1
NA to T2 conversion
I'm really thinking of doing a TII conversion in my 86 FC. I found almost every parts for a good price. I can have a jspec s4 or s5. But this doesn't include the ecu and the wiring harness. I have read a lots on TII conversion, but i still have some question.
My plan are to rebuild the engine and do a streetport while i'm in it. I will also put a downpipe and maybe a catback. I will pull out cats too. I would like to have some suggestions on what to do with the ecu.
Which engine do you suggest for my 86 FC, the s4 or s5 ?
Thanks
Alex
My plan are to rebuild the engine and do a streetport while i'm in it. I will also put a downpipe and maybe a catback. I will pull out cats too. I would like to have some suggestions on what to do with the ecu.
Which engine do you suggest for my 86 FC, the s4 or s5 ?
Thanks
Alex
#2
I Post In The Nude
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Stick with a series 4, it will make things a lot less complicated as the s4 tII ecu will plug right into your harness, and you can keep all your wiring and what not. For the ecu get a s4 TII ecu.
#5
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I have every thing you need to do a turbo swap in to your 86.
The engine was rebuilt 700 miles ago, but blew a coolant seal, so you would have to buy an O-ring kit for it. And it has been gorilla ported (pretty much a bridge port if not bigger), and it has a 4 puck clutch and a street/strip pressure plate. And the tranny has 130,000 miles on it, it also comes with an ECU, and wireing harness (6 plugs are broken, 4 are essential, and must be fixed, but can be purchased from summit raceing), fuel cut definder (from mazdatrix), greddy full auto turbo timer, TII driveshaft, and the S4 turbo needs to be replaced because all but 2 of the exhaust fins are missing chuncks.
If you are interested PM me, and I will give you a price, and more details.
The engine was rebuilt 700 miles ago, but blew a coolant seal, so you would have to buy an O-ring kit for it. And it has been gorilla ported (pretty much a bridge port if not bigger), and it has a 4 puck clutch and a street/strip pressure plate. And the tranny has 130,000 miles on it, it also comes with an ECU, and wireing harness (6 plugs are broken, 4 are essential, and must be fixed, but can be purchased from summit raceing), fuel cut definder (from mazdatrix), greddy full auto turbo timer, TII driveshaft, and the S4 turbo needs to be replaced because all but 2 of the exhaust fins are missing chuncks.
If you are interested PM me, and I will give you a price, and more details.
#7
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
How much boost are you planning to run? What you need to upgrade is relative to how fast you want to go.
It is a good precaution to get bigger injectors and it also provides a good base for future mods.
It is a good precaution to get bigger injectors and it also provides a good base for future mods.
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#8
I would like to run 10 psi, but i guess i will need to go standalone and it's not cheap. If going standalone is the only way i think i will keep the boost to 7-8 psi with a boost controller.
Is there another way to run 10 psi without going standalone ? Is there cheaper standalone than haltech or LT-8 ?
I know to run 10 psi, i will need bigger injectors but if i run 7-8 psi with a walbro fuel pump, will i need bigger injector ?
I really don't want to play with the life of the engine.
Thanks
Is there another way to run 10 psi without going standalone ? Is there cheaper standalone than haltech or LT-8 ?
I know to run 10 psi, i will need bigger injectors but if i run 7-8 psi with a walbro fuel pump, will i need bigger injector ?
I really don't want to play with the life of the engine.
Thanks
#9
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You don't need a stadalone to run 10 PSI.
And I dought you need to upgrade your fuel pump at 10 PSI either, but I am not sure on that one, although I have heard that the stock fuel pump will suport 300 HP (I can't remember were)
And I dought you need to upgrade your fuel pump at 10 PSI either, but I am not sure on that one, although I have heard that the stock fuel pump will suport 300 HP (I can't remember were)
#15
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I have read bad thing on FCD. What do you think ?
How could it be bad???
It stops fuel cut, and that means your rear rotor won't be running incredibaly lean, and there for saving your motor. That is if you boost over 8.5 PSI.
#17
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Originally posted by FD3S_wanted
...Is there another way to run 10 psi without going standalone ? Is there cheaper standalone than haltech or LT-8 ?...
Thanks
...Is there another way to run 10 psi without going standalone ? Is there cheaper standalone than haltech or LT-8 ?...
Thanks
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