MLC

Ok I am new here and new to the RX7 but not to cars or HP. I just bought a 89 rx7 vert and wanted to know what you guys thought of what I was going to do to her. Here goes :
1 MSD Blaster ss coil
2 HKS Super Fire Spark Plugs Rtry Iridium Heat range "9"
3 MSD Super Cndctr Ign Wires "Red"
4 U-Dox Ultra-S Pulley "Red"
5 Super Catalytic Converter Universal Hi Flow for up to 7.5 Liters (3" in 3" out)
6 Jet Performance Control Module
7 Custom Cold Air intake
8 Plished Heat shield
9 Cherry Bomb (3" in 3" out, Whole exhust system 3")
10 Pacesetter Exhaust Headers (2" tubing 2 1/2 "Collector then to custom Down pipe and upped to #" all the way out twin #" Pipes )

Well thats it. Cost about 1200.00 but worth every bit. So what do you guys and gals think? Any suggestions would be greatly welcome

gerbraldy

save up another $1000 and drop a 13bt in it If you want a car that can get into traffic than those mods are perfect, but if you want something fast your either gonna need a port job or a turbo setup.

skir2222

13bt

oakback

Has anyone had anything good to say about the pacesetter header?

MLC

I kinda wanted to stay the NA route (Trying to be different) lol So The Port Job sounds Good. I believe some did a write up on it. Ill have to check it out. What do you guys think of a 35 to 50 hp shot of NOS. I call it the big bang theory lol

88IntegraLS

I wouldn't waste money on ignition mods unless you have a turbo car running a ton of boost. Better to spend that money on an SAFC or full exhaust system.

FC or S13

I hate pacesetter... I had them on my last car and it listed my car as a set up for it, but apparently it was just some generic *** header. I had to get it modded for the O2 senser and all sorts of crap...

cps87rx7se

iTrader: (4)

From what I have read and heard, do not get the Pacesetter header. Save up some more money and get a Racing Beat header.

Alex-7

A six port 'vert w/ignition wires and a polished heat sheild should hang with a stock t2

Whizbang

allow me to save money on things that wont make a difference.

1 MSD Blaster ss coil
2 HKS Super Fire Spark Plugs Rtry Iridium Heat range "9"
3. wires you mentioned
4 udox pulley set

the above is not going to be worth the time. The stock coils are damn powerful and there is no need to buy a MSD coil which wont make any difference. The NGK plugs you can buy will work fine for any application that you will find yourself running. And seeing rotaries eat plugs, youll be saving mucho money seeing NGKs are cheaper, just as good, and availble from any parts store. also the plug wires not worth it either. factory NGKs will work fine for anything youll be throwing at it.
the pulleys are not going to make any difference either. i had an underdrive pulley. the only thing it did was slightly increase my water temps, cause a few electrical problems from underdrivng the alt, which on an FC is already not good normally, and make serious squealing. so dont bother with that.

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5 Super Catalytic Converter Universal Hi Flow for up to 7.5 Liters (3" in 3" out)
10 Pacesetter Exhaust Headers (2" tubing 2 1/2 "Collector then to custom Down pipe and upped to #" all the way out twin #" Pipes )
Custom Cold Air intake
Heat shield

i dont know what the Jet module is. but otherwise focusing on a good exhaust and intake system is smart. Personally, i would go with a RB header instead of the paceheader version. also, thermowrap the thing. underhood temps will drop alot. You dont need a CAI as much as a filter box that will isolate the filter in the engine bay. CAI just put the filter in a place where more dirt will be present.


with the money saved from not buying the worthless crap, i would get a MSD 6a for the leading coil, much nicer running, fuel economy, idle, starting, etc. etc. etc. its good. more than likely half the reason my TII actually starts. Also, i suggest getting a FD alternator and harness plug, then wire that in instead of the FC alt. 140 amps to 40 amps. big difference. also, regrounding the car wouldnt hurt performance. you can search for that easy enough on how to do it yourself. dont buy a "package" to do it.

it being a convertible it is still going to be heavy so just keep that in mind. with out porting, or serious us of grinding tools, there isnt much else i would recommend. If you want serious power, then the TII swap is the next logical step, but does require money and time.

Icemark

well just throw out 1, 3, 4, as there will be only minimal gains (if any) and just a big waste of money. If you have it in your head that you really want to try and get ignition gains, then a CDI is all you would need, and not some lame plug wires, and multiple coils (you do know that you would need two coils or a dual output coil just for the leading, and another two if you wanted to do the trailing.

But unless you plan on spending a bunch of time above 6000 RPM, there is no real reason to mess with the stock system. Just put a set of NGK or Jacobs spark plug wires on, and you would be fine. Like wise the Iridium plugs won't give you any power without a CDI.

not sure what you mean by #8

#9 will last about a week on a non turbo, so again, it would be a waste of money and time.

#10 pacesetter headers are okay for use if you are too cheap to get real headers, but they won't last particularly long, and your system would be radically loud.

Most of your ideas here are really not rotary oriented, but rather ricer racer oriented. You may wish to do some more research on how rotary's work, and understand that the biggest gains will come from air flow through the motor and that the exhaust of a rotary motor is about 3 times the temp as comparied to a piston motor

RX-Heven

iTrader: (1)

Verts are overweight pigs. They can't be made fast in n/a form imho unless you put the car on a drastic diet and pump lots of go-fast into it and you'd still be lucky to break into the 14's. You could spend tons of time and money and still have bloated station wagons (SUV's), hondas and other family cars spank you all day. Not worth it. N/A verts make great cruisers and are fun to drive, but that's it.

Save your money and find a TII parts car for a swap...then you have the potential to have a fast car if that is what you want.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Not to mention, 3" exhaust is a bit excessive for a n/a.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

jet control module ..chip for inside the ECU...piggy back an Apexi SAFC-II to the ecu,wide band O2..better ... all through research on this forum..good luck with your car

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Just search for any "beefy" NA. I still think a vert can be a fun car if given the chance. Being fast is one thing, having a "fun" car is another.

I say:

Custom cold air intake with a quality filter (search CAI and cold air box)

Full quality exhaust: RacingBeat is what alot of people here swear by and sort of the standard. Its a good product that tuned. If you need to stay emissions legal go to http://www.rx7.com and get the RB Header/Bonez High-flo combintion, if not, just use their preilsencer. For a cat-back I suggest dual, single looks ok on a vert imho, but a dual is always better. From that I recommend Borla, Apexi, RacingBeat, or Dynomax.

Buy a SAFC II from Apex (sold anywhere that has aftermarket automotive parts) and a wideband (AEM or Zeitronix) and get a tune. Considering NA's run super rich in the high R's. After that (if you want) do weight reduction.

Spare/Jack (that one is up to you)
PS, AC, leave the emissions intact if you need them
Lighter seats (if you want)
New Flywheel (performance and **** also)
Search for parts weights. Skimming off 100-200lbs will help alot with the car.

If you want a good ignition there are a few options, but just get a CDI box (MSD, Jacobs, Crane).

For nitrous:

Get a new fuel pump, nitrous needs fuel.
Fuel pressure regulator to tune it.
Nitrous pressure gauge (at least so you know)
The actual kit (duh)
And a purge, to clear the unwanted vapors

That should be good for up to a 75 shot (the farthest I've been told to go with stock ignition).

But then after that the clutch may get bad. So a new clutch and flywheel will be needed.

If after that you still need more HP. Port the engine (efficient port such as Kahrens), then come back to us.

That should be enough to keep you busy .

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Also changing the gear ratio from a 3.90 to a 4.30 or even a 4.10 LSD may have good consiquences.

MLC

OK cool. I am starting with theExhaust and intake and want the ignition to be great because I will be over 6k(RPM) I don't want another turbo Rx7 and I am not trying to break any records but id like to get about 230 hp from her with nos and Exhaust and intake and a tough ignition system and tuning I am sure I can get it Thxs for the help all. Ill keep you up dated and ill get some pics as I go. Also I'll get it dyno tuned and ill show all a copy

Whizbang

nirtrous systems are going to take years off your cars life.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

OMG bitch go n00b.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

From Scathrats writeup:

Nitrous itself will not increase the wear on your engine. As with any increase in horsepower, however, they will come some extra wear and tear on your engine. This is increase in wear would be the same no matter where it comes from. In fact, one of the advantages of nitrous oxide is that you only use it when you want, and thus, only put strain on the engine when you feel it is necessary. Nitrous itself will not increase the wear on your engine. As with any increase in horsepower, however, they will come some extra wear and tear on your engine. This is increase in wear would be the same no matter where it comes from. In fact, one of the advantages of nitrous oxide is that you only use it when you want, and thus, only put strain on the engine when you feel it is necessary.