View Poll Results: How do you launch?
4k-5k clutch drop
41
26.97%
4k-5k clutch slip
69
45.39%
6k-7k clutch drop
13
8.55%
6k-7k clutch slip
17
11.18%
Other
12
7.89%
Voters: 152. You may not vote on this poll
NA Launch Technique
12-27-03, 08:56 PM
#51
Senior Member
**** MAN, if you slip it right, practice ****** dumping that **** from nice and high, i usually launch from 51/2 - 6000, but with a nice slip, dont just drop it... i get some spin, but with nice rubber it just halls off the line. keep your revs about 4000 or you will Bog hard
12-27-03, 11:44 PM
#52
truespin, not tirespin
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Belpre, Ohio
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Logically the bog/burn point would be roughly when the 6ths kick in. So a launch from 3-4k should (now this is based on thought) kick you off the line before the 6ths, but you would very rapidly be opening them for the run. As for shifting, I've found that the car has good accel anywhere from 4500 to about 6500. At least that's my car, my stock s4 na.
12-28-03, 12:05 AM
#53
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Caldwell,ID
Posts: 968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Fikshun
I don't think stripping the interior in hopes of dropping 1 to 1.5 seconds is very realistic, but good luck anyways.
If you go by the general equation of 100 lbs. is .1 second, you will need to drop 1000 to 1500 lbs. to lower your times that much.
fikshun
I don't think stripping the interior in hopes of dropping 1 to 1.5 seconds is very realistic, but good luck anyways.
If you go by the general equation of 100 lbs. is .1 second, you will need to drop 1000 to 1500 lbs. to lower your times that much.
fikshun
just want to get this straight
so if I remove 2400lbs of my car which should make it about 300lbs
I would only runabout a 14 flat at that point?
I figured with sub bike weights and about the same if not a tad more then some I would be able to run better then just 14's
12-28-03, 12:08 AM
#54
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Caldwell,ID
Posts: 968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by wackyracer
get rid of the aluminum flywheel. Use a heavier flywheel and pressure plate. This will allow you to launch it at lower RPM without the engine bogging. If your using street tires, drop your tire pressure to 15psi for better traction.
get rid of the aluminum flywheel. Use a heavier flywheel and pressure plate. This will allow you to launch it at lower RPM without the engine bogging. If your using street tires, drop your tire pressure to 15psi for better traction.
if you lower the pressure too far on street tires grip actually will suffer
and I would venture to say that 15 psi is going to be a little low
when the tires get low of air pressure the inside tends not to put as much weight on the ground which will leave the outer edges of the tires with the most weight
not good
you want the whole tread width to have even weight on the ground which would give more grip
12-28-03, 12:26 AM
#55
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: fl
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont know why you people can say wired 6 ports and vdi will slow you down in the 1/4. if youre doing it right your engine should never drop below 5k (ok on an s5) during both the shifts and launch. hell wired vdi could even HELP because you wont have to wait for it to come back on if you drop below 5300 which can hapen on the 1-2 shift if you dont stay in it all the way to redline and then some
12-28-03, 07:53 PM
#57
Poor Lil' Kid
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wilmington NC
Posts: 1,504
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Project84
To help your reaction time (I know you posted about RPMs, but...) I will tell you something my pops told me a long time ago. When you stage, don't look directly at the lights. Look down the track at the finish line and watch the lights out of your periphrial vision. Humans react to motion in there periphrial vision a lot faster then if its in your direct line of sight, especially at night since human sight is based on motion and is attracted to light. He taught me this when I we went to Englishtown NJ to the NHRA summer nationals. They had a reaction time machine where you sat side by side and held the steering wheel. The tree was out front and you held the red button (simulating a brake line lock) to set the stage light. When the tree lit up, you had to hit the gas. My R/T was terrible because I was looking at the light. He told me to look straight ahead and don't focus on the light and it worked a lot better.
The very best thing to help R/T is consistency. Stage in the same place, launch at the same RPMs and work the pedals the exact same way each and every time. And don't wait until you see green. If you are still sitting still when you see green, its too late. .724 isn't too bad for your first outing so I don't think you are waiting too long, but these are things you will want to keep in the back of your mind. Have fun and don't be discouraged. You will only get better.
To help your reaction time (I know you posted about RPMs, but...) I will tell you something my pops told me a long time ago. When you stage, don't look directly at the lights. Look down the track at the finish line and watch the lights out of your periphrial vision. Humans react to motion in there periphrial vision a lot faster then if its in your direct line of sight, especially at night since human sight is based on motion and is attracted to light. He taught me this when I we went to Englishtown NJ to the NHRA summer nationals. They had a reaction time machine where you sat side by side and held the steering wheel. The tree was out front and you held the red button (simulating a brake line lock) to set the stage light. When the tree lit up, you had to hit the gas. My R/T was terrible because I was looking at the light. He told me to look straight ahead and don't focus on the light and it worked a lot better.
The very best thing to help R/T is consistency. Stage in the same place, launch at the same RPMs and work the pedals the exact same way each and every time. And don't wait until you see green. If you are still sitting still when you see green, its too late. .724 isn't too bad for your first outing so I don't think you are waiting too long, but these are things you will want to keep in the back of your mind. Have fun and don't be discouraged. You will only get better.
01-23-04, 08:53 PM
#62
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2003
Location: chicago land
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i have terrible wheel hop if i drop it, i just put in harder springs last night, went out and did a couple launches and its just as bad. What should i do. And i do a 4k slip because i have to or wheel hop.
01-28-04, 10:45 AM
#64
SUPRAMAN
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In my only race ive ever done, is drop the cluthc at 3200 rpm, but i spun the wheels all the way through 1st.
01-28-04, 11:08 AM
#65
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: O-Town, FL
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok for me this is what i do i rev it to about 1 million rpms then drop the clutch. BAM THATS the ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! major pull off with tons of spin no bogging.
LOLOLOL
LOLOLOL
05-13-04, 04:01 PM
#66
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 938
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RX7withNitrous
how this was in an n/a? My n/a never had enough power to spin though first unless it was like a 7k dump
how this was in an n/a? My n/a never had enough power to spin though first unless it was like a 7k dump
-Joe
05-13-04, 10:23 PM
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kansas
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
S5's hp drops after like 7.1k rpms so if your pulls till 8.3 its just wierd or you're feeling it wrong haha
I'd say 25-28 psi would be best for tires with a normal of 44 psi like mine are...
I'd say 25-28 psi would be best for tires with a normal of 44 psi like mine are...
05-14-04, 12:20 AM
#68
wtf's a piston
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The best way I shift in my na is to drop the clutch at 5500 and bring it to redline and shift into second with rpm's at 5000 and so-on. I just get into fourth gear on the 1/4. Love the sound of that buzzer.
05-15-04, 04:53 PM
#71
Is that thing Turbo?
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^yup
Like I said that was just with intake and exhaust. I had a 2.5 inch pipe where the cats were and rb catback and a cone filter with the aux ports hooked up to the stock airpump making em open around 3000 rpm a little sooner than i'd like for the street but better than having to wire em. Also this was on bald 205 tires with about 20psi in em. I power shifted into 2nd and babied it into 3rd since my synchros are going. Check out this thread, pic of timeslip here
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=277396
Like I said that was just with intake and exhaust. I had a 2.5 inch pipe where the cats were and rb catback and a cone filter with the aux ports hooked up to the stock airpump making em open around 3000 rpm a little sooner than i'd like for the street but better than having to wire em. Also this was on bald 205 tires with about 20psi in em. I power shifted into 2nd and babied it into 3rd since my synchros are going. Check out this thread, pic of timeslip here
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=277396
Last edited by totallimmortal; 05-15-04 at 05:01 PM.
05-15-04, 05:59 PM
#72
Rotary Power Information
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Hampshire, Greenfield
Posts: 528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i had an 1987 na with headers,hksmegaflow,& exhaust that ran 14.80@95.50mph i used to do 5k and drop the clutch
