View Poll Results: How do you launch?
4k-5k clutch drop
41
26.97%
4k-5k clutch slip
69
45.39%
6k-7k clutch drop
13
8.55%
6k-7k clutch slip
17
11.18%
Other
12
7.89%
Voters: 152. You may not vote on this poll
NA Launch Technique
08-08-03, 03:55 AM
#27
Originally posted by Project84
The very best thing to help R/T is consistency. Stage in the same place, launch at the same RPMs and work the pedals the exact same way each and every time.
The very best thing to help R/T is consistency. Stage in the same place, launch at the same RPMs and work the pedals the exact same way each and every time.
news flash: R/T has nothing to do with ET.
you can sit on a green light for 10 seconds and run a 15.0. the clock doesnt start until you leave that staging line.
these R/T tips are not gonna help him run a faster time. thats a common misconception "MAN, YOU RAN THAT BADASS ET CAUSE OF THAT .001 REACTION TIME." you may have beat the guy you were racing, but you didnt make your ET any better...
do this: next time you're at the track, dont worry about the tree flashing down... just sit there and take as long as you need (without rolling forward) to get a good launch.
08-08-03, 03:58 AM
#28
also: get those auxillary ports working... open aux ports + light flywheel = no launch.
auxillary ports being stuck open totally KILL your bottom end, and even made my car bog badly with the *stock* flywheel. i can only imagine what its doing to you with that light flywheel on there...
auxillary ports being stuck open totally KILL your bottom end, and even made my car bog badly with the *stock* flywheel. i can only imagine what its doing to you with that light flywheel on there...
08-09-03, 09:13 PM
#29
Open up! Search Warrant!
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I never said anything about the R/T having anything to do with ET did I?
Did I say anywhere at anytime that these R/T tips will help him run a faster time?
So whats the problem?
Last edited by Project84; 08-09-03 at 09:17 PM.
08-27-03, 04:24 PM
#32
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The first thing you'll want to do is get a note book to record information on when you go to the track and keep your time slips. Most people dont do this, however it is a good idea. The reason for this is to record the weather conditions, tire pressure, and other various settings. When you do this the next time you go to the track you will not have to guess what your desired tire psi is or what your settings are in your car(this helps consistency). Also if your not confident about your launching technique find an empty parking lot at night and make a couple practice runs(i know its illegal but you do what you have to, to get better).
.
08-27-03, 06:13 PM
#34
The main thing that you want to worry about, is not letting the RPMs drop below about 4k. Our cars make no power below that point (relatively speaking). I always give a little slip of the clutch at about 5-5500 rpm. I get a chirp or two, and then Im off. This is with street tires inflated to correct PSI also.
08-28-03, 05:35 PM
#35
pistons=teh suck
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bare with me, as ive never raced before, but i was wondering about how you launch. when you say slipping the clutch, thats just letting it out slow like you would do during normal driving right? and dropping it is letting it out all the way right away? i would think dropping it wouldnt make for a very smooth start at all, and possibly even stall. someone fill me in.
08-28-03, 11:03 PM
#39
dropping the clutch = waiting on the line for the light to turn green with your RPM's somewhere at like 7-8K (in 1st w/clutch to the floor) and a split sec b4 u see green just let it go. Correctly set-up the car will hook and book. Incorrectly set-up (for hard drag racing) the car will spin tires.
Slipping the clutch = same theory but ANY sign of wheel spin you play the clutch to avoid spinning the tires. You'll go nowhere fast with lots of wheel spin.
My 1st gen... I'd drop the clutch at 8K+ and the car would lift the front end, not off the ground but fenders would rise away from the tires. I was seeing 1.8 60's after heating up my Nitto drag radials... but keep in mind, dropping the clutch with sticky tires and a strong clutch breaks things... I've went through 2 rears and 2 trannies in one season.
Slipping the clutch = same theory but ANY sign of wheel spin you play the clutch to avoid spinning the tires. You'll go nowhere fast with lots of wheel spin.
My 1st gen... I'd drop the clutch at 8K+ and the car would lift the front end, not off the ground but fenders would rise away from the tires. I was seeing 1.8 60's after heating up my Nitto drag radials... but keep in mind, dropping the clutch with sticky tires and a strong clutch breaks things... I've went through 2 rears and 2 trannies in one season.
Last edited by 85TIIDEVIL; 08-28-03 at 11:08 PM.
08-30-03, 11:16 AM
#43
sold--no longer in debt
Originally posted by Mephis
why does every drag racing thread have bad r/t's?
1st time i dragraced without any experence i cut 688's-564's.
why does every drag racing thread have bad r/t's?
1st time i dragraced without any experence i cut 688's-564's.
Isn't your car auto?
10-24-03, 01:13 PM
#48
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my only time at the track with the rx7, I ran a 16.3 I launched at around 3500rpm. The car is totally stock and even has a bit of an exhaust leak....I also had the worst worn bushings in the world at the time. I guess my rebuilt motor is running pretty strong??? And I also shifted at the buzzer.
