2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Na driveshaft/diff hold up 14psi?

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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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Na driveshaft/diff hold up 14psi?

I did a compression test on my engine and results were good so I am upgrading my turbo and plan on stopping at 14 pounds of boost.

Will my NA s4 gxl LSD diff, half shafts and drive shaft hold up to 14 psi?

If I were to get a turbo drive shaft will mazdatrix be my best bet or should i go with a used turbo driveshaft?

note* I have a turbo diff and half shafts I'm just debating the upgrade since my turbo diff is an open diff and not an lsd. Also the drive-shaft from mazdatrix is kind of expensive..
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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sure it will hold up, but for how long? i'm pretty sure aaron cake is running some pretty decent HP with the NA drivetrain. might want to check his threads.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Napsterfreak15
Will my NA s4 gxl LSD diff, half shafts and drive shaft hold up to 14 psi?
Sure, just as long as you don't beat on the car too badly. The main factor is torque and how it is applied to the system. Even a non-turbo 13B can beat up a transmission and break differentials if it is driven violently.

Originally Posted by Napsterfreak15
If I were to get a turbo drive shaft will mazdatrix be my best bet or should i go with a used turbo driveshaft?
I wouldn't waste my time and money on a used driveshaft, as most of them are so old now that they will soon fail if they are not already binding.

Originally Posted by Napsterfreak15
note* I have a turbo diff and half shafts I'm just debating the upgrade since my turbo diff is an open diff and not an lsd.
All TII differentials are LSDs. S4 is a clutch type LSD, while S5 is a VLSD, but regardless they are all LSDs.

Originally Posted by Napsterfreak15
Also the drive-shaft from mazdatrix is kind of expensive..
The Mazdatrix aftermarket driveshaft is pretty cheap, and even their aluminum driveshaft is cheaper than the OEM driveshaft.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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I've seen no reason the TII driveshaft should be stronger than an NA. They're basically the same thing except for bolt pattern. The halfshafts can be broken by an NA engine if you abuse it enough on a hard launch. That being said, my NA LSD has been doing just fine for a year now w/ something like ~250 RWTQ.

And 14 psi means nothing at all if you don't give details on what turbo you plan to use. The size will dictate how much torque you'll be making, which will give you an idea of how hard it might be on the NA driveline.
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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The turbo I'm using is a Garret TS04.

I never launch for the main reason that I just don't know how to without stalling. My clutch is an Excedy Multi Disk Metallic and its un sprung.

Thanks for the input
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88
I've seen no reason the TII driveshaft should be stronger than an NA. They're basically the same thing except for bolt pattern. The halfshafts can be broken by an NA engine if you abuse it enough on a hard launch. That being said, my NA LSD has been doing just fine for a year now w/ something like ~250 RWTQ.

And 14 psi means nothing at all if you don't give details on what turbo you plan to use. The size will dictate how much torque you'll be making, which will give you an idea of how hard it might be on the NA driveline.
The TII driveshaft is noticably larger than the n/a. That being said I don't think he'll hurt an n/a unit based solely on the fact he wants to turbo it. It's all about how it is driven.

I bought a used '90 n/a that had a broken front u-joint on the driveshaft from the owner just beating on it. Nothing serious in terms of power mods. The thing was just abused. I have personally killed a TII transmission and a couple of aftermarket TII clutches that were transplanted into an old '88 base model that I once had. That car too didn't have much in the way of power mods. I just abused the hell out of it. It's all in how you treat it. You can break anything. The thing that killed parts in each of those cars was hard launching from a stop and then slamming it into gear at redline without using the clutch (speed shifting). If you want reliability, don't do that!
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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/\ nice. I'll try not to abuse it then. I NEVER launch so thats a good thing

Also my 17X7 wheels always break loose when i shift at high RPMs. That helps for less wear on the driveline right?
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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I had a puck clutch on my N/A, which only did about 130 torque to the wheels (which is a lot for an n/a). I eventually annihilated most of the drivetrain from the abusive launches I used to do on that thing. Eventually the tranny blew, the diff and diff mount blew, and all the engine and tranny mounts blew. We're talking multiple 6500-7000rpm launches here.

My T2 does about 300 torque to the wheels. I have a puck clutch on it and I don't even launch the thing. I still have the original diff mount on there with 120k.
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