N374 jspec ecu, has anyone figured out how to use it on a s5 NA to s5 T2 swap
N374 jspec ecu, has anyone figured out how to use it on a s5 NA to s5 T2 swap
Has anyone successfully used the n374 ecu on a s5 na to t2 swap while using the na cars wiring harnesses?
I was working on a turbo swap in a s5 na car and ran into ecu issues.
I tried to use the n374 ecu and it ended up doing the typical run verrrrry poorly on 1 rotor.
Swapping the na n350 ecu in and the car fired right up and idled and reved freely.
this is using na wiring harnesses
after searching around the general consensus is that the jspec ecu seems to work fine in real s5 turbos but something with the NA underdash harness causes the jspec ecu to run bad. Some say chipping the ecu fixes this issue too. But id rather like to avoid chipping if possible. Further I cant seem to locate a real usdm ecu at the moment either...
Has anyone figured out what wiring differences are causing this and or how to fix it?
some have speculated it has to do with the Japanese speed limiter, but without a translated Japanese wiring diagram it is pretty hard to tell whats what.
I was working on a turbo swap in a s5 na car and ran into ecu issues.
I tried to use the n374 ecu and it ended up doing the typical run verrrrry poorly on 1 rotor.
Swapping the na n350 ecu in and the car fired right up and idled and reved freely.
this is using na wiring harnesses
after searching around the general consensus is that the jspec ecu seems to work fine in real s5 turbos but something with the NA underdash harness causes the jspec ecu to run bad. Some say chipping the ecu fixes this issue too. But id rather like to avoid chipping if possible. Further I cant seem to locate a real usdm ecu at the moment either...
Has anyone figured out what wiring differences are causing this and or how to fix it?
some have speculated it has to do with the Japanese speed limiter, but without a translated Japanese wiring diagram it is pretty hard to tell whats what.
Check out eBay there are usually some S5 T2 harnesses and ECUs for sale there, I sold a JDM ECU not long ago and the new owner said he had no problems using it since but I believe he has a factory T2 not a swap
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information
you can send an N374 in and they will know how to make it work
you can send an N374 in and they will know how to make it work
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the US car has a mileage switch, on the same pin that the JDM car has the speed limiter, so depending on the position of the mileage switch, the JDM ecu will either run fine, or it will run on 1 rotor because you're going too fast.
if you want to look yourself, foxed.ca has the JDM wiring manual, and you can compare.
yes, i hate to say search n00b, but i don't recall which wire is different, i think 1F? searching will reveal a lengthy thread where me and Satch, and Gregs22 figured it out.
the US car has a mileage switch, on the same pin that the JDM car has the speed limiter, so depending on the position of the mileage switch, the JDM ecu will either run fine, or it will run on 1 rotor because you're going too fast.
if you want to look yourself, foxed.ca has the JDM wiring manual, and you can compare.
the US car has a mileage switch, on the same pin that the JDM car has the speed limiter, so depending on the position of the mileage switch, the JDM ecu will either run fine, or it will run on 1 rotor because you're going too fast.
if you want to look yourself, foxed.ca has the JDM wiring manual, and you can compare.
yes, i hate to say search n00b, but i don't recall which wire is different, i think 1F? searching will reveal a lengthy thread where me and Satch, and Gregs22 figured it out.
the US car has a mileage switch, on the same pin that the JDM car has the speed limiter, so depending on the position of the mileage switch, the JDM ecu will either run fine, or it will run on 1 rotor because you're going too fast.
if you want to look yourself, foxed.ca has the JDM wiring manual, and you can compare.
the US car has a mileage switch, on the same pin that the JDM car has the speed limiter, so depending on the position of the mileage switch, the JDM ecu will either run fine, or it will run on 1 rotor because you're going too fast.
if you want to look yourself, foxed.ca has the JDM wiring manual, and you can compare.
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I believe you ground that wire and the engine will operate properly. If the mileage on the odometer is between 100k and 120k the wire will output 12 volts to the ECU, but if the mileage is between 120k and 200k then it outputs a ground signal to the ECU. One of these signals causes the ECU to cause the engine to act funky so you have to make the wire to act differently, thus if it is 12 volts then it needs to be grounded and so on.
Last edited by satch; May 17, 2016 at 01:18 PM.
so I cut the 1M wire and left it an open connection and the car starts and seems to run normally, I only drove it around the cudisac in first tho as I had some other stuff to work on to make it road worthy
N374 jspec ecu, has anyone figured out how to use it on a s5 NA to s5 T2 swap
I believe you ground that wire and the engine will operate properly. If the mileage on the odometer is between 100k and 120k the wire will output 12 volts to the ECU, but if the mileage is between 120k and 200k then it outputs a ground signal to the ECU. One of these signals causes the ECU to cause the engine to act funky so you have to make the wire to act differently, thus if it is 12 volts then it needs to be grounded and so on.
It changes one of the emission solenoids. One of these solenoids is activated for the first 20k and not from 20k to 100k but after 100k is hit it activates the solenoid for the next 20 k (100k to 120k). If this wire runs to a pin which is used for another purpose then the ECU is then receiving the wrong signal.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the FSM mentions the thing specifically, its something to do with the split air number 2 i think, anyways its there for some EPA mandated reason, and like you'd expect the old timers had stories of sub 20,000mile cars failing smog, because
It changes one of the emission solenoids. One of these solenoids is activated for the first 20k and not from 20k to 100k but after 100k is hit it activates the solenoid for the next 20 k (100k to 120k). If this wire runs to a pin which is used for another purpose then the ECU is then receiving the wrong signal.
lol most of the time if my car is parked somewhere sketchy I routinely unplug something or remove a fuse or something, so a theif cannot take the car, 95% of thefts of these would be for a joyride or to drive off and steal the rims or something....
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
there is something else too, but really minor
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