Hesh

iTrader: (1)

As I had previously mentioned my car was an N/A with engine swap to TII, the computer was never replaced (it had a N326), an so I had couple of issues like, when you would step on it would heat up like 3 1/4s of the way up, the lean mix would explain this and so I recently purchased the N340 which is supposed to be a computer from a TII J-spec. I just got it today (like 15 days after the purchase since Im in Costa Rica) so I was pretty happy about finally ending up what someone started many years back.
After installing the ECU, the car would start up normally, the idle was a little lost but I thot it was a matter of maybe tuning the idle and the timing, then the first problem appeard, when you hit the gas pedal at exactly 4000 RPM the car would stop accelerating, like there was lack of gas, completlely and every single time at 4000 RPM.
So I thot that maybe the fuel pump but when I would put back the N326 the car would rev up to 6-7K with no problem, put back the N340 and the issue would appear.
So i read a little bit and apparently the car has 2 sets of injectors 1 for low RPM and the second for High RPM and curiously enaugh the High flow injectors are supposed to kick in at 4000 RPM, so I thot, maybe the ECU I just purchased was defective, so I called up a friend with an Original TII, we installed the N340 in his car and good news for me, the ECU would not show the same problem in his car, his car would rev up freely up to 7K, the only thing I noticed was that the idle was also completly lost I thot maybe it also needed a little tune here and there.
Anyway, the computer does work on his car, so maybe im missing something still (no not again) but I was wondering how many types of injectors came on the TII from version to version, I read also that there are some cars with high impedance injectors and some with low, but I how do I figure out which ones are which and also If someone has any other ideas besides the injectors.
BTW I took the car for a spin (less than 5 minutes around the block) and the car would work fine from 1K RPM to exactly 4K RPM, so that may confirm my theory, but any input will be appreaciated.

Boost Lee

iTrader: (3)

I had this same problem... you know what I had to do to fix it? I'm not sure why it worked, but I'm lucky it did. Here is the scenario:

S4 N/A - TII swap. But the N/A speedo was broken.... I at one point had the cluster out (in an attempt to fix the speedo) and when it was out, the car ran tops!!! It made 186whp with stock everything!!! The next day I put the cluster back in and the 4000rpm limit came back. At that point, I decided to put the Jspec speedo into the car and when I did....TADA!!! Speedo and boost to redline!!!

The easiest thing for you to do to test me is disconnect the harness on the gauge cluster and check... it's only a few minutes!!

Hesh

iTrader: (1)

I unplugged the instrument cluster and certainly, the car would rev up. After narrowing down we actually found the actual cable that does that, is a A3- Blue cable on the harness for the speed SW. Here I add a doc on exactly what cable that is. but another question what does that cable exactly does. I mean the Speed SW on the dash, what the function on it?

Hesh

iTrader: (1)

after installing the turbo ECU, N340 the car ran sweet for about 2 hours, like 50 miles. then it dies niw the cae wint turn on. the engine rotates, and there is spark but it doesnt turn on. any ideas?

Hesh

iTrader: (1)

after unplugin the speed SW from the instrument cluster harness, the car would turn on, and drive, and rev up. after like 20 minutes of using N340 and just after you turn off the car, it wont turn back on with the N340. it just turns and turns. Interesting part is, if I plug the N326, it will turn right up, and run and rev up. So I decided to try the ECU next day, It started, it drove for like 20 minutes, after I turned the car off, it wont come back, if I put the N326 again it will turn right up and run. Its certainly a weird issue. let me know if you have any ideas. thanks,

BTW. If issue was fixed running J-spec Instrument cluster, there must be something that I could unplug/rewire to fix the issue.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

First of all, you can get a 100% working USDM ECU (N333 or N332) for like $50-75 off the forums, and that will immediately eliminate the ECU as a source of problems unless you happened to get screwed and get a bad one. Do that first. Then check your grounds, make sure your cat is not clogged, and make sure you have all the right injectors and they are hooked up. Also set the TPS. See the FAQ.