n/a wiring harness for t2
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n/a wiring harness for t2
Im going to be using my n/a harness for my t2 swap and ive heard i only need to change two wires to make the harness plug in correct? I have some kind of idea on which wires they are ( one if them is a knock sensor and the other a turbo or boost sensor i think that will be changed to) but i was wondering if anyone had a diagram or pictures of the locations or wiring or something helpfull.
#5
Top Down, Boost Up
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Ah, sounded like he was talking about the turbo duty solenoid (S5), so that was my guess.
Anyway, S4 pin differences:
1R: NA - P/S Switch, Turbo - Knock Sensor
2K: NA - Split Air Solenoid, Turbo - Twin-scroll Solenoid
3D: NA - Inhibitor Switch (AT only), Turbo - Fuel Resistor/Relay
Anyway, S4 pin differences:
1R: NA - P/S Switch, Turbo - Knock Sensor
2K: NA - Split Air Solenoid, Turbo - Twin-scroll Solenoid
3D: NA - Inhibitor Switch (AT only), Turbo - Fuel Resistor/Relay
#6
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So you run the split air solenoids two wires to the twin scroll solenoid that is on the Turbo engine your buying. You have to run those wires from the right side of the engine to the left.
You have to extend the BAC's two wires from where they are NOW on the left side of the engine, over to the right side of the engine. Not a big deal.
The three TPS wires MIGHT have to be extended a few inches. Depends on *things*.
Forget the knock box, wires or anything to do with the knock sensor imho. Not worth a bucket of warm spit.
The Air Bypass Solenoid (AWS for those who don't know the right series four name) needs its two wires lenghtened IF you use it. Most people disable that item even on a stock car. Only used for 17 seconds during a cold start.
You don't have a Fuel PUmp Resistor/relay on your car now and you don't need one in the future. Don't even think about buying/using one. Waste of time and space.
And don't even think about using a Turbo EM harness on that engine. If you do, then you'll have just one big mess on your hands. It's all in the wiring mismatch b/t Turbo EM harnesses and Non turbo EM harness where the two ORANGE plugs mate with the Front harness. A true wiring mess if you use that harness.
You have to extend the BAC's two wires from where they are NOW on the left side of the engine, over to the right side of the engine. Not a big deal.
The three TPS wires MIGHT have to be extended a few inches. Depends on *things*.
Forget the knock box, wires or anything to do with the knock sensor imho. Not worth a bucket of warm spit.
The Air Bypass Solenoid (AWS for those who don't know the right series four name) needs its two wires lenghtened IF you use it. Most people disable that item even on a stock car. Only used for 17 seconds during a cold start.
You don't have a Fuel PUmp Resistor/relay on your car now and you don't need one in the future. Don't even think about buying/using one. Waste of time and space.
And don't even think about using a Turbo EM harness on that engine. If you do, then you'll have just one big mess on your hands. It's all in the wiring mismatch b/t Turbo EM harnesses and Non turbo EM harness where the two ORANGE plugs mate with the Front harness. A true wiring mess if you use that harness.
#7
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This might help:
http://www.jacksonsgarage.net/MikesCar.html
http://www.jacksonsgarage.net/MikesCar.html
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#8
Top Down, Boost Up
iTrader: (7)
So you run the split air solenoids two wires to the twin scroll solenoid that is on the Turbo engine your buying. You have to run those wires from the right side of the engine to the left.
...
The Air Bypass Solenoid (AWS for those who don't know the right series four name) needs its two wires lenghtened IF you use it. Most people disable that item even on a stock car. Only used for 17 seconds during a cold start.
...
The Air Bypass Solenoid (AWS for those who don't know the right series four name) needs its two wires lenghtened IF you use it. Most people disable that item even on a stock car. Only used for 17 seconds during a cold start.
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