N/A to TII Swap question.
I've been reading on the thread for the n/a to TII swap and it says it's a lot easier to just use the n/a harness. I don't have an n/a harness cause the s4 n/a shell I bought didn't come with it. I have a complete engine harness and ecu from a s4 TII. I've been searching and I couldn't find out what I need to do to make a TII engine harness to work with an n/a car. Does someone know if there's a write up about it?
I have a s5 but I think the engine harness connects to the car the same way for both S4 & S5
I assume you are changing the ECU to a S4 TII unit so it should be a simple plug the dash harness to the ECU and connect the engine harness to the wiper harness (rectangular, orange connector mounted on the inside passenger fender well above the stock ECU). As long as all the parts are domestic market and for the same generation as the chassis I don't think that any mods are necessary...
I assume you are changing the ECU to a S4 TII unit so it should be a simple plug the dash harness to the ECU and connect the engine harness to the wiper harness (rectangular, orange connector mounted on the inside passenger fender well above the stock ECU). As long as all the parts are domestic market and for the same generation as the chassis I don't think that any mods are necessary...
I have a s5 but I think the engine harness connects to the car the same way for both S4 & S5
I assume you are changing the ECU to a S4 TII unit so it should be a simple plug the dash harness to the ECU and connect the engine harness to the wiper harness (rectangular, orange connector mounted on the inside passenger fender well above the stock ECU). As long as all the parts are domestic market and for the same generation as the chassis I don't think that any mods are necessary...
I assume you are changing the ECU to a S4 TII unit so it should be a simple plug the dash harness to the ECU and connect the engine harness to the wiper harness (rectangular, orange connector mounted on the inside passenger fender well above the stock ECU). As long as all the parts are domestic market and for the same generation as the chassis I don't think that any mods are necessary...
Sorry don't know anything about a "knock box".
On my S5 there is a knock sensor on the engine that connects to the engine harness, if I am remembering correctly... No separate "box".
On my S5 there is a knock sensor on the engine that connects to the engine harness, if I am remembering correctly... No separate "box".
oh whoops, wrong thing. It was talking about the knock sensor and that was modifying the n/a harness.
Trending Topics
lots of people using the na harness for same series t2 motor don't even hook the knock box/na pwr steering thing up at all. knock in rotary usually means engine death. you don't have to worry about that. I think you have to hook up the knock sensor with the t2 harness though or it might throw a code/beep. not sure it would even throw a code though. I'll be going t2 block one day using my na harness and I know I'm not hooking up that useless knock sensor.
Grabbed this from rotaryresurrection.com
"You also have to do a bit of rewiring for this to work in the 87-88 cars (in the 89-91's it is a basic plug and play).
You have to run 2 wires from the back of the alternator inside the cabin by the ecu. Compare your old NA wiring harness and trace the wires that used to be at the alternator back to the plug they ended at (one of the 2 large orange ones inside the car). These are black and white wires. Now compare these pin positions with the current harness. Cut (or remove and re-pin) whatever wires are presently there (theyre not doing anything important) and splice in your 2 newly run wires. Be sure to cut and insulate those old wires, so you're not backfeeding through some other circuit. This keeps all your idiot lights from staying on all the time (this is normally an indication of a failed alternator, and the car thinks it has failed because the wiring was missing).
You also have to run 1 wire about 6 inches. On your old NA harness, find the yellow/red temp sensor wire that went under the oil filter. Now find it's pinout position on the orange plug that was inside the car. Compare this to the turbo harness' plug. Now trace the same wire on the turbo harness in the car. Cut or re-pin that wire on the *engine side* of the turbo harness, and jumper it over to the wire that is in the pin position the old NA harness had the wire at. Be sure to cut this old wire and insulate it to prevent backfeeding through that circuit. Now your dash temperature gauge will work like stock."
Here's the original link.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...to_turbo2.html
Hope this helps!
"You also have to do a bit of rewiring for this to work in the 87-88 cars (in the 89-91's it is a basic plug and play).
You have to run 2 wires from the back of the alternator inside the cabin by the ecu. Compare your old NA wiring harness and trace the wires that used to be at the alternator back to the plug they ended at (one of the 2 large orange ones inside the car). These are black and white wires. Now compare these pin positions with the current harness. Cut (or remove and re-pin) whatever wires are presently there (theyre not doing anything important) and splice in your 2 newly run wires. Be sure to cut and insulate those old wires, so you're not backfeeding through some other circuit. This keeps all your idiot lights from staying on all the time (this is normally an indication of a failed alternator, and the car thinks it has failed because the wiring was missing).
You also have to run 1 wire about 6 inches. On your old NA harness, find the yellow/red temp sensor wire that went under the oil filter. Now find it's pinout position on the orange plug that was inside the car. Compare this to the turbo harness' plug. Now trace the same wire on the turbo harness in the car. Cut or re-pin that wire on the *engine side* of the turbo harness, and jumper it over to the wire that is in the pin position the old NA harness had the wire at. Be sure to cut this old wire and insulate it to prevent backfeeding through that circuit. Now your dash temperature gauge will work like stock."
Here's the original link.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...to_turbo2.html
Hope this helps!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
When you plug in the S4 N/A harness into the N332 or N333(TII Ecu's) the wire that goes to the power steering is actually going to the Knock sensor.(that is what the Ecu sees)
So every time you turn it,it will retard timing.
Cut ..ah fark,,,(remember this..****.) Wire I R or 1R??..something like that,AT the ECU and this alleviates the Problem.
Try searching under RotaryRocket88's signature and hit the link.
here: I found the info:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/
So every time you turn it,it will retard timing.
Cut ..ah fark,,,(remember this..****.) Wire I R or 1R??..something like that,AT the ECU and this alleviates the Problem.
Try searching under RotaryRocket88's signature and hit the link.
here: I found the info:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s4-na-turbo-swap-details-813825/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



