2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

N/a or t2 pulley???

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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 03:48 PM
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N/a or t2 pulley???

I'm trying to get my car in time and it's seeming impossible. I've pulled the CAS a hundred times and realigned it the the main pulley mark on yellow. It won't idle under 1100 to get it in time... My thought is whoever put this motor in might have used the n/a ecc shaft pulley instead of the t2 pulley. And yes my car is an n/a body with t2 swap. How could I tell the difference between the 2 pulleys? I know ones larger... Or can someone on this forum take a tape measure to thier t2 pulley and read me the size of theirs? And some do the same to thier n/a PLEASE??? I'm lost as to why I can't this thing in time right
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:09 PM
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Is it possible that the pulley is 90 deg off? Does it only bolt on one way? Or could this pulley be bolted on wrong?
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Edit ^ I just pulled the pulley and found out it only goes on one way...
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 07:02 AM
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My motor is a jdm s5 turbo 2. Anyone???
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 08:23 AM
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it's not the pulley.They are the same size(N/a or TII).
check and see if the throttle cable has slack when idle.
The throttle also has a screw that you can adjust the butterflies on so that the idle can be adjusted...and you can adjust a screw on the BAC for idle I Believe.(I don't have any emissions or mess of vacuum lines on my engine so it is simple).
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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check check check and double check you are stabbing it correctly.

check to see if your plug wires are wired up correctly. use a timing light to check timing.

pullies are known to have different marks on them as the pullies and hub are a set. however, they are not soo far off that you will get horrible idle or blow your engine.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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n/a or tii makes no difference on the pulley. The hub and pulleys are matched sets, if you think you have a mismatched set borrow a matched pair from a friend and restab you cas.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
it's not the pulley.They are the same size(N/a or TII).
check and see if the throttle cable has slack when idle.
The throttle also has a screw that you can adjust the butterflies on so that the idle can be adjusted...and you can adjust a screw on the BAC for idle I Believe.(I don't have any emissions or mess of vacuum lines on my engine so it is simple).
Cable has slack. I've adjusted the screw but any lower than about 1k rpm it drops to 500 and barly idles. And I forgot to mention I have no BAC or acv. And rats nest is removed.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
check check check and double check you are stabbing it correctly.

check to see if your plug wires are wired up correctly. use a timing light to check timing.

pullies are known to have different marks on them as the pullies and hub are a set. however, they are not soo far off that you will get horrible idle or blow your engine.
I've checked it so much it's not even funny. The wires are on right. And I can't get the idle down far enough to check it with the light. When I do check it at 1k rpm it's 17 deg advanced.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
n/a or tii makes no difference on the pulley. The hub and pulleys are matched sets, if you think you have a mismatched set borrow a matched pair from a friend and restab you cas.
The the problem... No one in my area is a rotor head... I got no one to borrow anything from or get advice from...
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Vert88t2
I've checked it so much it's not even funny. The wires are on right. And I can't get the idle down far enough to check it with the light. When I do check it at 1k rpm it's 17 deg advanced.
Using the palm pilot for rtek if I set the idle at just over 1k the leading timing on the palm pilot shows as 14*. So you're probably not that far off. I would consider looking towards a vac leak for high idle.
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Old Jul 19, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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make sure the teeth at top left and right bottom aligned with the corners of the magnets and don't let it move one bit when stabbing. crank the engine with a 19mm socket wrench to get it in line. then set your TPS and with a timing light, that is powered by the car battery only, set your timing and be done.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed

Using the palm pilot for rtek if I set the idle at just over 1k the leading timing on the palm pilot shows as 14*. So you're probably not that far off. I would consider looking towards a vac leak for high idle.
Thanx that eases my mind a bit. I bet your right about the vacuum leak. I still have to put on the FMIC w/blow off cause right now it's just stock jdm s5 top mount w/o a BOV. Needless to say I'm not driving it like that.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed

Using the palm pilot for rtek if I set the idle at just over 1k the leading timing on the palm pilot shows as 14*. So you're probably not that far off. I would consider looking towards a vac leak for high idle.
Good to know 👍 once I put on the FMIC I'll look for further leaks cause right now I'm thinking my stock jdm s5 top mount is leaking.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by walken
make sure the teeth at top left and right bottom aligned with the corners of the magnets and don't let it move one bit when stabbing. crank the engine with a 19mm socket wrench to get it in line. then set your TPS and with a timing light, that is powered by the car battery only, set your timing and be done.
Yes I've done this a bunch of times... And actually u wanna put the ecc pulley to TDC before restabbing the CAS... I've done it just like this but as quoted above I do believe I have a vacuum leak from the TMIC giving me most of the issue.
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Old Jul 20, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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Sorry for the double reply I'm using the new rx7club app and didn't realize it loaded my first reply.
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Old Aug 3, 2012 | 11:36 PM
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Half *** necro. The picture below RotaryRocket88 posted last year. If you look you can see the lowest load cell at just over 1k is indeed 14*. You'll have to get it under 1k to properly set timing if you have yet to do so.

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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
Half *** necro.
I sure hope your not sayin that to me. And after the FMIC was install there's no more issue. So there was a leak somewhere. If anyone's half assed it the people who post negative comments instead of helping out (the whole reason for this forum).
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Necro'ing a thread is bringing it back from the dead. It had been a few weeks without posts when i bumped it, thus calling it a half *** necro.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SpikeDerailed
Necro'ing a thread is bringing it back from the dead. It had been a few weeks without posts when i bumped it, thus calling it a half *** necro.
Ooooo dang I didn't know that!!! Sorry about that I thought it was some sly comment about the work I'm doing... My bad man... Thanx for the helpful picture it did put my mind at ease a little bit till the FMIC was put on and no more leaks. My idle is perfect after a TB cleaning. And timing is just peachy!!!
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