flamin-roids

Well engine upgrade is going to be coming son. I'm looking for cost efficient but don't want to be stupid. I've discussed this with a reliable source. Whether I go turbo or not I'll be running new injectors, new stand alone, new fuel pump, and some ignition goodies. I have a S5 N/A motor in my car now. Now should I go half bridge port and call it done (after rebuild of course) with all the new goodies? Or just toss all those on a stock TII motor. And then go through all the hassle and spend twice as much doing the conversion. I really don't care for a turbo. My source tells me a N/A running a half bridge and all the fuel and ignition goodies will get stomped by a stock TII with a boost controller. Running an N/A with a half bridge will cost me about half what a TII swap will. And be less hassle. How much of a pain in the *** will a HB ported N/A motor be to maintain and will it not stack up to a stock TII motor with a boost controller?

BlaCkPlaGUE

eh, question is, what kind of boost is he running?

At stock boost, I would think that you would win... but other than that, forced induction owns all.. as much as I hate to say it

flamin-roids

I know turbos own. Its sad to say. I'm just trying to convince myself I don't need one. And the comparison is based on a S5 TII (stock with a boost controller)

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Boost is fun.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

TII will win. You could always turbo your n/a block...

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Man, I'm feeling the N/A to Turbo hurt too. I've really grown to enjoy my N/A powah... alot actually... But as hard as it is to say it, I've got to sell it to get my TII fully built... It's sad, but I've been consoled by a few people that say once my TII's up and running with the full RB exhaust and the boost up, I'll never look back... Either way I'm still gonna miss the purity of the N/A powah... lol, sorry I just had to get that out. ha.

flamin-roids

Oh I've driven a healthy TII with RB exhaust and its a blast. However, I was dissapointed in driveability. Like boosting while taking a turn. Also my biggest problem is that I became very attached to this car. I wouldn't sell or trade it ever. Sounds kinda stupid I know. But the car was a gift from someone who isn't around anymore so you get the picture. I would love to have a high revving ported N/A. Something with a real smooth consistant power band. But only if its worth it.

DerangedHermit

Peripheral ported N/A = the good.

Kenteth

^^ periphera port n/a true duals

Bukwild

I thought you couldn't port a s5 NA?

FlukeSDS

Huh??

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

Turbo the Na.

flamin-roids

I'm pretty set on staying N/A. A PP or a full bridge will be insanely nerve racking to drive. I drive my car all the time. Even if for no reason. So reliability is the number one concern. Also I think the sound of a ported N/A at 10k rpm would be well worth it. Just not the "brap brap brap" while idle at 1400 rpm. I just want a fun consistent motor that will be easy to tune and consistent.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Whipple supercharger then, you'll have your nice 'even' power band, and you'll still be as fast as a modded tII.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

The real answer is to own both! I have a first gen turbo for the weekends, and a second gen non-turbo for the daily driving. Seriously I think you should stay non-turbo, simply after owning 9 rx-7s of all years and makes, my newest creation was literally thrown together just to have a fun daily driver, and turned out to be crazy *** fun! I cant tell you everything about it just yet, I gotta dyno it and get some pics, then I will post the full artical on here. But to give you some hope, I raced a full TII Rx-7 with a ported motor, full 3" exhaust, front mount intercooler, 9 pounds of boost, and he got me by only a car lenght and a half by the end of the quater mile! Even better was on the G-tech my N/a had only 12 less Rwhp than that TII. OH yeah, as a hint, my motor is not bridge ported. hahah, more to come later.

flamin-roids

Well here's what I want to with my motor. Just do a rebuild and use 3mm seals and all that good stuff. Run a half bridge and call it a day as far as the block goes. Have the manifold chemical flushed and polished. Run a header also. Then of course a new computer (haltech?) along with bigger injectors and a new fuel pump. Give the ignition some more juice and have my buddy tune it. I would like to be able to run it up to 10k rpm with a 9krpm redline. I figured cost to be around $2500 for all of this.

drago86

Dont put 3mm's in it youll ruin any chance you have of reaching 10k rpm. I currently have an aux bridge port motor running and its a pretty sweet street car, it idles fine, drive around town fine and really starts to scream above 6k rpm. I built the block for a max of 9k, 10 is going to take grooved gears and windowed bearings and possibly snap ringed rotor gears. I havnt been able to fully test it up to 9k yet because of the stock s4 rev limiter, but will probably have dyno graphs regardless after december when the header and shuch goes back on (smog season is approaching for me). Eventually im going to probably hook up a megasquirt. My rebuild cost me a little over 1k, with myself doing all the porting/ template design. If you want to do it this way, be careful with the porting, theres alot of little tricks that keep you from eating side seals you need to know before you make templates. Its probably going to cost you over 2500 if you want to hit 10k,..make sure you get a lightweight flywheel for anything much above 8k as well.