RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Ok, it has been a long time since I have had to reach out for help.. But I am at my wits end with my 10th AE build and am about to loose my mind.. I am going to outline the build and what is going on. PLease help me sort this thing out..

88 T2 10th AE

S5 block/Turbo
S4 intake manifolds
S4 waterpump/housing and neck
S4 turbo ecu/maf
Stock injectors (rebuilt)
FD fuel pump
Stock fuel delivery
Emissions removed with 2751 kit.
Racing beat DP and midpipe

Issues:

Timing was hard to set, almost like it didn't want to be quite right, but finally got it.

Some time After I set the timing I lost the Tachometer, needle doesnt move but the car runs fine.. revs up, timing light still shows spark..

Have to unlfood it each time I run it (since the timing has been set right) If I set it advanced the idle stays at 1500rpm and then the car will start each time without having to unflood, then the idle cannot be brought down.. Not sure if the flooding is due to the FD pump on the stock FPR?

Car is running super rich (have an exhaust leak too at the catback))

No vacuum leaks checked with carb cleaner

When I shut the car off the car builds up a lot of pressure and blows coolant out from underneath the filler port on the neck (near the waterpump) there is a vent port on this area that I blocked off becuase I couldnt find a place for a hose to go??

Lots of vibration at idle at low RPM (if I set the idle to under 1000rpm) almost feels like I put the motormounts are on incorrectly.... It shakes the dash and steering wheel and the rear hatch.. No vibration over 1000rpm..

The car drives very well but the boost seems a little weak too... I'm not looking for the quick fixes to these issues I would like to know how to fix them properly.

I think that is about it... I am so sick of tinkering with this thing, the motor has great compression, and runs good, just these few last things need straightening out. ANy ideas would be greatly appreciated..

Trevor

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If I am not mistaken the FD pump will overwhelm the stock FPR on a TII engine,So yo may wanna look at that problem,by either putting in a stock Pump or a aftermarket regulator.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Darn... I will check into that.. I thought I had read it was ok..

UPDATE: Fixed the Tach and the Coolant issue... I didn't have the belt on tight enough which was letting the voltage drop causing the tach to fall out.. Also the water pump wasnt circulating enough fluid...

The car still vibrates but I noticed that when I bypassed the BAC the idle settled down to 1100rpm the vibration still remains.. I am really concerned about the vibration... But I feel that it may be timing related still .. The timing is now sitting a little to the right of the yellow timing mark for some reason.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Ok, well I know its a saturday night but damn.. I guess I will install a fuel cut switch tomorrow, and see how that goes.. Maybe that will alleviate the starting issues.

I need suggestions on the vibration for sure though.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

"When I shut the car off the car builds up a lot of pressure and blows coolant out from underneath the filler port on the neck (near the waterpump) there is a vent port on this area that I blocked off becuase I couldnt find a place for a hose to go??"

The "vent" port needs a hose. Connect the hose to the overflow tank.

How do the plugs look? Perhaps a funky plug/wire/coil could throw your timing off. As we all know, timing has a big affect on idle.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

My Car's Radiator also has a vent port that connects to the overflow tank, should I just "T" them together?

I have the car idling at 900rpm now still vibrating a little although the timing is dead on now, Could bad gas or a clogged fuel filter cause some vibration from uneven detonation? The car sat for 9 years, I did clean out the tank and rebuild the injectors but there still could have been some gunk I guess...

When tinkering this morning I lost the tach again temporarily, came back after I shut it off and restarted it.. I let the car idle for about 20 minutes with no issues other then the occasional dip in idle and quick recovery. The car doesnt smoke or smell nearly as rich. I am going to check/recheck the motor mount tightness etc today and move the heat shield that is vibrating off the downpipe..

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

The over flow hose should connect from where ever the radiator cap is. On mine, I only have the cap on the t'stat neck, so that's where my hose is. When the cap pops, the coolant needs to flow somewhere.
Your trailing could be going if you are also losing tach intermittently.

I assume the fuel filter is new?

Also, there are some hidden grounds underneath the trailing coils. Try cleaning those up, and all the other grounds.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

i feel like the cas is a tooth off. try picking it up and turning the gear one tooth in each way see if it helps. my 6 port turbo did the same

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I am almost 100% sure I have the incorrect pulley on the e shaft... I have an s4 T2 pulley on the s5 t2 engine... that has to be the issue.... has to... please let it be..

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

YYYYYUP. Each pulley is made with its own hub. Because they only mount one way and the bolts are purposely in a strange location. So... sometimes you may get an engine/pulley combo that is fine, others that could be 20 degrees off. Only way to know for sure is to temporarily use a racing beat pulley and see where the timing really is.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

That was my worry... Crap..

So getting an S5 t2 pulley (stock) and setting my TDC with that won't 100% be foolproof? My thought was to buy or borrow an S5 pulley to see if that would fix it.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

i really doubt it. the stock FC fpr can handle a walbro 255 easily and that is well documented, im sure an FD pump will be ok


as far as your overflow bottle setup: go buy two radiator caps, one 13psi and the other just a cap or higher pressure like 16psi. put the 13 psi on the waterpump neck, and run that tube to the overflow bottle. But the other (higher pressure or cap) on the radiator and cap that port. the 13 psi cap will maintain your pressure, and let excess coolant go to the overflow bottle, while the other cap is just a cap

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

You could also do a search for the "fluid displacement method" that I think Hailers came up with.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I am trying to locate a pulley. The fluid displacement method seems a little out of my comfort level...

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

Two S5 pulleys may not be the same either. You must use the pulley that came with the engine, an aftermarket pulley(RB), or find a way to identify TDC. If you buy a pulley combo from another engine(s4 or s5) you must be sure that they were never swapped before and are a matched set.

Do you have the S4 hub that your pulley came from?

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I am using a s4 hub and pulley that came with the original engine, but I put an s5 turbo engine in the car and there was no pulley on the engine.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

With the number of FC's you've gone through, you might as well bite the bullet and get the racing beat pulley. Don't RUN the pulley (it underdrives the water pump), just mount it to line everything up, then put the old hub/pulley back on, and make the new necessary marks on it.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

That's the plan.. I bought one off ebay yesterday, hopefully it shows up by the weekend.