WELL guys I have thought long and hard about this. I have decided to pull my engine and rebuild it w/ upgraded parts. I am going to put in FD corner springs and 3mm apex seals. So I guess this 1st rebuild will be interesting and mybe a headache. I am gettin a rotary rebuild video and i already have a manual. So anyone who has ever done this please give me some tips and hints to help me along the way. I would really appreciate the help. Also what has to be done to the rotors so they will fit 3mm apex seals. I also will get the rotor housings a Stage 3 Streetport. Thanks
Mike

Anyone who helps thanks for the ADVICE

P.S. SAY GOODBYE TO THE WAY THE ENGINE LOOKS NOW....IT WILL CHANGE INTO SOMETHING MEAN WHEN I AM FINISHED WITH IT

 

Can you PLEASE stop using 500 exclamation marks on every topic you post? Thanks.

Edited title.

There's no point in going to 3MM seals unless your rotors are too worn to accept 2MM seals. Engine rebuild threads are in the archives, as is a 13B rebuild parts list with good discussion.

What exactly is a "stage 3 streetport"? Normally shops define their porting or mods by "stages", but these numbers are totally arbitrary.

 

I was told by a various shops that a Stage 3 Streetport is an actual Streetport. I was not going to do the Streetport I was going to take the housings to the RotorSportsRacing to let them do it. My rotors arent worn but I have heard 3mm Apex Seals are Unbreakable compared to 2mm Apex seals and I know how it is to blow weak 2mm Apex Seals so I wanted to upgrade. I am sorry for using so many exclamation points but please I was asking for help and it seems you are shooting me down. I did a Search and saw what you are talking about but I just wanted to see if some good advice would come out of some fellow members. Thanks
Mike

 

How will the engine bay look meaner?

 

3MM steals are only marginally stronger then 2MM seals. Unless your rotors are worn, it's not worth the money to mill out the rotors for 3MM seals. The RA 2MM seals are apparently QUITE a bit stronger then the 2MM Mazda seals, if you want to upgrade.

"Stages" are just a way of a shop to define their various porting levels. For example, my "stage one" port might be a bridgeport, but your "stage one" port might be a mild streetport. So make sure you know what you are getting when people give you port "stages". It's better just to refer to the ports generically, like "mild street port", "extended street port", "half bridge", etc.

 

Mmmmm.... well if these RA 2mm Apex Seals are almost as strong as 3mm Seals and quite a bit stronger than OEM 2mm Apex Seals I may go with them. Anyone else have any advice for me?

 

Listen to what I am posting. 3MM seals are only very slightly stronger then 2MM seals. If you don't believe me, search. This has all be covered before. One good ping will kill a 3MM seal just as fast as a 2MM seal. Based on what others are saying, the 2MM RA seals are muhc stronger then the Mazda 2MM/3MM seal.

Also, 3MM doesn't seal as well and creates more friction against the housing.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=393452
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=383715
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=388562
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373886
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=357139
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67833 <--Good
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354451

There's some reading for you.

 

I belive you 100% and I will go with the RA 2mm Apex Seals definitely it if saves me from having to get my rotors milled. I just want a Strong T2 Engine like I had in the pics but I want it to be stronger internally than the OEM **** that they come with. I will certainly pick me up some RA 2mm Apex Seals. Is their a website where I cn get them?

 

Thanks for the posts Aaron.

 

Use petroleum jelly for the coolant seals. When putting the glue on the apex seals make sure you get it off the sides of the seals or you will have a ruff time. Have ALOT of paper towels and watch out for the rotor housing edges,side seals, and oil rings they are very sharp.



Also go with 2mm RA seals and save the time and money. There are post everywhere debating 3mm vs 2mm. Also go to nopistons.com and their engine building page


David

 

Glue on the apex seals?????????

 

LOL the little corner boot

 

you don't need to glue the seals, some people recommend it but i don't.

 

Well what ever works for you I just find it easier

 

gluing is only for install anyways, its goign to melt away anyways. u glue the corner (boot) part of the apex seal and then install. correct?

 

just another spot for carbon to deposit on, i find it easier and safer to assemble engine without the springs on the seals during assembly.

 

I was talking about gluing the 2 or 3(mazda) different apex seal parts not gluing the springs on the seals i would not recommend that..... Yes it breaks loose when you turn it over and then melts away

 

thanks for all this help guys....any little tricks that you all have ran into feel free to talk up and let me know what I am jumping into. The little things that come up are the things that worry me. Now are you all using a micrometer to make sure clearances are correct on everything... and are the clearances given to me in my Haynes manual sufficient for this engine I am puttting together???

 

haynes specs are fine for a rebuild but i wouldn't use their guide for checking the rotor housings, use the video for reference in that area or ask on the forum.

 

Who makes a really good rebuild video

 

atkins

 

Yeah I found one and I think I am going to go with that. I'm thinkin should i buy the Overhaul rebuild kit w/ all the upgraded gaskets and seals or just replace the rear rotor or housing. I feel quite a bit safer making the engine pretty much bulletproof by getttin the overhaul kit with the RA 2mm Apex Seals, FD Corner Springs and etc. What do u guys think?
My engine had a blown rear rotor and all 3 apex seals were taken out.

 

FWIW I have seen first hand the port work from Rotor Sports and they had done a great job on the irons and rotor housings I have seen. It was their "stage 3" port as well. The car felt great throught the entire rev range and no loss of torque from butt dyno was detected with the exception of maybe idle to 2000 rpm loss. (stage 3 port, stock turbo w/ Racing Beat turbo back).

Do some searching on rebuilding in here and nopistons.com and draw your own conclusions on what parts and how to assemble. Asking in a single thread will not teach you or give nearly the amount of information that you could get by searching, reading it all... takng it in and making your NOW INFORMED decissions.

~Mike............

 

SevenDreamz, send me your housings and I will do the best streetport on them you've ever seen.

B