With all of my problems, I thought I'd just make 1 thread to cover them all...

Ok, trying to start the car. 1st, the engine isn't building compression (or the gague isn't showing it at least). The Tach IS bouncing. I don't hear the fuel pump coming on, or smell gas when I took the bottom sparkplugs out. Upon installing my wiring harness, I found the Left-most connectors right-side was busted ( in a .: pattern), leaving 2 Black/Brown wires, and 1 Brown/Blue wire w/o connections. After looking @ the FSM, I plugged the 2 Black/Browns into the : plugs, and the Brown/Blue into the . hole.

So, current status; Car turns over, Tach bounces, Oil Pressure Gague goes nowhere, and I don't think I'm getting any fuel. If anyone can remind me of a connector or something, it would be appreciated.

(yes, I plan to get a new engine harness very soon)

 

Anyone?

 

I agree. Sounds like fuel.

Time to do some injector tests. Check the resistance on the injectors. S4 or S5? I think S5 has like 2-3 Ohms and S5 has 12-13. But I could be wrong, been a long time. If all the injectors have decent resistance, check the connections.

FSM has a wire diagram that will tell you which plug goes to which. Shouldn't cause this problem though, but do it just in case.

If that works out, then you need to actually test for fuel coming out of the injectors. Pull an injector out of its socket, leaving it in the rail. Place a paper towel or something under the injector so you can see the fuel come out. Have someone crank it over and watch for fuel. Make sure its away from any spark or flame, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case

Come back and post the results.

 

The injectors are the ones that came out of it in the first place, the Ohm load is correct. I know that the injectors arn't getting fuel, but their harnesses are DEFINATLY plugged in... could it be where the harness was smashed?

 

IT CRANKED!

Wouldn't hold an idle for CRAP. I think it needs some higher octane gas in it (it's sat, full of 89 or so, for over a year) and the TPS fondled with. No oil needed in the combustion chambers, but I'll probably put more in it.

Is the S4 & S5 TPS adjustment procedures the same? Another thing... for the few minutes it cranked... it didn't smoke. With as much oil as I put in it, it damned well should. Also, the check engine light was on the entire time, is that normal?

 

So the problem was it wasn't cranking, or it wasn't firing up? Cause not cranking has nothing to do with fuel.

Did it start up yet? Or does it just crank over without firing up?

 

no firing up... it ran for a few seconds, but that's about it

 

In order for it to run even for a few seconds it needs some sort of fuel. Unless you sprayed it with starter fluid or something. Did you test for fuel in the injectors yet? not really much you can do til you are sure its getting fuel.

 

It started, it's getting fuel. I'd guess the timing is the problem now. 2 timing marks on the main pulley. I tried it on both of them... no cranking. Plus, I was doing better with the hard idle screw in the stock location.

... I'm begining to think "V8 Swap"

 

When you are rotating the main pulley clockwise, use the first notch you come across as the starting point.

 

I'll set the timing w/ that, and put some oil (less than a tablespoon) in the combustion chamber. Kevin says it should help build compression.

 

Aye, it should. But you're not sure if lack of compression in the problem yet are you?

And I think you are misusing the word cranking. Cranking simply means when the starter turn and the engine moves. It has nothing to do with actually running, just turning over.

 

HAILERS is your man for ID'ing those mystery wires. PM him and let him know you'd like his help.

 

Did you ever fix this???

 

Sounds like you've already talked to him about it...

 

I just need to build some compression w/ it. It starts up every time I add oil to a chamber.

I took yesterday off, today, I need to get it to operating temp and set some electronics.

 

When was the last time you changed the oil? If you have to add oil to the plug holes to help buildup compression it sounds like there's fuel in your oil which is thinning the oil and decreasing the probability of your internal surfaces sealing and you'll never get compression without those surfaces sealing.

You said at the start of the thread that you weren't even certain if the pump was sending fuel:
So check that the pump is sending. The easiest way to do this is find the fuel line that goes from the fuel filter to the engine, pull off the end at the engine and have someone turn the ignition to start for a few seconds. Fuel should pour out. If it doesn't, check your pump and maybe replace your filter.

If it does, go after your injectors like people are telling you.

 

Amur... I'll clear this up for you, because you don't seem to understand the situation.

I just rebuilt this motor. It has the compression ANY rebuild w/ used rotor housings would have. When I didn't hear the fuel pump; that was because a plug wasn't plugged in.

The only problem now is, compression is low enough, I have to add oil (a common thing when starting a fresh rebuild {mine has 0 miles}) to gain compression for it to start.

It as STARTED before, and staied running for about 2 minutes. It ran fine. It just needs to run some more; unless a builder tells me otherwise.

 

That sounds better.

So fire it up and run it for a few hours.

And I'd suggest throwing premix in with your gas to help keep yourself covered.

 

WOOHOO!

Car runs! However... the check engine light is on. Is this normal? If not, could it be the wiring harness?

 

Time to pull out a code checker

 

I hooked the ground wire to the green 1PIN... and the engine light just staied on, went of, and came back on solid... what's that mean?

 

Here's how it works. When you ground the 'initial set' connector, then go in the car and turn the key, the check engine light will remain light up and then go out, soon it will light up again, this is when you start counting. If it's a short blink it stands for one, if it's a long blink it stands for 10, so for 13 it would be, long short short short, big delay with no blinks, then it'll move onto the next, when it's done with the codes, it will repeat itself.

 

Well, when it came back on, there were no flashes. It was solid for over 40 seconds.

 

in that case, I have two ideas:
1) you didn't ground the connector properly/it came loose/it's not working
2) you have no errors