I've had my SAFC on my FC for a few days now and I've been playing with the settings. It's setup as 06in06out, flapper, up arrow, 4 cylinder.
low40 high80 throttle.

throttle points/low setting/high setting

1500 / -3 / 0
3000 / 0 / -8
4000 / 0 / -8
5000 / 0 / -7
5500 / 0 / -5
6000 / 0 / -6
7000 / 0 / -5
8000 / 0 / -3

This tuning is done with a volt meter reading off the O2 sensor(not the most acturate thing, will dyno next month) in 4th and 5th for low, mid range and 3rd, 4th gear when tuning high end.

What I did was watch the O2 sensor reading as I climb the rpm.
Stock settings, the readings were .9v to .93v across the whole band.
With the settings above, low end (1 to 3k) voltage is .87, midrange (3 to 5k) is a steady drop from .87v to .84v, high end (5k-8k) is steady between .87v - .89v.

After the settings, my butt dyno tells me that it has slightly better pull from 3500 rpm up and it'll redline in any gear quicker compared to stock.

I have a question.
Flames = rich. My car flames like crazy (able to burn spoiler when let of at 8000rpm in 4th), so is it a good idea to lean the car out until the flames are gone and maybe only a single pop is left?

Thanks

 

i used below 98 for lo throttle and 99 for high throttle so it is only hi throttle when pinned. My settings for my correction points are different, i am adding fuel above 3500, since i satrted using 87 octane the flames have been reduced. Why are you taking away at higher rpms, am i doing it wrong, but when i tuned it i used a a/f meter( that's what RP told me to use) to keep it in the first rich light everwhere except idle. at idle i turned the fuel down so that it is about the last 3rd or 4th stoich bar. I notice at 3500 where the fuel increases, i get a little kick in acceleration.


Important question. did you do any internal mods to be able to wind up to 8000 rpm, did u increase oil pressure at all? also, mine sometimes f#$%s up when i take it that high, it will bogg out at like 76-7800 i will shift and the crazy popping out the exhaust and huge flames, it feels like the car shuts down until the rpm get down to like 3000 and then everything is normal again. No one has told me anything of value except to shift at 6800 onstead, but the i might as well go buy a crappy ford engine if i wanted that low of shifting


sorry about the crazy long post

 

I am assuming you are running a series 4 NA rite? Your redline is at 7k RPM. I have a series 5 NA, my redline is 8k, so I can take it over alittle bit sometimes.

As for the A/F meter, it's the same thing as me reading off the O2 sensor. Just that you get pretty lights and I get the actually value.

The NA rotary runs rich across the RPM, probably 12:1 A/F ratio from the .9v that I got. Lean makes power, so leaning it out alittle is ideal.

As for your hesitation at 76-7800 RPM with flames, you are running TOO RICH! Try leaning it out instead of adding fuel.

 

thanks for the feedback. how much leaner should i take it, should it be stoich or into the first rich light. My car was doing that **** at 7800 rpm even before my s-afc, one mechanic thought the fuel was getting cut off in the rear rotor, but i don't know, he saat at a mazda dealership for 5 hours reading shop manuals but found nothing.

 

Do you know what is the voltage the O2 senser is giving at the first rich light?

BTW, do you think your injectors are direct?
What are the specs and mods on your car?

 

86 gxl

mazdatrix full dual exhaust
no airpump
no ps
rotary pro pak
s afc
12lb flywheel
ram air intake(home made cold air)
rp underdrive pulley set

i don't know what u mean are the injectors direct, they are the way mazda gave them to me

 

haha, sorry, direct = dirty

Anyways, are your 5,6th ports working with the cat off?

 

Got newer settings

1500 / -3 / 0
3000 / 0 / -8
4000 / 0 / -8
5000 / 0 / -7
5500 / 0 / -6
6000 / 0 / -6
7000 / 0 / -6
8000 / 0 / -4


The top end is alot stronger with this setup.
Am I running too lean on the top?
O2 senser saids 8.2-8.5 from 6-8k RPM

Thanks