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Hey guys, I thought I would share with you guys a roll center correction I made for my car. Sorry I don't have pictures of the steps I took. Just a finished product. I saw another one that was made and designed it similarly.
-1/2 chromoly steel cnc water jet cut and cnc bent body
-tig welded chromoly cups that holds in my replaceable fk spherical bearing
-modified bolt that had been machined for bearing movement and modified to fit factory spindle with no modifications
-stainless steel spacer
Welded with a machined heat sink so the cup wouldn't get too distorted
Car on a 4 post lift. I wonder how it would look without the roll center correction. The picture was taken at a slight slant , so it's hard to see how parallel it is
Last edited by GrossPolluter; 11-17-15 at 11:57 PM.
This is how low my car is with shine fenders and 17x9 , 255 40. Shine fenders sit lower, so stock fenders would have even more of a gap. Not super slammed. Now I really wonder how my control arms would look without the roll center correction
I have Mazdatrix bump steer end links on my manual rack. I will be using them
with this kit.
The Mazdatrix endlinks need to be tapped deeper on the tie rod side to work correctly, but after that they are good.
After reading this, I bought some material to make my bump steer. The ones in the picture I bought for too cheap. It's not that I'm not expecting them to last long, which they probably won't, but they bind before I get to full lock
So if anyone is interested, I have a few to sell. I will not be making more of them. It took a long time to make trying to use high quality components. I got a few people asking to make it longer for more camber, but there would be a small sacrifice for fender to the wheel clearance. Not enough peole that actually road race and drift their cars and interested in handling performance vs big single turbo upgrades. I guess its a rotary thing. I've had people ask me what roll center was! I'll leave it at that
That is a possibility. But I would need a deposit so people wouldn't back out.
I ran into issues when I already had to much invested in it. The fk bearing cups I purchased had 0.025" movement up and down when in the cup. It was a little much imo. I was able to find these other cups that only had 0.010" movement, but the way the cup was cut, the bearing would not be able to have full movement. So I ended up even having to get the cups machined down more.
After all the nickels and dimes, the price added up, and had these roll centers out for almost 6 months and only sold a few. One got damaged in assembley process, one went to me, I traded 3 of them for a part I needed, and I sold 4 so far. I would have to really add everything up. I may consider it.
Not to mention I remember awr ones selling for $350, when I saw them on their website. Theirs did not have much roll center correction
Last edited by GrossPolluter; 02-11-16 at 09:40 AM.
Just got mine in the mail today, I wasn't honestly sure what to expect with them. BUT HOLY **** THESE THINGS MEAN BUSINESS! Banana for scale obviously,
Just got mine in the mail today, I wasn't honestly sure what to expect with them. BUT HOLY **** THESE THINGS MEAN BUSINESS! Banana for scale obviously,
Thanks. I made them .5" thick because the thickest part of the factory ball joints is 1/2" also. Also , I knew that people using them were going to track their cars, drift, or autocross, so I sacrificed a little weight 3/8" vs 1/2" for strength
I have a question: Has anyone plotted the stock FC mounting points into a 3D suspension geometry program? I'd like to know where the moment centers and the roll center are at stock. IE: How bad is it? Or is the philosophy here just to put the tie rods parallel to the lower control arms and that's it?
not that I know of. I made these because I wanted to improve it. Unfortunately there is no adjustment on my kit. Making diferent sized spacers you could stack everything differently but it would take a lot of time and money.
I just wanted to improve and restore the lost roll center. Especially since macpherson strut suspensions want a lot of camber. So these also help me minimize camber loss. I also wanted to improve the roll axis
11-17-15, 11:48 PM
