Ok guys hers the deal, i got my engien rebuilt with new housings and all new seals, it now has 1200 miles on it, driven mostly on the highway, but with constant up/down shifting and varyign rpms to simulate street driving.

Variables:
1) i was told it should be done while the car is warmed up and it was pretty cold. I did the test about a half hour after a ten minute drive, the temp guage was at absolute cold and the block was barely luke warm.

2) the batery volatge was just below 12 when i did the front rotor and about 9/10 when i did the 2nd.

3) the compression tester had a leak and wouldnt hold peak very well so we had to watch the bounces even when it was set to hold peak

Results:

105-110 front rotor
100ish rear rotor

What do you think? If this is good does this mean my rebuild is officially broken in?

 

It's plenty good for a rebuild without new rotor housings. Go drive the car.

 

Do you think the cold and low voltage ect effected the rer rotor reading? And even the front? I kinda expected higher, maybe thats unrealistic.

 

I'd say the battery affected it more than the cold, but you're always supposed to do it when warm.. Listen to hailers, get out there and drive the car

 

LOW VOLTAGE AT THE STARTER WILL EFFECT THE COMPRESSION READINGS. I'LL STICK WITH MY FIRST ANSWER. TRY A COMPRESSION CHECK AGAIN IN ABOUT.......TWENTY THOUSAND MILES. UNTIL THEN, DRIVE THE CAR.

NEXT TIME USE NEW ROTOR HOUSINGS IF YOUR PRESENT READINGS ARE KEEPING YOU FROM SLEEPING AT NIGHT.

WHEN FRONT AND REAR COMPRESSION DIFFER QUITE A BIT, THE CAR WILL not IDLE SMOOTHLY. IMHO YOUR READINGS SHOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH. LOOK AGAIN IN TWENTY GRAND.

 

Hmmm...

Next time read the post?


Anyways, low voltage will cause compression to read lower. The FSM has a graph/scale for what cranking RPM and compression should be expected, so you can use that to gauge your results or perform the test again later. I'd say after 1200 miles your engine is basically broken in.

Were new bearings put in or used?

 

Im almost 100percent positive new bearign werent used.

Though I didnt get an itemized receipt judgeing from the totel and and breaking down what i know was done, there isnt really any room for another charge

$3300+ =

2 new rotor housings - $1400
complete seal kit $800
labor $60 per hour
Instalation with 1 year garantee - $500
used s4 front cover( it was an s5 engine) -$200


How much do new bearings cost anyway?

 

$20.41 a piece for rotor bearings, brand new OEM. And $88.40 a piece for the competition ones with race clearance.

Anyways, only reason I ask is because with brand new bearings I like to see 1300-1500 miles put on an engine before it's considered fully done, that's just me though. If bearings were reused I'd say 1000 is about all you need to consider it done. A good rule of thumb is to also do compression tests along the way every 100-200 miles and once compression stops building (plateaus) and you have used bearings, you're basically done. Maybe go another 100-200 and see if compression changes (but first get an accurate reading).

 

at that price of the rebuild, id use new bearings just so i knwo everything is new????

 

Well maybe they did at that price. The owner told me that the whole motro was shot and I basically neded to replace everything so at that price it was possibly done. They do good work even though theyre customer service is BS. If anyone in the tristate is interested www.rx7s.com