My Paint Project
#1
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My Paint Project
I will be painting the Engine Bay, Wheel Wells, Door Jams & everything in the general area with POR-15 paint and products hopefully in the next couple of weeks.
I will be buying:
1 Gallon of Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and POR-Strip
1 Pint Each of POR-15 and BLACKCOTE (1 pint is said to cover 24Sq Ft with 2 coats)
Latex Gloves, Paint Brushes, Scrapers, Wool Steel, & 220 Grit SP.
Am i missing anything? any suggestions?
Will be posting Before, During, & After pictures later!
I will be buying:
1 Gallon of Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and POR-Strip
1 Pint Each of POR-15 and BLACKCOTE (1 pint is said to cover 24Sq Ft with 2 coats)
Latex Gloves, Paint Brushes, Scrapers, Wool Steel, & 220 Grit SP.
Am i missing anything? any suggestions?
Will be posting Before, During, & After pictures later!
#2
Senior Member
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I'd recommend getting a cheapo 4.5" grinder and a wire wheel... it will make that whole job go so so much quicker... and after having a 4.5" grinder you will find all sort of uses for it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...104&pricetype=
POR15 is good stuff, I just love their products.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...104&pricetype=
POR15 is good stuff, I just love their products.
#3
FC guy
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bronze wool or scothbrite pads instead of steel wool, small pieces of the steel wool pad will come apart and they in itself will rust.
are these areas already rusted that your putting por15 and not just regular paint on them?
The jambs are usually in good shape, some compound and a little elbow grease will get them to come up pretty good, the outcome will look better then a brushed coating.
are these areas already rusted that your putting por15 and not just regular paint on them?
The jambs are usually in good shape, some compound and a little elbow grease will get them to come up pretty good, the outcome will look better then a brushed coating.
#7
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the car is still in great shape, no rust! The body of the car is originally silver and will be painted black soon. i figured id do the jambs for the hell of it since i will have left over paint from doing the weel wells, engine bay etc. POR-15 is a self leveling paint so there will hopefully be no brush marks! thanks for the tip i will definitely get bronze wool or sotchbrite pads.
-Sean
-Sean
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#8
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I will be painting the Engine Bay, Wheel Wells, Door Jams & everything in the general area with POR-15 paint and products hopefully in the next couple of weeks.
I will be buying:
1 Gallon of Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and POR-Strip
1 Pint Each of POR-15 and BLACKCOTE (1 pint is said to cover 24Sq Ft with 2 coats)
Latex Gloves, Paint Brushes, Scrapers, Wool Steel, & 220 Grit SP.
Am i missing anything? any suggestions?
Will be posting Before, During, & After pictures later!
I will be buying:
1 Gallon of Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and POR-Strip
1 Pint Each of POR-15 and BLACKCOTE (1 pint is said to cover 24Sq Ft with 2 coats)
Latex Gloves, Paint Brushes, Scrapers, Wool Steel, & 220 Grit SP.
Am i missing anything? any suggestions?
Will be posting Before, During, & After pictures later!
I'd recommend getting a cheapo 4.5" grinder and a wire wheel... it will make that whole job go so so much quicker... and after having a 4.5" grinder you will find all sort of uses for it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...104&pricetype=
POR15 is good stuff, I just love their products.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...104&pricetype=
POR15 is good stuff, I just love their products.
the car is still in great shape, no rust! The body of the car is originally silver and will be painted black soon. i figured id do the jambs for the hell of it since i will have left over paint from doing the weel wells, engine bay etc. POR-15 is a self leveling paint so there will hopefully be no brush marks! thanks for the tip i will definitely get bronze wool or sotchbrite pads.
-Sean
-Sean
As for the jambs, I wouldn't use anything but an AUTOMOTIVE primer. You're painting an auto, why use anything else? If you don't know what you're doing when it comes to paint, don't do anything. Let a pro deal with it all.
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You obviously haven't been around/painted cars in the past.
I used scotchbrite on my engine bay after I cleaned it, pressure washed it, degreased/dewaxed it. Then I hooked up the little air comp powered pressure washer, put the siphon end in a gallon of 50/50 diluted Simple Green and went to town with the scotchbrite. Then I degreased again and painted.
If your goal is to hog off as much paint as possible and you don't car about removing all the factory e-coat, then by all means - get the some 80g on a 9" disc and have fun.
If you're smart, and you can, and you want to save the e-coat, a DA with some 220 - 400 and then block the rest down is a good way to go.
Perhaps Classic-Auto can chime in here as we all know he is a pro and I don't know anything because my car is still on jack-stands
#13
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You obviously haven't been around/painted cars in the past.
I used scotchbrite on my engine bay after I cleaned it, pressure washed it, degreased/dewaxed it. Then I hooked up the little air comp powered pressure washer, put the siphon end in a gallon of 50/50 diluted Simple Green and went to town with the scotchbrite. Then I degreased again and painted.
If your goal is to hog off as much paint as possible and you don't car about removing all the factory e-coat, then by all means - get the some 80g on a 9" disc and have fun.
If you're smart, and you can, and you want to save the e-coat, a DA with some 220 - 400 and then block the rest down is a good way to go.
Perhaps Classic-Auto can chime in here as we all know he is a pro and I don't know anything because my car is still on jack-stands
I used scotchbrite on my engine bay after I cleaned it, pressure washed it, degreased/dewaxed it. Then I hooked up the little air comp powered pressure washer, put the siphon end in a gallon of 50/50 diluted Simple Green and went to town with the scotchbrite. Then I degreased again and painted.
If your goal is to hog off as much paint as possible and you don't car about removing all the factory e-coat, then by all means - get the some 80g on a 9" disc and have fun.
If you're smart, and you can, and you want to save the e-coat, a DA with some 220 - 400 and then block the rest down is a good way to go.
Perhaps Classic-Auto can chime in here as we all know he is a pro and I don't know anything because my car is still on jack-stands
#14
FC guy
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if the jambs are clean the last thing you want to do is strip the paint.
Scuff it and clean it, and dare I say- use spray cans instead of a brush on coating.
No self leveling brush on paint will come out like spraying, and being that the jambs are not a large area they wont come out all that bad if you spray can them.
I would suggest though you let the guy painting the car paint the jambs, if you take the car apart and you scuff the jambs you might actually save him some time over masking the jambs when he sprays it.
Scuff it and clean it, and dare I say- use spray cans instead of a brush on coating.
No self leveling brush on paint will come out like spraying, and being that the jambs are not a large area they wont come out all that bad if you spray can them.
I would suggest though you let the guy painting the car paint the jambs, if you take the car apart and you scuff the jambs you might actually save him some time over masking the jambs when he sprays it.
#15
RE_p Rotors
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i did the por 15 whole process under the hood of my t2 and it came out very good. i did the 3 step process but in the end still have some brush streaks, i also painted it in mid 30 degree weather though. i would wait till next week when the temps are warming back into the 50's in stafford, makes everything so much easier instead od freezing your *** off and waiting 3-4 days to dry
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