I'm going turbo, its the torque I crave . I don't drive my car enough to make it unreliable, so I'll be **** .

 

thats the spirit!!!

 

You got that right.....14 PSI !!!!!!



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...port_turbo.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tor_in_car.jpg

 

I spent about 3500 putting a 13b-re into a 90 base. I bought the car cheap with a bad motor in good shape with the intention of just rebuilding the original motor. I probably have about 7k into the entire car incuding upgrading the brakes, the cost of the car, the cost of destroying a one 13b-re engine due to crank trigger noise the T2 rear end musting wheels etc. I'm still using stock turbo's though.

If I could do it again I would have bought an FD. There are many nearly complete project cars that go for way less than the cost of parts. My friend just bought a silvia conversion that has more than 15k in reciepts for 5K, with a 750 HP dyno sheet.

 

Well I suppose I stand corrected. So if I were to do this with my N/A, do I keep the port sleeves and air pump?...how about intake mods?.....I have already done the throttle body mods. Am I missing out on previous threads about this topic?

 

As I say to a lot of people asking this, if you have to ask, don't do it. I literallly get up to 10 PMs a day with questions like these and the answer is always the same: read the FAQ and look at the big writeup on my website. This covers turboing the NA with the stock NA intake manifolds and exhaust spacer. There are many ways things can be done including modifying the TII intake manifolds to fit.

Longs story short is that you cannot keep the aux port sleeves because the actuators will not fit (unless you remote mount them and use bicycle cable to run the ports). The airpump is only needed if you have to run a cat.

 

well i think for now i decided to sit on it, til the winter... when i wont be drivin it and then ill make my decision i suppose. (which im leaning towards doing, but its still up in the air til then).





*just a little side note,

aaron cake, i dont know how you know so much man, thats gotta hurt your head sometimes lol

 

hell yeah 14PSI>!!!
i run my car HARD with 14LBS. of boost on a T04B...................



daily!!!

 

I read the FSM. After that, it's just experience...

 

Aaron might seem harsh sometimes but if you listen to him he right MOST of the time....i think he secretly worked in the factories building these as a kid when they were making these cars!!
LOL
(better than making the NIKE shoes..)

 

If you want it to be reliable start with a standalone fuel pump and injectors , it will last you 200.000 miles on a fresh engine mines going on 203.000 and now I have a npr isuzu fmic

 

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=37694

 

If you want a Turbo charged RX7 then it'll be much cheaper to find a factory Turbo car and restore it. The RX7 is a well engineered machine and it was engineered around its power plant. Changing the engine to turbo isn't all that's required to upgrade your car to turbo. You'll come out $$$ ahead by starting with a car factory set up for turbo.

 

That's probably the best advice. A full standalone will give you the control over fuel and timing that the NA ECU (or the TII ECU) will never allow. If you know how to tune a car, you can make a standalone run worlds better then the stock ECU, get good mileage yet still make all the power you want and you don't have to worry about lean spots created by the stock ECU.

This makes a steep learning curve and there are a LOT of standalone equipped cars that are running around on the base map (and blowing engines!) because of it.