My list of problems...
07-25-02, 06:22 PM
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My list of problems...
Okay, here's the dealio
I have a 1987 Turbo II. It has a little over 200,000 miles on the car but about 100,000 miles on the engine. It has no modifications. I recently replaced the suspension (Tokico HP struts, RB springs, RB Sways-front/rear). I want to get this ride back to at least stock performance, if not more (but not much more for now). I’m going to add RB full exhaust (down pipe, silencer, Y pipe, cans, and get headers next summer). I also want to get a cone filter but am concerned about the air/fuel mixture ratio. I’m trying to get up to speed with all the acronyms and where everything is. I can do minor repairs/work, but I live in an apartment complex that doesn’t allow heavy mechanicism (probably not a word but should be
)But for now, here’s what I need to remedy:
Idle
The car idles fine during warm up (1500 rpm), but then goes down to about 300-500 rmp and kind of bounces till it stalls. I know it needs to be at 750 rpm. It sounds like it either needs more air or more fuel? From what I’ve read this has to do with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I’ve check, and tried to adjust the Bypass Air Control (BAC) valve to no avail. Also, I’m thinking maybe it’s a vacuum line? Were to start?
Throttle/Gas Peddle
It seems the pedal is a little stiff and not as responsive as I would like it to be. My GXL is a LOT softer and much more responsive. It feels like the gas has a lag in the system? Once it gets flowing it’s okay. But during shifting it lags. Does the cable need to be lubed or replaced? Or does this sound like something else?
Horn Honks (uncontrollably)
Problem GONE!!! Thanks IceMark for your response and solution and thanks everyone so I could put a search on this problem (apparently I’m not alone). Resoldered CPU.
Poor Gas Mileage
I get crap mileage out of my ride. A full tank (13.5-14 gallons or so [I thought it was supposed to be about 16.x gallons?]) will get me only 200-250 miles per tank! I’m using 91 octane – Mobil and Chevron. My N/A gets about 300 miles per tank. Granted, when I open up on the turbo I know mileage is going suffer, but when I drive casual it still sucks (up all my fuel)!
Oil Burning
I have to keep a steady supply of Castro GTX 20/50 in my car at all times just to feel safe (probably a good thing for any older car). I can really smell it when I park, after driving for about an hour. Is it supposed to burn that much oil? Compared to my N/A this is way too much! I may have a small leak but do not see any oil stains on the ground (in my assigned parking spot). (NOTE: chicks don’t dig the smell)
Temperature
The car runs warm. It runs cooler in third gear and lower. On the freeway the needle moves to the middle mark and/or a little above. I don’t have a leak anywhere! Could the radiator be clogged or the water pump not pumping enough? I don’t smell any coolant/water from the engine. I still have coolant in my resivior. Could it be that I’m burning too much oil and it’s not keeping my engine cool enough? I also replaced the stock airbox with a N/A stock air box. Are they identical parts? I live in So. Cal. and it’s hot over here in the summer time.
Turbo
This is the first turbo car I’ve owned so I don’t really know what to expect. The turbo has lag (no surprise) but it still hauls ***. I’m not sure about the stock boost gauge and how accurate it is but will probably replace it with a silver dollar (size) looking gizmo inside by the driver’s mirror.
Gauges
What functional gauges are good to have with a TII? I don’t want to look like one of those Honda’s with a digital clock gauge as a filler. I’d rather have a “sleeper” that whoops ***. Preventative maintenance is what I’m looking for, ya know, so I can monitor everything. Any ideas?
Transmission
This isn’t a problem yet but a concern. Shifting in gears seem to be a little spongy. Not to bad at the moment. But it’s not as smooth as my N/A.
Speedometer Cable
I’m missing my speedometer cable so I get this annoying beep. I also understand it messes with the power steering. I’ll replace this soon.
Okay, the list is long (and there's more). This car is a fixer, that I know. I just need to find some solutions and fix them. I’ve searched this site and have learned a lot. Like I said, I’m getting up to speed on the “lingo” but know I have much to learn. I just want to enjoy my TII as much as I’ve enjoyed my N/A. If you have any questions please ask.
Thanks,
Simon
p.s. here’s the car I want to keep alive…
I have a 1987 Turbo II. It has a little over 200,000 miles on the car but about 100,000 miles on the engine. It has no modifications. I recently replaced the suspension (Tokico HP struts, RB springs, RB Sways-front/rear). I want to get this ride back to at least stock performance, if not more (but not much more for now). I’m going to add RB full exhaust (down pipe, silencer, Y pipe, cans, and get headers next summer). I also want to get a cone filter but am concerned about the air/fuel mixture ratio. I’m trying to get up to speed with all the acronyms and where everything is. I can do minor repairs/work, but I live in an apartment complex that doesn’t allow heavy mechanicism (probably not a word but should be
)But for now, here’s what I need to remedy:Idle
The car idles fine during warm up (1500 rpm), but then goes down to about 300-500 rmp and kind of bounces till it stalls. I know it needs to be at 750 rpm. It sounds like it either needs more air or more fuel? From what I’ve read this has to do with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I’ve check, and tried to adjust the Bypass Air Control (BAC) valve to no avail. Also, I’m thinking maybe it’s a vacuum line? Were to start?
Throttle/Gas Peddle
It seems the pedal is a little stiff and not as responsive as I would like it to be. My GXL is a LOT softer and much more responsive. It feels like the gas has a lag in the system? Once it gets flowing it’s okay. But during shifting it lags. Does the cable need to be lubed or replaced? Or does this sound like something else?
Horn Honks (uncontrollably)
Problem GONE!!! Thanks IceMark for your response and solution and thanks everyone so I could put a search on this problem (apparently I’m not alone). Resoldered CPU.
Poor Gas Mileage
I get crap mileage out of my ride. A full tank (13.5-14 gallons or so [I thought it was supposed to be about 16.x gallons?]) will get me only 200-250 miles per tank! I’m using 91 octane – Mobil and Chevron. My N/A gets about 300 miles per tank. Granted, when I open up on the turbo I know mileage is going suffer, but when I drive casual it still sucks (up all my fuel)!
Oil Burning
I have to keep a steady supply of Castro GTX 20/50 in my car at all times just to feel safe (probably a good thing for any older car). I can really smell it when I park, after driving for about an hour. Is it supposed to burn that much oil? Compared to my N/A this is way too much! I may have a small leak but do not see any oil stains on the ground (in my assigned parking spot). (NOTE: chicks don’t dig the smell)
Temperature
The car runs warm. It runs cooler in third gear and lower. On the freeway the needle moves to the middle mark and/or a little above. I don’t have a leak anywhere! Could the radiator be clogged or the water pump not pumping enough? I don’t smell any coolant/water from the engine. I still have coolant in my resivior. Could it be that I’m burning too much oil and it’s not keeping my engine cool enough? I also replaced the stock airbox with a N/A stock air box. Are they identical parts? I live in So. Cal. and it’s hot over here in the summer time.
Turbo
This is the first turbo car I’ve owned so I don’t really know what to expect. The turbo has lag (no surprise) but it still hauls ***. I’m not sure about the stock boost gauge and how accurate it is but will probably replace it with a silver dollar (size) looking gizmo inside by the driver’s mirror.
Gauges
What functional gauges are good to have with a TII? I don’t want to look like one of those Honda’s with a digital clock gauge as a filler. I’d rather have a “sleeper” that whoops ***. Preventative maintenance is what I’m looking for, ya know, so I can monitor everything. Any ideas?
Transmission
This isn’t a problem yet but a concern. Shifting in gears seem to be a little spongy. Not to bad at the moment. But it’s not as smooth as my N/A.
Speedometer Cable
I’m missing my speedometer cable so I get this annoying beep. I also understand it messes with the power steering. I’ll replace this soon.
Okay, the list is long (and there's more). This car is a fixer, that I know. I just need to find some solutions and fix them. I’ve searched this site and have learned a lot. Like I said, I’m getting up to speed on the “lingo” but know I have much to learn. I just want to enjoy my TII as much as I’ve enjoyed my N/A. If you have any questions please ask.
Thanks,
Simon
p.s. here’s the car I want to keep alive…
07-25-02, 06:34 PM
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great looking car good thing the problems are internal
in regard to the oil what climat are you in mine has over 200k on it and it used to guzzel oil by thequart with 20/50 i put 10/30 and it runs great it and clean i might add it still smells kinda bad but that just means i need to get my exhaust fixed try changing grades
in regard to the oil what climat are you in mine has over 200k on it and it used to guzzel oil by thequart with 20/50 i put 10/30 and it runs great it and clean i might add it still smells kinda bad but that just means i need to get my exhaust fixed try changing grades
07-25-02, 07:02 PM
#4
Opinions are like........
Nice car.
I don't have a T2. So here is my worthless response.
Idle: Sometimes you need to replace the TPS if adjusting doesn't work. Make sure all electrical connections are crud free. Vacuum leaks are sometimes difficult to see/hear. Could be the TID are any other rubbery/plastic thingy. Make sure nothing is clogged going to/from the BAC valve. Replace all vacuum lines.
Gas pedal: Definitely lube/adjust the gas pedal/cable/pivot points..........
Poor gas mileage: Change the plugs/o2 sensor/airfilter(ifstock)/fuel filter. If the parts are new, then fix problem with Idle. Make sure a/c(if used) is cycling and that clutch disengages when not in use. Check tire pressure. Get a motorvac fuel injection cleaning. Check timing.
Oil burning: Check/clean/adjust(?) the MOP/OMP. Mine is electrical. Yours is mechanical. Download(or purchase CD) the FSM from http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
or http://www.fc3s.org/
Make sure it is not a leak that is leaking onto the exhaust and burning away(no parking lot spots). Could it be the turbo??
Shifting: Use redline MT90 in the transmission. See the mazdatrix bushing faq/info. Also change rearend oil while your at it. The fluid changes can possible give you another little increase in mpg. Bleed clutch and adjust clutch pedal.
Temperature: Start with belt/thermostat/cap and coolant replacement. Use genuine mazda cap/thermostat. Make sure all shrouds(fan/undercar) are in place. Test the mech fan clutch. And if in the future you plan on power mods, replace radiator with koyo, griffin or fluidyne......
Idle: Sometimes you need to replace the TPS if adjusting doesn't work. Make sure all electrical connections are crud free. Vacuum leaks are sometimes difficult to see/hear. Could be the TID are any other rubbery/plastic thingy. Make sure nothing is clogged going to/from the BAC valve. Replace all vacuum lines.
Gas pedal: Definitely lube/adjust the gas pedal/cable/pivot points..........
Poor gas mileage: Change the plugs/o2 sensor/airfilter(ifstock)/fuel filter. If the parts are new, then fix problem with Idle. Make sure a/c(if used) is cycling and that clutch disengages when not in use. Check tire pressure. Get a motorvac fuel injection cleaning. Check timing.
Oil burning: Check/clean/adjust(?) the MOP/OMP. Mine is electrical. Yours is mechanical. Download(or purchase CD) the FSM from http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
or http://www.fc3s.org/
Make sure it is not a leak that is leaking onto the exhaust and burning away(no parking lot spots). Could it be the turbo??
Shifting: Use redline MT90 in the transmission. See the mazdatrix bushing faq/info. Also change rearend oil while your at it. The fluid changes can possible give you another little increase in mpg. Bleed clutch and adjust clutch pedal.
Temperature: Start with belt/thermostat/cap and coolant replacement. Use genuine mazda cap/thermostat. Make sure all shrouds(fan/undercar) are in place. Test the mech fan clutch. And if in the future you plan on power mods, replace radiator with koyo, griffin or fluidyne......
07-25-02, 07:02 PM
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Thanks, the body is straight. Still has the original paint and in good condition.
It's hot and humid here in So. Cal. It might have a leak in the exhaust, but not sure. I'll be replacing the pipes soon, but only after I get the car to run right.
It's hot and humid here in So. Cal. It might have a leak in the exhaust, but not sure. I'll be replacing the pipes soon, but only after I get the car to run right.
07-25-02, 07:03 PM
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My problems include,
Wheel bearings: all 4 of them are no good and need replacing, the rear ones have play and the passenger front, you can hear metal to metal grinding. THis causes a slight pull to one side during breaking and slight squeel upon initial application of brakes
-vibration when over 130 km/h
AC...
the condensor has a leak, or that is what Canadian tire says. bazaitoyota check your PM
Radio...
Its shot, at full blast it sounds like my walkman at full blast
Paint/Rust
-Rust forming on the edge of roof where it meets the windhsheild.
-stupid passenger side fog lamp points directly at ground.
-stupid screws holding fog light and assembly are rusted on, and the heads are destroyed courtesy of me.
-rust on iner door well (minor)
-rust near drain hole of hatch
-rust on back edge of back wheel well (fender?)
-bad paint chip on front driver side fender
-the gaps on the front don't line up
-previous owner slid into dump truck, + shitty body shop work = head ache for me
-paint is chipping on the front due to shitty body shop work
-overspray due to shitty body shop
Clutch.../tranny
-difficult taking it out of reverse (bad clutch cylinder?) not sure... it will almost make my car stall even when my clutch pedal is fully depressed (****)
-shifting into 3rd there is a slight notch or kink
-clutch pedal squeeks, (tried all sorts of lube on it)
-tranny mount is shot
-still learning how to drive stick.. been a month, its difficult my car has a sport clutch in
-tranny has redline MT90, i managed to fit 3 bottles in.
-diff has 75w90, that stuff makes me want to puke when i smell it.
Engine...
-drink gas like a ****... 13 mpg and that is shifting at 3.5 to 4 k rpm
(changed plugs, changed wires, changed 02 sensor, TPS was done 1 year ago by previous owner)
-exhaust wreaks, thank good ness i don't have to pass emissions
-hairline crack near trailing spark plug whole on front rotor
-engine has 186,000 km
-engine mounts are dead
Electrical...
-if i start playing around with the wires under neeth the dash near drivers left foot/clutch pedal, i can make my driver's side door lose power
-fog lights don't work when car has been siiting around in rain for extended periods of time
-rear wiper doesn't work when car sits in rain for many hours without operation
-clock dims signifcantly when head lights come on and i hit the brakes
-starter makes werid sounds when engine continues to crank for more then a few times and doesn't catch
-power antenna will go up, but won't come back down unless i help it, then the motor will catch it and come down with 3 cm poking out
Brakes...
-rear pads are thin
-front pads 50% left
-squeel (due to bearing not sure)
-ABS pump has very slow leek
the car below in my sig is my baby
Wheel bearings: all 4 of them are no good and need replacing, the rear ones have play and the passenger front, you can hear metal to metal grinding. THis causes a slight pull to one side during breaking and slight squeel upon initial application of brakes
-vibration when over 130 km/h
AC...
the condensor has a leak, or that is what Canadian tire says. bazaitoyota check your PM
Radio...
Its shot, at full blast it sounds like my walkman at full blast
Paint/Rust
-Rust forming on the edge of roof where it meets the windhsheild.
-stupid passenger side fog lamp points directly at ground.
-stupid screws holding fog light and assembly are rusted on, and the heads are destroyed courtesy of me.
-rust on iner door well (minor)
-rust near drain hole of hatch
-rust on back edge of back wheel well (fender?)
-bad paint chip on front driver side fender
-the gaps on the front don't line up
-previous owner slid into dump truck, + shitty body shop work = head ache for me
-paint is chipping on the front due to shitty body shop work
-overspray due to shitty body shop
Clutch.../tranny
-difficult taking it out of reverse (bad clutch cylinder?) not sure... it will almost make my car stall even when my clutch pedal is fully depressed (****)
-shifting into 3rd there is a slight notch or kink
-clutch pedal squeeks, (tried all sorts of lube on it)
-tranny mount is shot
-still learning how to drive stick.. been a month, its difficult my car has a sport clutch in
-tranny has redline MT90, i managed to fit 3 bottles in.
-diff has 75w90, that stuff makes me want to puke when i smell it.
Engine...
-drink gas like a ****... 13 mpg and that is shifting at 3.5 to 4 k rpm
(changed plugs, changed wires, changed 02 sensor, TPS was done 1 year ago by previous owner)
-exhaust wreaks, thank good ness i don't have to pass emissions
-hairline crack near trailing spark plug whole on front rotor
-engine has 186,000 km
-engine mounts are dead
Electrical...
-if i start playing around with the wires under neeth the dash near drivers left foot/clutch pedal, i can make my driver's side door lose power
-fog lights don't work when car has been siiting around in rain for extended periods of time
-rear wiper doesn't work when car sits in rain for many hours without operation
-clock dims signifcantly when head lights come on and i hit the brakes
-starter makes werid sounds when engine continues to crank for more then a few times and doesn't catch
-power antenna will go up, but won't come back down unless i help it, then the motor will catch it and come down with 3 cm poking out
Brakes...
-rear pads are thin
-front pads 50% left
-squeel (due to bearing not sure)
-ABS pump has very slow leek
the car below in my sig is my baby
Last edited by Cheers!; 07-25-02 at 07:07 PM.
07-25-02, 07:19 PM
#7
Lives on the Forum
Re: My list of problems...
Originally posted by SerpentineGX
I have a 1987 Turbo II. It has a little over 200,000 miles on the car but about 100,000 miles on the engine. It has no modifications. I recently replaced the suspension (Tokico HP struts, RB springs, RB Sways-front/rear). I want to get this ride back to at least stock performance, if not more (but not much more for now). I’m going to add RB full exhaust (down pipe, silencer, Y pipe, cans, and get headers next summer). I also want to get a cone filter but am concerned about the air/fuel mixture ratio.
I have a 1987 Turbo II. It has a little over 200,000 miles on the car but about 100,000 miles on the engine. It has no modifications. I recently replaced the suspension (Tokico HP struts, RB springs, RB Sways-front/rear). I want to get this ride back to at least stock performance, if not more (but not much more for now). I’m going to add RB full exhaust (down pipe, silencer, Y pipe, cans, and get headers next summer). I also want to get a cone filter but am concerned about the air/fuel mixture ratio.
I’m trying to get up to speed with all the acronyms and where everything is.
Here's a start...
The car idles fine during warm up (1500 rpm), but then goes down to about 300-500 rmp and kind of bounces till it stalls. I know it needs to be at 750 rpm. It sounds like it either needs more air or more fuel? From what I’ve read this has to do with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I’ve check, and tried to adjust the Bypass Air Control (BAC) valve to no avail. Also, I’m thinking maybe it’s a vacuum line? Were to start?
It seems the pedal is a little stiff and not as responsive as I would like it to be. My GXL is a LOT softer and much more responsive. It feels like the gas has a lag in the system? Once it gets flowing it’s okay. But during shifting it lags. Does the cable need to be lubed or replaced? Or does this sound like something else?
I get crap mileage out of my ride. A full tank (13.5-14 gallons or so [I thought it was supposed to be about 16.x gallons?]) will get me only 200-250 miles per tank! I’m using 91 octane – Mobil and Chevron. My N/A gets about 300 miles per tank. Granted, when I open up on the turbo I know mileage is going suffer, but when I drive casual it still sucks (up all my fuel)!
I have to keep a steady supply of Castro GTX 20/50 in my car at all times just to feel safe (probably a good thing for any older car). I can really smell it when I park, after driving for about an hour. Is it supposed to burn that much oil? Compared to my N/A this is way too much! I may have a small leak but do not see any oil stains on the ground (in my assigned parking spot). (NOTE: chicks don’t dig the smell)
The car runs warm. It runs cooler in third gear and lower. On the freeway the needle moves to the middle mark and/or a little above. I don’t have a leak anywhere! Could the radiator be clogged or the water pump not pumping enough? I don’t smell any coolant/water from the engine. I still have coolant in my resivior. Could it be that I’m burning too much oil and it’s not keeping my engine cool enough? I also replaced the stock airbox with a N/A stock air box. Are they identical parts? I live in So. Cal. and it’s hot over here in the summer time.
This is the first turbo car I’ve owned so I don’t really know what to expect. The turbo has lag (no surprise) but it still hauls ***. I’m not sure about the stock boost gauge and how accurate it is but will probably replace it with a silver dollar (size) looking gizmo inside by the driver’s mirror.
What functional gauges are good to have with a TII? I don’t want to look like one of those Honda’s with a digital clock gauge as a filler. I’d rather have a “sleeper” that whoops ***. Preventative maintenance is what I’m looking for, ya know, so I can monitor everything. Any ideas?
Unfortunately, it's very hard to hide all of these gauges.
This isn’t a problem yet but a concern. Shifting in gears seem to be a little spongy. Not to bad at the moment. But it’s not as smooth as my N/A.
I’m missing my speedometer cable so I get this annoying beep. I also understand it messes with the power steering. I’ll replace this soon.
I've got lots of info here...
http://fc3s-pro.com/
-Ted
Trending Topics
08-02-02, 04:23 PM
#11
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Re: My list of problems...
Originally posted by SerpentineGX
Okay, here's the dealio
Poor Gas Mileage
I get crap mileage out of my ride. A full tank (13.5-14 gallons or so [I thought it was supposed to be about 16.x gallons?]) will get me only 200-250 miles per tank! I’m using 91 octane – Mobil and Chevron. My N/A gets about 300 miles per tank. Granted, when I open up on the turbo I know mileage is going suffer, but when I drive casual it still sucks (up all my fuel)!
Okay, here's the dealio
Poor Gas Mileage
I get crap mileage out of my ride. A full tank (13.5-14 gallons or so [I thought it was supposed to be about 16.x gallons?]) will get me only 200-250 miles per tank! I’m using 91 octane – Mobil and Chevron. My N/A gets about 300 miles per tank. Granted, when I open up on the turbo I know mileage is going suffer, but when I drive casual it still sucks (up all my fuel)!
Isaac
08-05-02, 06:56 PM
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Originally posted by need-a-t2
i don't believe that the AFM is interchangable, but i could be wrong
i don't believe that the AFM is interchangable, but i could be wrong
Unfortunatly I just found out my engine has low compression
. The mechanic is going to install a fuel kill switch to "band-aid" my starting problem. It's going to cost about $2200 to rebuild the engine - money that's not available at this time.I need to invest in a bottle of Advil
08-05-02, 08:07 PM
#15
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Okay, I did a bone head swap with the Air Flow Meter - they do NOT swap correctly!
Got my compression test back:
Rotor 1:
Bounces from two points of the rotor/housing. Bad Apex seal. Daaayyyuuuuuummm!!!
Rotor 2:
Doesn't bounce and stays at a stead 6.75 kg/cm2. Not great but not that bad (I 'spose).
Got the fuel kill switch, works good. I don't care for "band-aids" though. I guess this will have to do for the mean time.
Just thought I would share that with you all.
Simon
...I need a beer...
Got my compression test back:
Rotor 1:
Bounces from two points of the rotor/housing. Bad Apex seal. Daaayyyuuuuuummm!!!
Rotor 2:
Doesn't bounce and stays at a stead 6.75 kg/cm2. Not great but not that bad (I 'spose).
Got the fuel kill switch, works good. I don't care for "band-aids" though. I guess this will have to do for the mean time.
Just thought I would share that with you all.
Simon
...I need a beer...
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