My Idling is malfunuctioning, or something?
03-05-03, 07:06 PM
#1
brap brap
Thread Starter
My Idling is malfunuctioning, or something?
Anytime I go and hit the brake to stop, the idle drops down to less than 300 rpms or so. If I get off the brake, add abit of throttle, let off it'll start to idle again.
What do you see the problem is?
The car idles fine otherwords - 750-1500 rpm.....
What do you see the problem is?
The car idles fine otherwords - 750-1500 rpm.....
03-05-03, 07:48 PM
#2
Fixed the wheelhop
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Sounds like a voltage problem. Your alternator or battery is going south. Do your headlights dim when you hit the brakes? (or dashlights, or any lights?) Could be a bad ground too.
And whats this 750-1500 idle range? Sounds like a LOT of variation.....
Sweet GSL-SE. What class does it run in? Auto-X or road racing?
And whats this 750-1500 idle range? Sounds like a LOT of variation.....
Sweet GSL-SE. What class does it run in? Auto-X or road racing?
03-05-03, 08:26 PM
#4
brap brap
Thread Starter
bob13bt - Nope. Can't be my alternator, that died about a month ago, and we just had it changed out. At one point, the voltage began to drop alot, but that doesn't happen anymore.
I'm not sure about the idle range, my car.. is just wierd like that I suppose.
The GSL-SE runs in ES autoxing @ Turner Field in ATL, Ga.
J-Rat - I'll have a look at both tomorrow or this weekend (is more than likely the earliest I can make it) and see what happens.
I wonder if all this could be some sort of problems with me not changing the oil? It's almost 2k over due - I need to get that done...
I'm not sure about the idle range, my car.. is just wierd like that I suppose.
The GSL-SE runs in ES autoxing @ Turner Field in ATL, Ga.
J-Rat - I'll have a look at both tomorrow or this weekend (is more than likely the earliest I can make it) and see what happens.
I wonder if all this could be some sort of problems with me not changing the oil? It's almost 2k over due - I need to get that done...
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03-05-03, 11:25 PM
#8
FC Mobsta
Originally posted by christi
bob13bt - Nope. Can't be my alternator, that died about a month ago, and we just had it changed out. At one point, the voltage began to drop alot, but that doesn't happen anymore.
I'm not sure about the idle range, my car.. is just wierd like that I suppose.
The GSL-SE runs in ES autoxing @ Turner Field in ATL, Ga.
J-Rat - I'll have a look at both tomorrow or this weekend (is more than likely the earliest I can make it) and see what happens.
I wonder if all this could be some sort of problems with me not changing the oil? It's almost 2k over due - I need to get that done...
bob13bt - Nope. Can't be my alternator, that died about a month ago, and we just had it changed out. At one point, the voltage began to drop alot, but that doesn't happen anymore.
I'm not sure about the idle range, my car.. is just wierd like that I suppose.
The GSL-SE runs in ES autoxing @ Turner Field in ATL, Ga.
J-Rat - I'll have a look at both tomorrow or this weekend (is more than likely the earliest I can make it) and see what happens.
I wonder if all this could be some sort of problems with me not changing the oil? It's almost 2k over due - I need to get that done...
03-06-03, 11:33 AM
#11
brap brap
Thread Starter
Originally posted by jacobcartmill
christi you drive a rotary and you went 2000 overdue on an oil change? thats blasphemy
christi you drive a rotary and you went 2000 overdue on an oil change? thats blasphemy
03-06-03, 11:53 AM
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
What is over due??? On NA's it is perfectly fine to run them 5K miles between oil changes unless you have flooded it (and then you should change the oil ASAP anyway).
03-06-03, 11:56 AM
#13
Refined Valley Dude
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It has zip to do with not changing the oil (and shame on you for that, btw!) 
It's the BAC for sure. If you're lucky, it just needs some TLC.
Checking the BAC:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=BAC
Cleaning the BAC:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/EM/bac.htm
Btw, are you saying that your idle varies from 750-1500revs??? If so, time to do the TPS.
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
(It's shown being done on a TII, but the technique is the same for NAs.)
You can do the following to make life easier for your charging sys:
It's the BAC for sure. If you're lucky, it just needs some TLC.
Checking the BAC:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=BAC
Cleaning the BAC:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/EM/bac.htm
Btw, are you saying that your idle varies from 750-1500revs??? If so, time to do the TPS.
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
(It's shown being done on a TII, but the technique is the same for NAs.)
You can do the following to make life easier for your charging sys:
Originally posted by hypntyz7
I ran new wire from:
-my battery ground to the chassis using a bolt, a large washer, and ground down to the sheetmetal.
-my batter + to the starter terminal, clean the starter connection when doing so
-my alternator + post to the starter + terminal
-the fusebox main power supply (underhood 80A fuse) to the starter + terminal
-the starter frame(engine) to the chassis, cleaning and grinding both surfaces down to bare metal.
Then I ditched all teh stock wiring left over. You have now rewired your entire main charging circuit. Simple isnt it?
IF youre keeping stock battery location, do the above with new battery cables and terminals. Keep the connections clean. Replace every wire and connector(total cost less than $50) and you'll get a LOT of power in return.
So, what do I see now?
daytime cruise 15vdc on the highway, 14.5 at idle, 14+ at night with all the lights on. BIG difference. Helps a lot with starting/flooding issues on the engine too, when the starter can actually kick the engine over pretty hard, it starts on teh first rotation.
I ran new wire from:
-my battery ground to the chassis using a bolt, a large washer, and ground down to the sheetmetal.
-my batter + to the starter terminal, clean the starter connection when doing so
-my alternator + post to the starter + terminal
-the fusebox main power supply (underhood 80A fuse) to the starter + terminal
-the starter frame(engine) to the chassis, cleaning and grinding both surfaces down to bare metal.
Then I ditched all teh stock wiring left over. You have now rewired your entire main charging circuit. Simple isnt it?
IF youre keeping stock battery location, do the above with new battery cables and terminals. Keep the connections clean. Replace every wire and connector(total cost less than $50) and you'll get a LOT of power in return.
So, what do I see now?
daytime cruise 15vdc on the highway, 14.5 at idle, 14+ at night with all the lights on. BIG difference. Helps a lot with starting/flooding issues on the engine too, when the starter can actually kick the engine over pretty hard, it starts on teh first rotation.
Originally posted by Amur_
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both to help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.)
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stubmle started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both to help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.)
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stubmle started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
Last edited by Amur_; 03-06-03 at 12:02 PM.
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