My gas mileage!?!?!?!?
04-04-06, 05:17 PM
#6
Learned alot | Alot to go
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Originally Posted by cool_as_crap
dang your lucky. i get nowhere near that 
04-04-06, 07:05 PM
#7
knowledge junkie
Originally Posted by rotorforce
22 is damn good none of my FC's get much and my grand cherokee is worse..
Originally Posted by cool_as_crap
dang your lucky. i get nowhere near that
Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
same here. i ran out of gas last week on my way to the gas station. i got 210 miles to that tank
2) Check/clean/repair all main grounds. If wires are old, replace them (inner wire corrosion)
3) Check/replace O2 sensor
4) Replace stock exhaust & headers, 1 primary high-flow racing catalytic converter
5) Send injectors in for Rebuild/blueprint/flow test
6) Switch to redline synthetic mazda transmission gear oil, redline mazda differential oil
7) set torque on wheelbearings to minimum level
8) If you have an NA, upshift early in heavy traffic (1800rpms in 2nd to 0800rpms in 3rd). Use your engine break allot. In medium traffic shift at 3500 rpms.
Also clean sparkplugs with a sparkplug cleaning brush/solution every 15K miles.
Last edited by vaughnc; 04-04-06 at 07:09 PM.
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04-04-06, 07:17 PM
#8
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^ Listen to this guy, as he covered most, if not, everything.
I'm getting 9mpg at the moment with mix driving....so....this means....TUNEUP!!!!!!
Also a leaking exhaust could cause problems too I believe...
I'm getting 9mpg at the moment with mix driving....so....this means....TUNEUP!!!!!!
Also a leaking exhaust could cause problems too I believe...
04-04-06, 07:32 PM
#11
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I averaged 7.77mpg my last tank of gas...somewhere around 140 miles to the tank.
Then again 1600cc secondaries and 850cc primaries and a rich tune don't help
EDIT: Plus a heavy foot.
Then again 1600cc secondaries and 850cc primaries and a rich tune don't help
EDIT: Plus a heavy foot.
04-04-06, 07:47 PM
#12
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7.77mpg? jesus, my wb doesnt go higher than 12's unless im driving to work in the morning and to tired to boost and i still get 15mpg
im on stock ports though, big difference i guess
im on stock ports though, big difference i guess
04-04-06, 08:00 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by vaughnc
1) Tune-up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, timing, check/clean fuel strainer, coolant, oil, oil filter,)
2) Check/clean/repair all main grounds. If wires are old, replace them (inner wire corrosion)
3) Check/replace O2 sensor
4) Replace stock exhaust & headers, 1 primary high-flow racing catalytic converter
5) Send injectors in for Rebuild/blueprint/flow test
6) Switch to redline synthetic mazda transmission gear oil, redline mazda differential oil
7) set torque on wheelbearings to minimum level
8) If you have an NA, upshift early in heavy traffic (1800rpms in 2nd to 0800rpms in 3rd). Use your engine break allot. In medium traffic shift at 3500 rpms.
Also clean sparkplugs with a sparkplug cleaning brush/solution every 15K miles.
2) Check/clean/repair all main grounds. If wires are old, replace them (inner wire corrosion)
3) Check/replace O2 sensor
4) Replace stock exhaust & headers, 1 primary high-flow racing catalytic converter
5) Send injectors in for Rebuild/blueprint/flow test
6) Switch to redline synthetic mazda transmission gear oil, redline mazda differential oil
7) set torque on wheelbearings to minimum level
8) If you have an NA, upshift early in heavy traffic (1800rpms in 2nd to 0800rpms in 3rd). Use your engine break allot. In medium traffic shift at 3500 rpms.
Also clean sparkplugs with a sparkplug cleaning brush/solution every 15K miles.
My 87TII is a Mild bridgeport with aftermarket turbo and tons of other mods
My 88TII well hasn't seen the road yet but I can promise it wont see 22gpm.
04-04-06, 09:11 PM
#14
I "lost" my emissions....
Originally Posted by rotorforce
My 88TII well hasn't seen the road yet but I can promise it wont see 22gpm.
i hope it doesnt see 22 GALLONS PER MILE!
you wont make it from gas station to gas station
(hitchhike)
Last edited by DREYKO; 04-04-06 at 09:13 PM.
04-04-06, 09:15 PM
#15
Originally Posted by vaughnc
1) Tune-up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, timing, check/clean fuel strainer, coolant, oil, oil filter,)
2) Check/clean/repair all main grounds. If wires are old, replace them (inner wire corrosion)
3) Check/replace O2 sensor
4) Replace stock exhaust & headers, 1 primary high-flow racing catalytic converter
5) Send injectors in for Rebuild/blueprint/flow test
6) Switch to redline synthetic mazda transmission gear oil, redline mazda differential oil
7) set torque on wheelbearings to minimum level
8) If you have an NA, upshift early in heavy traffic (1800rpms in 2nd to 0800rpms in 3rd). Use your engine break allot. In medium traffic shift at 3500 rpms.
Also clean sparkplugs with a sparkplug cleaning brush/solution every 15K miles.
2) Check/clean/repair all main grounds. If wires are old, replace them (inner wire corrosion)
3) Check/replace O2 sensor
4) Replace stock exhaust & headers, 1 primary high-flow racing catalytic converter
5) Send injectors in for Rebuild/blueprint/flow test
6) Switch to redline synthetic mazda transmission gear oil, redline mazda differential oil
7) set torque on wheelbearings to minimum level
8) If you have an NA, upshift early in heavy traffic (1800rpms in 2nd to 0800rpms in 3rd). Use your engine break allot. In medium traffic shift at 3500 rpms.
Also clean sparkplugs with a sparkplug cleaning brush/solution every 15K miles.
04-05-06, 12:42 AM
#17
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Neutral = using gasoline to turn the rotors.
Engine braking = using momentum to turn the rotors as opposed to gasoline.
At least that's what I assume.
Engine braking = using momentum to turn the rotors as opposed to gasoline.
At least that's what I assume.
04-05-06, 02:30 AM
#19
FC Revolution
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When u engine brake fuel is cut to the second rotor or something like that.. so you would use less gass to slow down... same with piston engines...
GIL
GIL
04-05-06, 03:14 PM
#21
Doin a rebuild.
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Yes, above 1000 rpm the engine will fuel cut on coast/decel. About the premixing and oil, we've discussed before how long an engine has to run without oil for it to starve of lubrication and it tended to be belived that a few unloaded seconds mean little (unloaded meaning that the rotor doesnt have the extreme combustion stresses of full throttle).
So, on decel, go in 5th until about 1000 rom, to 4th at 1000 rpm, to 3rd at 1000 rpm, to 2nd at 1000rpm and then put in clutch just as it goes under 1000rpm.
So, on decel, go in 5th until about 1000 rom, to 4th at 1000 rpm, to 3rd at 1000 rpm, to 2nd at 1000rpm and then put in clutch just as it goes under 1000rpm.
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