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my fuel pump relay is clicking

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Old 10-09-09, 05:02 PM
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mazda13B88

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my fuel pump relay is clicking

its clicking and making noises all the time. it makes my battery voltage go up and down too. whats the reason for this? please help me...........lol
Old 10-09-09, 06:16 PM
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HAILERS

 
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Does it do this while driving the car? Or just sitting there in the driveway?
Old 10-09-09, 08:45 PM
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Its suppose to click when you turn the battery on and off
Old 10-09-09, 11:29 PM
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Old 10-10-09, 08:45 AM
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mazda13B88

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it does it while driving and while just sitting in the driveway. it goes away though when i go 60mpf or more.
Old 10-10-09, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rx-711
Its suppose to click when you turn the battery on and off
itll click maybe once or something right. but not all the time i dont think
Old 10-10-09, 03:17 PM
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I'm going to guess that it's not the Circuit Opening Relay clicking.

There is an item called the alternator relay and it's located inside the CPU. When the alternator stops putting out, then that alternator relay pulls in and makes a click noise. When the alt starts putting out again, that alt relay relaxes and makes the click again.

Your problem is alternator related. Either the alternator is going out or the plug on the back of it that has two wires, is not making good contact with the jack in the alternator.

So you can see how the alt and the alt relay are related but how it's difficult to see the alt and Circuit Opening Relay being related. IF the Circuit Opening Relay lost power, then the engine would stop runing at the same time because they are both dependent on the ENGINE fuse to make 'em work.
Old 10-10-09, 05:00 PM
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mazda13B88

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is the alt relay right next to the circuit opening relay. cause i have heard that circuit opening relay clicking and when it starts going crazy it will make my car shut off then c ouple seconds later itll come back on. no warnign light or anyhting coming on when it shuts off either by the way
Old 10-10-09, 06:42 PM
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No. It's near the drivers left foot.

Seening as how you car DOES die when this happens, I'd say .........got me.

It sounds like your losing power to the ENGINE fuse that powers the Circuit Opening Relay and the rest of the power to the ECU. Why? Got me.

You have a lot of keys on your ignition switch? Maybe the weight of the keys is causing the igniton switch to come and go.

The row of fuses that the ENGINE fuse is on is fed by the ignition switch when key is put to ON or better.
Old 10-11-09, 10:45 AM
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ok what about this, when i go 60mph or faster the clicking stops and it drives good???????? i mean im lost too. i dont even know where to start to look for this problem
Old 10-11-09, 02:52 PM
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Alternator belt on tight? Not that that would cause the circuit opening relay to open/close/open/close etc. All a loose belt would do is make the alt output go down.

Main Relay coming and going would not cause the Circuit opening relay to rattle open/close. Would only cause the car to die.

Main FUSE making crummy contact would also make your headlights go off/on and you didn't say they did that.

There is something in common with the alt and the ENGINE fuse. The BLACK wire that feeds the ignition switch is spliced to the large output wire of the alternator. Lose power to the BLACK wire on the igniton switch and you lose power to what is called IG1 bus in the interior fuse box. IG1 row of fuses has the ENGINE fuse. So ...if you lose power to the BLACK wire on the ignition switch, you lose the ENGINE fuse which in turn means you lose power to the Main Relay and circuit opening relay and the engine dies.

Take note here. When I mention BLACK wire a the igniton switch. I mean the color of one of the five wires that connect to the ignition switch pigtail, NOT the color of any wire riveted to the switch itself. The conenctors for the ignition switch are about a half foot in front of the igniton switch itself.

That said, the OTHER end of that BLACK wire is found in the engine compartment. It is about six inces below and inbd of the ENGINE BAY FUSE BOX. There is a connector there and it has a ....black wire in it. Make sure that connector is connected together good 'cause it feeds 3/4 quarters of the fuses in the interior fuse box via the ignition switch.

Also go to the engine bay fuse box and make sure the wires and the connectors at the bottom of that fuse box are not loose.

Also there are two cables on the POSITIVE battery cable. The smaller one FEEDS the engine bay fuse box. IT BOLTS to the front of the engine bay fuse box under a black plastic flap there. Also look at the rear of the engine bay fuse box and in the center is a cable that is held with a bolt. Make sure it's not loose.

I'd suggest removing the positive batt cable before fooling with the fuse box in the engine bay.

Or you might idle the engine. Then wiggle the wires around the engine bay fuse box and see if the engine dies. Might do the same with the plugs for the ignition switch. Also the singel BLACK wire connector I mentioned earlier that is about six inches below and inbd of the the engine bay fuse box. Do the wiggle test first thing.

Answer this question: Do the headlights go off when you experiece this problem? DAsh lights go out or stay on??? Side and brake lights????
Old 10-21-09, 06:53 PM
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so i figured it out. its so stupid. aparently the mass air flor meter controls the fuel pump. maybe when the door opens inside it. so all the wiring diagrams i found on alldata at work didnt show me that the mass air flow is connected to that relay. so when my buddy looked it up he found a diagram i havent saw yet and when it showed a lead coing from the relay that said mass air flow, i went to my car poped the hood, looked at the meter and it was halfway disconnected!!!!!!!!!!! so i pluged it all the way back in and then bam, works perfect. i guess the little clip that holds the connector on broke off or soemthing cause it aint there now. how do u like that huh. im glad i found it out and thanks for all the help.
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