my first 7.
Thread Starter
dark_hippi
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
my first 7.
finally got my $300 '86 gxl 5 speed home so i could start tearing into it and get it running.
after it sitting for, best as i could tell, 7 YEARS, here's where i stand:
as for final goals for this car: i'd like it to be a fun daily driver. no tire shredding, boost snorting 22.8 million rpm launches for me, i just want a car thats more exciting than what i currently drive. i dont really forsee any turbo action, unless i get a HUGE deal on it. i'd much rather it turn well than be all out fast. maybe a decent flowing quiet exhaust, good quality suspension, and a nice set of lightweight wheels. so the order of the day for me is as stands: get it running, then get it sticky. any insight that you guys could offer is great, as i'm still scratching my head, as this is the first foreign car i've ever owned. i've been reading alot on here since i joined, tonnes of info out there. seems hard to narrow it down to exactly what i'm looking for though.
after it sitting for, best as i could tell, 7 YEARS, here's where i stand:
-has no spark from any coil while cranking (insulated glove+long screwdriver to any ground, no spark)
-i do not hear the fuel pump prime when cranking, but the starter is loud, not sure i would.
-tach does not move while cranking, but jumps a tiny bit when you stop cranking.
-low coolant light comes on with the buzzer after ten seconds of the key being on, goes off ten seconds later.
-the security light will blink if the doors and hood are shut (doors not locked). lock the driver side door, light goes out. unlock it, light stays on as long as you hold the key in the unlock position.
-the coils and e-shaft sensor were tested with a multimeter as per the haynes manual and both are within spec., replaced them anyway, same result. also replaced the ecm.
-i checked the underhood fuses, the main was internally corroded, replaced it with a new one. interior fuses tested good.
-front rotor ceems a bit uneven when cranking, one strong pulse (needle bounces to about thirty) and two weak pulses (needle goes to about 25 or less...) keep the valeve closed and it eventually reaches about 90 psi, rear rotor has NO compression. i knew the engine needed a rebuild when i bought it, i'm not worried about that bit.
-power windows, wipers (front and rear) work, headlights and motors work, all turn signals and brake lights work, electric mirrors work, sunroof takes ten minutes to open and another ten to close.
-tried to see if there were any codes stored, used the leds as described by banzai racing, they light up and stay on constantly, however very dim. checked the voltage at the abr slot, read just over 2.
the pile of spares that i've come across/came with the car:-i do not hear the fuel pump prime when cranking, but the starter is loud, not sure i would.
-tach does not move while cranking, but jumps a tiny bit when you stop cranking.
-low coolant light comes on with the buzzer after ten seconds of the key being on, goes off ten seconds later.
-the security light will blink if the doors and hood are shut (doors not locked). lock the driver side door, light goes out. unlock it, light stays on as long as you hold the key in the unlock position.
-the coils and e-shaft sensor were tested with a multimeter as per the haynes manual and both are within spec., replaced them anyway, same result. also replaced the ecm.
-i checked the underhood fuses, the main was internally corroded, replaced it with a new one. interior fuses tested good.
-front rotor ceems a bit uneven when cranking, one strong pulse (needle bounces to about thirty) and two weak pulses (needle goes to about 25 or less...) keep the valeve closed and it eventually reaches about 90 psi, rear rotor has NO compression. i knew the engine needed a rebuild when i bought it, i'm not worried about that bit.
-power windows, wipers (front and rear) work, headlights and motors work, all turn signals and brake lights work, electric mirrors work, sunroof takes ten minutes to open and another ten to close.
-tried to see if there were any codes stored, used the leds as described by banzai racing, they light up and stay on constantly, however very dim. checked the voltage at the abr slot, read just over 2.
-upper intake (complete with iac) and all plastic tubing that goes under it, with a fuel rail and injector
- (3) maf sensors
-e-shaft sensor
-set of coils with ignitors (leading and trailing)
-ecm
-underhood fuse box
-bunch of other misc parts piled in the back of the car.
my original plan was to find out why i had no spark, then after that was remedied, make sure the fuel pump was working. afterwards, pull the engine and do a rebuild (161,xxx miles on original engine). why i've come here today, is to ask if anyone has any ideas as to where i should begin, or if i'm going about this all wrong. is it something simple i'm just not seeing? or do i need to rewire the whole car? i wouldn't mind going aftermarket ignition as it seems like it would be easier to impliment than chasing wiring faults. the guy i had helping me came over one day and hooked up the battery backwards (i have since made sure he'll never touch any of my cars...) could this have caused any damage? does the maf need to be hooked up to get spark? i've started taking things out of the car in order to search for cut wire ends/disconnected plugs/prep for eventual engine removal, so far i've removed the alt, air pump, and maf/airbox and tube.- (3) maf sensors
-e-shaft sensor
-set of coils with ignitors (leading and trailing)
-ecm
-underhood fuse box
-bunch of other misc parts piled in the back of the car.
as for final goals for this car: i'd like it to be a fun daily driver. no tire shredding, boost snorting 22.8 million rpm launches for me, i just want a car thats more exciting than what i currently drive. i dont really forsee any turbo action, unless i get a HUGE deal on it. i'd much rather it turn well than be all out fast. maybe a decent flowing quiet exhaust, good quality suspension, and a nice set of lightweight wheels. so the order of the day for me is as stands: get it running, then get it sticky. any insight that you guys could offer is great, as i'm still scratching my head, as this is the first foreign car i've ever owned. i've been reading alot on here since i joined, tonnes of info out there. seems hard to narrow it down to exactly what i'm looking for though.
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ/Exton, Pa
sweet ride at a good price, hopefully the restoration goes well, pick up a haynes manual its saved my *** a couple of times when i didnt have a computer to check the forum.
what part of jersey you in?
what part of jersey you in?
throw out your haynes manual and download yourself the FSMs. I've found so many errors in the haynes books over time that I don't trust them much anymore.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/
Junior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Sanford
That reminds me of my first rx7. Mine was an 88 gxl. Know it is a stripped down work in progress. I might have extra parts if you are looking. I done a full t2 swap so all my na stuff is useless to me.
Thread Starter
dark_hippi
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
i have the FSM's downloaded as well, and the troubleshooting guide doesnt reaslly lead me anywhere that i have not already checked... the e-shaft sensor as well as all the coils check out ok, but i still get no spark, even after swapping the coils. could not get the e-shaft sensor out of the bolck, as i'm sure it hasn't moved since 1986. where should i start looking to find a wiring fault? the previous mechanic (whom i bought it from) liked to unplug things. alot of things. is it possible to check for spark with the engine out of the car?
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i have the FSM's downloaded as well, and the troubleshooting guide doesnt reaslly lead me anywhere that i have not already checked... the e-shaft sensor as well as all the coils check out ok, but i still get no spark, even after swapping the coils. could not get the e-shaft sensor out of the bolck, as i'm sure it hasn't moved since 1986. where should i start looking to find a wiring fault? the previous mechanic (whom i bought it from) liked to unplug things. alot of things. is it possible to check for spark with the engine out of the car?
and FYI, most people on this forum refer to the eshaft sensor as the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS).
Thread Starter
dark_hippi
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: New Jersey
i'll have to check that. i just thought about it on my way home today. if the relay IS bad, where can i get one? i know its not a standard relay, any way to change it to say a standard bosch relay?
