I was racing last night. ( beat another prelude vtec ) and then I noticed as I rev the car went eh eh eh eh eh and had no power at all yet thier was no smoke. Horrible noises from the front as well as shaking. THe car did idle at around 900 but was real shaky and noisy. The car sounded like it had a bridge port at idle like waht waht waht and blew tons of flame wile jabing the throttle. The car felt like it had 40rwp or something. Anyways what can be the problem. Its a s5 28k on complete engine rebuild and ran perfect before this. I only reved to 8100 that night to.

After turning off the car it starts right up again but just with that bad idle. No smoke

 

check the ignition for spark on both leading plugs.

 

Sounds like how I killed my previous engine. The results sound the same too. You should notice that there is no power below 3k (you have to floor it to get it to rev when in gear). Cement trucks are faster off the line. Mine was pretty drivable, I drove around for 3 months on it with only 1 rotor. You want to remove a spark plug and listen for the chugs when the engine is cranked over. For me, at first this test indicated little (done a few hundred yards from where it blew). Later it was quiet evident what had happened.

 

Yep sounds like one of your rotors are toast, thats exactly what happened to me, although I had smoke on high revs, do a compression test imediatly, running the motor on 1 rotor will only runine the housing and rotor even more so...

 

Geez guys so its not the drivetrain eh?

Then how come it starts well ?

And how come no smoke?

I will check the ignition thnx

My revs hurt everywere not just 3k and seems I cant get passed 5k. Why would a new rotory blow at just 81k rpms??? I hear these cars rev high all day but myne does not. ( mabey ) Im thinking I shouldnt even get a rebuild if I cant even race it hard one night. Whats your opinions? I spent 3k on the engine alone with the rebuild and couple minor oil pan leaks together just 2 years ago.

 

run a comp test, If it checks out OK, the check all your vac lines. how do the brakes feel? Do the feel like the car is off?(in other words, like the brake pedel is real stiff), if thats the case you could have a bad vacume leak on your brake booster or might have one else where.

 

Sounds more like a vaccum leak and only because it idled.

 

Some blown engines will idle...

Your other rotor has enough power/compression to kick the dead one right around...rotaries dont have a lot of cranking resistance you know...

Because oil o-rings have nothing to do with the runnign of the engine (apex seals) which is what you lost...

IT is all dependent on driving habits and maintenance. You can blow a 20k mile motor up just as easily as a 200k one. BTW< the factory installed an 8100 rev limiter (86-88 models) for a *reason*...

That is (to a degree) a misconception. True, the rotary can withstand much more abuse than a piston engine of the same age range, but it can be destroyed by hard driving/high revving (accelerated wear) just like any other machine in the world (an engine is a machine).

Signatures of a blown rotary are 1) galloping/missing start (duh...duh...duh...) 2) sounds like a lawnmower when started, 3) NO throttle response, 4) NO power under load (floor the gas and operate teh clutch pedal to move) , 5) backfiring and flames (due to running pig rich, one rotor not using any of it's injected fuel, the other one running rich to keep them both going)

Pull both lower plugs, have a friend floor teh throttle and crank the ignition for you, and put your finers right by both lower holes, and feel the difference...

 

totally agree with hypntyz7 , my car still chirp the rear tires into second when the tip of my apex seal broke, it idled, and sounded like I had a mean brigde port

 

Mine idled and started fine and would rev to the redline. After 3k it was reasonably smooth. As Roy said, get a compression test so you can stop worrying about it and find out for sure.

Mr. Landers had a pretty good run down of the symptoms. At idle Rev it up to 3k drop it and it should backfire. My exhaust leaked raw gas after I'd shut it down.

Care to see what my engine looked like?
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/jeffguilf...Engine&.view=t

 

Just run a compression test or pull the plugs and listen. Avoids all the random guessing. A blown engine is very obvious when you hear it spin with the plugs removed.

 

Sorry guys I think I forgot to mention that at 7k rpms in 4th gear I heard mad detonation even over all the wind at that speed. I thought it was metal shields at first just vibrating...This happend last week as well at the same rpm and gear although the car was fine and it went on for 10seconds. Man if it was detonation thats one toughf motor. I dont see why it would detonate though. My timing is advanced but I use 91 octane. My filter is extremely close to the header but I have a cold forced air tube from under the car rushing into the filter as well as turbo hood ( wich probly didnt work at that speed) I just dont know. Iwill check the **** out later Its late now

At least I have my engine blowing on video wile beating a prelude Vtec lol

 

Just pulled plugs and no air is coming out of front rotor.

Does anyone know why the front rotor went out before the rear ???

 

von.. was just at autotech.. and geoff said the compression tester should be in by the mid to end of this week..

nick

 

as far as it going bad so quick, how well was the rebuilt engine broken in?

 

just fine