AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

Lets start off by saying that last week my battery dripped acid on my oil cooler lines and it ate a hole in it. We couldn’t find the right part (since it was the weekend) so we “ghetto” fixed it by taking a bottom oil cooler line and cutting it then putting a nylon coated hose on it. Long story short I drove it to work and the oil cooler line blew almost all the way there and leaked all my oil out. So we were at a farm and decided to fix it there. We took high psi hydraulic hose (double steel reinforced) and put it on and clamped it. I had my friend (who had owned a 20b rex) and he was by the hood and told me to start it and look for leaks). I started it and then walked to put tools back. About halfway I heard my friend (underneath the hood) rev it up and up and up. He took it to redline and made it backfire (my car hardly ever backfires!) I took it out for a test run and got it nice and warm. Then he said he wanted to take it out so I let him. I later found out he took it to 140!
Well after that the line was looking good and everthing was fine as could be. We decided to go shooting up in the woods. We loaded the guns and halfway there I looked in my rearview mirror and my car was blowing out blue smoke!!! We pulled over and shut it off. I popped the hood and then radiator was letting coolant out of the reservoir tank and the oil cooler line was dripping a lil oil. We put a lil water in and took off.
My buddy said if I bogged it down (below 2000 rpms) then the smoke would stop. I tried It and it worked somewhat. But when I would throttle on it for the most part it would blow out bluish smoke. Long story short we got up there with the temp gauge reading not even half and with oil pressure slightly decrease as time wore on. We towed it home and it looks like the only oil leak was the oil cooler line…but does this sound like a apex seal problem? Should I check the compression? And what if I start it in a couple days after I get the new part and it starts up fine and doesn’t smoke…will the engine be on its last leg?

Any info helps…I just want to know if I have to look for a new engine… I can provide more info and pics if anyone needs any…

graniteguru

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a fairly serious problem. Rotary engines are very very sensitive to lack of oil. Not only is it a lubricant, but a rotary depends heavily on oil for cooling. Check the compression, I suspect you might have a long term problem. I might guess that you have a decent amount of scoring in the housings.

shika805

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like its time to do a rebuild of your engine.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

F*#$ God D@#%*!!!!

Im putting a damn 13b-rew in there if I start it up and it blows smoke. Men with power have to have more.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

I failed to mention that the oil I put in was what the gave me in a tub...I have no idea what weight of oil it was...??? would that make it smoke?

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

So you lost a **** load of oil, then put an UNKNOWN oil into the engine?

Run away!

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

^ Oil type isn't even a consideration compared to everything else he did. Wow man, just wow.

I'm amazed at how much time and resources people have to do things the wrong way. Just fix it. When it's a major oil leak or coolant problem, you shouldn't have driven the car at all until fixing it. You are risking a destroyed engine.

From the blue smoke it sounds like you have an oil seal leak and have destroyed the engine already. If so, the smoke will never go away at higher rpms and the engine won't keep running for long. Engine rebuilds are $2,000-$3,000 or more. If you do continue driving it with lubrication problems, you risk catastrophic damage that will likely be impossible to rebuild. Search the forums for more information, verify that this really is the problem, and good luck if it is. You can also have a rotary specialist check it out.

Otherwise you need to:
1. Garage the car. Seriously. Unless 3 grand is no big deal to you.
2. If it's just a bursted oil line, you can have a hydraulic shop fix the line and re-use the old fittings. It's only $20-$30 I think. Otherwise you can go to racingbeat.com or mazdatrix.com for good quality stainless steel lines ($200), or to any mazdatrix.com or any Mazda dealer for OEM ($300). You can also get lower quality stainless line for $100, but I hear about those giving out after a year or so sometimes. I wouldn't do it.
3. Check the oil and cooling systems carefully for leaks. Refill the oil with API certified 10w-30 or 20w-50, and add any coolant if necessary.

This sort of thing would be a horrible thing to do to a piston engine too, but ya, rotaries are more sensitive to it. I can't believe this.

Adding a 13b-rew is impractical for most. It's too hard & expensive to make it fit. You're best off finding a 2nd generation turbo engine from someone reputable or buying a JDM turbo engine and rebuilding it (most JDM's are poor quality). With some carefully done upgrades - i.e., read up and understand first so you don't blow the engine - you can still get some ridiculous power that way.

DangerousCrew RX-7

So did you put like used oil in your car or what?

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

yeah car runs fine now. Bought a oem hose and shes been running cherry since

WingsofWar

deffinatly a change in oil pressure was probably the major factor, and the blue smoke was probably the unknown oil you had added. I had a crack in my front cover once which gave me some bad oil pressure and made my engine act as if it were blown. Replaced front cover and put 6k miles on it without problems.

In your case the lines were ghetto rigged.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

yes the lines were ghetto rigged and now they are doing very well. Before I replaced both of them it would drip small amounts of oil at night...now no oil drips at all