Is my coil setup (esp the leading) stock? (pics inside)
#1
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Is my coil setup (esp the leading) stock? (pics inside)
As title really.
I havent looked at another FC engine bay in the flesh to know, but someone looked at mine the other day and said the leading coils are different? He said there is normally just a single coilpack with two leads (as the trailing has), and mine seems to be two seperate ones.
Is he right or?
Reason I ask is I want to upgrade the ign to either a twinspark or something similar, and it would be easier if the wiring\coils was stock still!
Pics-
Leading down behind headlamp
Pic showing both leading and trailing setups (red leading, blue trailing, obv)
I havent looked at another FC engine bay in the flesh to know, but someone looked at mine the other day and said the leading coils are different? He said there is normally just a single coilpack with two leads (as the trailing has), and mine seems to be two seperate ones.
Is he right or?
Reason I ask is I want to upgrade the ign to either a twinspark or something similar, and it would be easier if the wiring\coils was stock still!
Pics-
Leading down behind headlamp
Pic showing both leading and trailing setups (red leading, blue trailing, obv)
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Its a JDM import, but yes, he was saying his had a single dual output one just like the trailing one on mine.
Its odd though and hard to be sure whats going on, as the one still says L1+L2 on it, just like the T1+T2 on the trailing to signify what lead to what plug, but only has one output...?!
Its the wiring to the packs im most worried about, as was thinking of buying a HKS Twinspark just so didnt have to modify any wiring and use their loom, but if the loom isnt stock it will need different wiring anyhow so may as well buy a Jacobs etc...
Its odd though and hard to be sure whats going on, as the one still says L1+L2 on it, just like the T1+T2 on the trailing to signify what lead to what plug, but only has one output...?!
Its the wiring to the packs im most worried about, as was thinking of buying a HKS Twinspark just so didnt have to modify any wiring and use their loom, but if the loom isnt stock it will need different wiring anyhow so may as well buy a Jacobs etc...
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
That does not look stock to me. Someone took two extra trailing coil packs and installed them on two leading ignition moudules. If you follow the signal wires back, I'm sure you'll find a splice somewhere. (Can sort of make it out in the picture.) What is interesting is that the installer reused the stock "signal wire cover" on the coil in the front. That's why it has the L1 and L2 on it.
Interesting conversion to say the least.
Interesting conversion to say the least.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Hmm, interesting.
Not sure what to do now TBH, almost need to get another FC side by side maybe and work out exactly whats different, as it seems to still get ign breakup in higher gears with rich mixtures/water, so id like to add a twin power or something...
Not sure what to do now TBH, almost need to get another FC side by side maybe and work out exactly whats different, as it seems to still get ign breakup in higher gears with rich mixtures/water, so id like to add a twin power or something...
#7
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The leading coil and the trailing coils are physically the same size. Think of a leading coil as nothing more than a trailing coil with 2 posts as that's basically what it is. The plastic cover that says "L1 L2" fits right onto the leading coil as they are the same basic body.
These are 2 trailing coils that someone installed. It is possible to use either a single leading ignitor for each coil with the ouptputs split or you can wire up the trailing system with no direct fire. Yes it is possible to get rid of direct fire on the leadings when using a factory ecu.
These are 2 trailing coils that someone installed. It is possible to use either a single leading ignitor for each coil with the ouptputs split or you can wire up the trailing system with no direct fire. Yes it is possible to get rid of direct fire on the leadings when using a factory ecu.
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#9
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Interesting...The coils look stock but with a modified setup...Does it have any ignition computer that is not visible? Isn't your car the one that was competing in the D1 in Japan? Does it run the stock oil cooler with an additional HKS unit? Nice car by the way. Also from your username are you Greek man?
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The leading coil and the trailing coils are physically the same size. Think of a leading coil as nothing more than a trailing coil with 2 posts as that's basically what it is. The plastic cover that says "L1 L2" fits right onto the leading coil as they are the same basic body.
These are 2 trailing coils that someone installed. It is possible to use either a single leading ignitor for each coil with the ouptputs split or you can wire up the trailing system with no direct fire. Yes it is possible to get rid of direct fire on the leadings when using a factory ecu.
These are 2 trailing coils that someone installed. It is possible to use either a single leading ignitor for each coil with the ouptputs split or you can wire up the trailing system with no direct fire. Yes it is possible to get rid of direct fire on the leadings when using a factory ecu.
please do tell good sir? I have a spare leading and trailing coil pack and am curious as to what sorcery you got going on here
#11
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Thread Starter
Interesting...The coils look stock but with a modified setup...Does it have any ignition computer that is not visible? Isn't your car the one that was competing in the D1 in Japan? Does it run the stock oil cooler with an additional HKS unit? Nice car by the way. Also from your username are you Greek man?
I can't spot an aftermarket ign box anyhwere if thats what you mean (like twinpower, jacobs, etc), and both main ECUs (stock and fcon) are on the passenger side of the interior.
Because of that I want to fit an uprated ign setup, but not sure how hard it will be as they have clearly been modifying the standard setup already!
Yes, its the ex-D1SL/MSC Sexy Knights FC.
It runs a big (long but thin) oil cooler (stock one?) along the bottom behind the intercooler and in front of the rad, and a second one, also large but square a little further up.
So far the oil and water temps stay totally stable even with VERY hard drift use, the setup works well
#12
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Those wires on the ignitor (not the two on the coils), where are they going. It seems in the background they are going to some aftermarket wire crimps. The picuture isn't clear in that area. Or are the wires coming off the ignitors going to what is a stock looking electrical plug?
Ive run two lead coil assy at the lead sparkplug wires in the past. Not worth doing. No positive results at all. No negative results at all either.
Ive run two lead coil assy at the lead sparkplug wires in the past. Not worth doing. No positive results at all. No negative results at all either.
#13
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Ill try take some clearer pics this weekend to show you guys whats up, if nothing else so you can help me decide what to do about improving the spark with whatever theyve done to it...
#16
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I cant see any aftermarket ignition box anywhere, but you can see what looks like non-stock wiring.
Im not good with electrics at the best of times- will it be hard to add an aftermarket ign box on this setup with no problem or will it be more complex than usual? as im running water and ngk10s i need all the spark help i can get.
If you wont be able to tell without better pics of the wires ill take some this weekend
Im not good with electrics at the best of times- will it be hard to add an aftermarket ign box on this setup with no problem or will it be more complex than usual? as im running water and ngk10s i need all the spark help i can get.
If you wont be able to tell without better pics of the wires ill take some this weekend
#17
BDC Motorsports
That's a leading ignitor with two trailing coils it's wired to. They're still firing in waste-spark exactly like how the stock leading ignitor/dual post coil would fire. It's no different than stock in terms of how it'd operate.
B
B
#18
BDC Motorsports
Also, that stainless steel braided hose (or whatever that thing is in front of your intercooler piping), get it as far away from the alternator hot output as possible or you'll short it and potentially cause a fire.
#19
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So, on this setup then, as I want to give the car as efficient ignition setup as possible, and though im using WI, grade 10 plugs, maybe up to 1.5bar boost, and driving the car mega hard on track, I wont be going over about 450ATW.
What would be the best way to upgrade as im getting occasional misses at mo?
Is it worth upgrading the coils as T2 coils seem highly rated?
And for an ign box, am I right in saying a HKS twinpower upgrades leading and trailing at same time and thats well worth while?
Am I right in saying if going for another type of box I need a single box to run the leading and two more for the trailing?
All this igntion stuff is confusing so I'd appreciate expert opinions of you guys on what yould be the ideal upgrades
What would be the best way to upgrade as im getting occasional misses at mo?
Is it worth upgrading the coils as T2 coils seem highly rated?
And for an ign box, am I right in saying a HKS twinpower upgrades leading and trailing at same time and thats well worth while?
Am I right in saying if going for another type of box I need a single box to run the leading and two more for the trailing?
All this igntion stuff is confusing so I'd appreciate expert opinions of you guys on what yould be the ideal upgrades
#20
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Ah. I missed seeing that there is only one ignitor box. So that setup makes little to no sense unless one has time on his hands and just wanted to do something to fill in the time.
#21
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RIGHT THEN...
Heres some CLEAR pics and proper info.
Looks like its running two Coils and TWO ignitors, but spliced off the standard wiring, so they operate at the same time, wasted spark as standard, i guess? Is there any advantage to this?
Look here on these two pics, see the blue wire and brown wire splits to two? That is one brown wire and one blue wire to each ignitor...
Heres a closer look at the wires on the coils/ignitors...
This code is on both coils...
And a couple of other pics of the twin setup...
So, is that simply it? Standard setup but simply spliced in to two single coils and ignitors rather than one twin dual post setup?
Also, I want to run this...
The white wire on the TwinPower normally goes to the black wire on the leading coil, but now there are two! I suppose it just simply need to splice the white wire in to both black wires now? Or?
All help appreciated, as my electrical knowlege is, well, crap
Heres some CLEAR pics and proper info.
Looks like its running two Coils and TWO ignitors, but spliced off the standard wiring, so they operate at the same time, wasted spark as standard, i guess? Is there any advantage to this?
Look here on these two pics, see the blue wire and brown wire splits to two? That is one brown wire and one blue wire to each ignitor...
Heres a closer look at the wires on the coils/ignitors...
This code is on both coils...
And a couple of other pics of the twin setup...
So, is that simply it? Standard setup but simply spliced in to two single coils and ignitors rather than one twin dual post setup?
Also, I want to run this...
The white wire on the TwinPower normally goes to the black wire on the leading coil, but now there are two! I suppose it just simply need to splice the white wire in to both black wires now? Or?
All help appreciated, as my electrical knowlege is, well, crap
#22
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Seems that way. Like the free online wiring diagrams show, the Black/Yellow wire in the two socket white plug is power from the Main Relay and the Green/Yellow wire is the trigger wire from the ECU.
#23
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Cool, well that should make it easier then, just splice it in to both coils and it should be good to go. Cheers for all your help, lets hope all works well...