Kenseto

holy crap what is going on with my car? While i'm driving, after i get a little over 30 miles an hour the car begins to vibrate hellaciously so long as i am giving it gas, but i could be going 100mph and be coasting and there's no vibration....so i doubt it's the shocks/struts gone bad, could it be mounts, driveshaft out of balance?? i'm ever so frustrated

igottafc

iTrader: (6)

does the car feel down on power at all?

casio

proxy error.

casio

is it purely mph dependant or rpm ? seems weird if its mph except for wheel/tire balancing.

andrew lohaus

might be a blown rotor. id get a compression check if it happens whenever you are on throttle.

faster7

I'd be looking at ujoints and the differential.

Kenseto

it's not so much mph dependant, it just seems to be worse after about 30mph while i'm on the accelerator, power feels normal for an N/A (it's an 87 n/a by the way) and i had a compression check not too long ago and both rotors are running good, might be a u-joint

Josepi

If it's load dependent, then look to the u-joints.

Barwick

U.... Joints

Kenseto

aww crap, the U-joints are inseperable from the rest of the transmission aren't they? does that mean i'm going to need to get a new transmission soon? (not a bad thing since i'm swapping in a 13b-RE within two months so a new turbo transmission will do nicely )

Barwick

if it's that bad I wouldn't drive it very often

But get it up on a hoist and do the factory service check on the U-joints... get the FSM and check 'em yourself.

TurboII2NV

if the vibration gets better after a certain speed (30mph)and the rpm are not a factor than its your balancing of wheels and tires (did u ever hit a curb) and it might be your wheel hub

if the vibration is constant after a certain speed (30mph)
than go with driveline components (u-joints, slip joke etc)

good luck

DigitalSynthesis

Swapping in an RE, eh? I think you'll be one of the first to do that. Make sure you read about how the RE does NOT easily fit within the engine bay, etc. first, and get a custom cradle made for you.

And the U-Joints are inseparable from the DRIVESHAFT, not the transmission, so you probably won't need to replace anything but the shaft. Mazdatrix sells shafts with rebuildable U-Joints which is probably what I'd get.

Also check your diff and tranny mounts the rubber might be going bad. But my money is on the U-joints.

$150FC

An RE fits nicely, an REW does not. Isn't that correct?

DigitalSynthesis

Well.. the RE still needs a custom mount made but they are easier to fab than the REW. REW's are virtually impossible to fit. I've still not heard of anyone actually doing the RE swap since a 20B fits with the same exact mounts and its probably not worth the trouble to do an RE swap if you can do a 20B for basically the same effort.

If he were to try an REW I'd say.... good luck.

DigitalSynthesis

I was a bit strong in saying "not easily" though. It fits perfectly fine.... if you have the right mounts. How's that? I just woke up...

That was probably the source of the confusion.

MidnightOwl

I had the same sort of problem in my old integra. The car would flip out and shake like a bastard. I got new tires on it and it was real smooth. When I first got my vert, it would shake like crazy over 60 and if let go of the wheel it would shoot across the highway about 7 lanes. I got an alignment and not a problem anymore. So maybe new tires and an alignment may fix your problem.

TonyTurboII

Not worth the trouble of doing the -RE swap? You havent heard of anyone doing it? For one thing, the RE goes right it, no problems whatsoever, with $250 motor mounts. The 20B is also twice as much as the -RE, so to me, it seems like more of a financial effort. Also, with the -RE I dont have to screw with my steering or sway bars. You dont browse around the board much do you, im always bragging about my motor.

Kenseto

yeah i would love to do the 20b swap but unfortunately I'm at a "Do not pass Go do not collect $200" point in my funds so i'm going with a lighter less cost heavy project (i'm only a freshman in college so i gotta pay for that too, i'll be opening my own product line afterwards specializing in Tuner Performance/Aesthetic parts, with an emphasis on a rotary presence in the product line ) but yeah the RE will be nice, but thanks for all the info, i'll put her up on a hoist and check out the driveshaft and U-joints, hell i'll just do a whole tune-up while i'm at it, it's about time for one anyways

DigitalSynthesis

Doh! Missed your stuff bro. All I know is I got stomped when I suggested the idea and was told to go straight-up TII, which I did. Please note my correction above, however. "it fits perfectly fine... if you have the right motor mounts".

And at the time, I hadn't heard of anyone doing the RE swap although I know its been done. But I hadn't heard of anybody. Now I do!



BTW no I don't browse usually. I'm either searching or looking for people with few posts or bad info and trying to help where I can. I'm no expert by any means, just got my hands dirty with my first complete engine/drivetrain swap and know what I've learned from that. I was just saying that the guy needed to make sure he realized the RE wasn't a literal drop in, and he needs to get his custom mounts made.

I still say if you're going to get RE mounts, just take a small loan and get a 20B. J/k. Your car looks nice dude.

TonyTurboII

If I took out any more small loans I would have had my kneecaps shattered by now

Kenseto

hmm you know i never considered that...but a loan would definitely speed up the process of the engine swap *little dreamy bubbles appear above kyle's head*