"Easier? Only if you don't know what you're doing. More reliable? Possibly, but that depends on how it's looked after and modified. Cheaper to buy? Yep. Cheaper to run? Yep. But hp/$? Nope..."


A think an NA RX-7 is a great deal for the money. They may not have the highest HP numbers, but they handle like nothing else in it's class. What other car can you buy for less than a thousand dollars that looks as good or handles as well? I'm inclined to say very few cars, if any.

Another added benefit is that in comparison to other NA cars like the Honda Civic for example, the easiest of bolt-ons yields great power gains. What other car responds so well to an exhaust system and intake, I can't think of any at the moment.

Still after 16 years the second generation non-turbo looks great, and can be add for bargain prices. Don't get me wrong the T2 can also be had for a great price, but it seems the cheaper the T2 the more and more money needed to keep them reliable and to fix the body damage (they are driven harder on average).

Isaac

 

GUYS GUYS GUYS!!! Why are we beating on each other when those honduh boys are such easy targets!?! Turbo or not its all about the wankel.

 

all i really want to know is how to check my 6 ports.....................

 

If that’s how bad you think turbo lag is, then I seriously doubt you turbo experience claims. Mine certainly doesn’t have a problem. Are you serious?! You need to sit down and do some reading, coz you must be making this up. Stock torque figures for a S5 NA are 196Nm @ 4000rpm. A Turbo can make that much torque under 2000rpm and gets up to 265Nm @ 3500rpm. Modifying either engine will move the torque curve up, but the Turbo will always have more torque, and make it earlier. This is basic engineering fact (not NA bashing), and arguing otherwise is crazy.
Do you have any more BS you’d like to share with the class?

 

Put a blob of grease on the aux port actuator rods and go for a drive. Get it up above 4000rpm a few times. Check the actuators to see if the grease has been moved because the rods have moved. If not, either the actuators are shot or the sleeves are stuck. Like I said earlier, do a search. There’s tonnes of info here on diagnosing and repairing the aux port system.

 

Again NZ, you said stock motor. I will not have a stock motor for much longer. (parts are in the mail)


How to check your six ports without leaving the driveway....

Open your hood. Stand on the right side while motor is running. Reach in and crack open the throttle till you get some revs out if it. Look at 6 port actuators. Did they move? Y/N If they opened you're set. If they didn't then you might want to try liberal amounts of some kind of light penetrating oil. I had one that was so stuck I needed to pound on it with a drift to break it loose.

Hope this helps.

NZ, why didn't you tell him the easy way???

 

I thought the 6-ports didn't open in neutral...

 

How would your computer know what gear you're in?

I don't have the ACV on my car anymore and my 6 ports are actuated off a valved dump from the air pump. (untill I make my own RPM switch and convert to electrical air pump) So on a non-stock system... the 6 ports will open when enough pressure is achieved from the rpms.