Hey everyone, I was driving along with my 88 Gtu, when my little "add coolent" buzzer goes off. I thaught this was odd, since i had just put more coolent in it the other day.

So I pulled off. Coolent looked fine, I added a quart of oil since it was a bit low anyway (but not too low).

The engine seemed to be smoking from the drivers side near the firewall, didnt dig into it and see exactly from where. I didnt let it get too hot, it just started smoking before i turned the car off. I found a ride home, so it's parked in a parkinglot right now.

My best guess is that i need a new thermostat, but i could be wrong. Is there a specific kind that i need to get, what do you guys use?

What else could be wrong? I have no smoking from the tailpipe, so my engine is still good

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jameson


UPDATE:

I got it home safe in my garage

I turned it off halfway there however to let it cool for a sec, but i was dumb and flooded the engine

Thanks to my memory of the Rotary Engine FAQ, I pushed it and dropped the clutch, it started right up.

but it's home, and im happier now.


THere is no smoke whatsoever, so i dont belive that the seals in the engine are bad. no white smoke, no nothing.

 

if u get a new thermostat, get a factory mazda one. they are the best for our cars

 

where was the temp gauge when you pulled over? you probably have a leak somewhere under the hood. coolant is coming out and smoking.

there is a difference between being low on coolant and overheating...

 

The temp gauge was almost hot, but not quite. no other warning lights came on or anything, it was probably a little better than 3/4 up, kinda scared me. Im gonna check the line that's about 6 inches under the oil filter, and see if that's bad.

any place i can get a mazda thermostat without going to the dealer?

 

rx7.com has them.

 

You said it was smoking on the drivers side? Check your heater hoses for leaks. It is common for them to spring leaks since they often have oil dripping on them when people change the oil filter.

 

Sounds like normal hoses & belts maintenance. Swap them out and drive on

 

Im gonna replace the hoses and the thermostat. Should i buy these from mazda? is that a good idea?

Also, how hard is it to do?

If I am to order the hoses from Mazda, what are they called specifically besides the "hose thingies"?

Thanks for all your help, Im a much happier guy when my car runs...

 

heater hoses, there are 2 of them, just goto the dealer's parts department they have them in stock.

 

Im gonna replace the heater hose (the long one) on the drivers side, and the thermostat.

Also, what's the best way to flush the coolant? What precautions should i take when replacing the thermostat/hose so i dont screw anything up?

Thanks for your help.


I just called the dealership, im gonna go get my new parts

Anything else i should know?

 

Get the factory hose clamps too, they dont cut into the hoses. Replacing the thermostat on an FC easy, should be no problem. Always take care of the cooling system, you dont want that motor overheating. We were working on an FD this weekend, trying to get it started after the owner overheated it. We popped the thermostat cap off, cranked the motor and coolant gushed out of the thermostat housing, like a volcano. It was quite funny. But not funny for the owner who now must buy a motor because all the compression is going through the cooling system. I have some pics, ill post them for a good laugh when i get them developed. =]

 

I checked all my lines and stuff today, one of my heater hoses (the one under the oil filter) was completely ripped open. I also bought a new thermostat, so that's my project for tonight.

Thanks for all your help guys, I appreciate it.

Jameson

 

I would love to see those Pic's Seth. Let us know when you get them devloped. Thanks !

Sully

 

I replaced everything (the hose and the thermostat) and made sure all clamps were tight and everything. nothing was leaking out of the thermostat when i had the car on. The Temp gauge in the car didnt rise an inch at all after the car had ran for about 10 minutes. nothing seemed to be leaking, there was no steaming at this point. The idle seemed high, about 2500 rpm, never dropped.
during all of this, the coolant buzzer and light were still on (bad sensor maybe?).

So i decided to drive it around the block. It drove fine, but the idle was still high. The temp gauge never moved, and when i was almost back, the car began to steam. I stopped at a stop sign and the car died. Steam began to come out from under the hood, but slowly. I push started the car, because I figured it was flooded, it started up. I made it home and it died in the driveway. I opened the hood and checked stuff out, everything seemed to be fine with all the hoses, etc.

There was 1 wire, very thin and a copper color to it, with some sort of a plug on the end? hanging down from the right rear rotor housing (as you face the engine), Is this some sort of a temperature gauge? The temp gauge didnt move at all, the car was on for about 20 minutes. Stayed dead cold, even though the engine was warm. I was going to push start the car again, but i turned the key and it started, with the idle around 1000. Coolant light and buzzer still on. It's parked in the garage right now.


That's my story

If anyone has any ideas whatsoever, please let me know.

Lets hope we can get this thing workin It's only an N/A

As far as i know, the car has never overheated, nor did it the other night.

Jameson

 

can you guys help me with this?>

 

I thaught that might have been the case, but i didnt know. i took that air bleeding screw out, right behind the coolant resivoir, and replaced it. some air seemed to come out.

Do you know what that proceedure is for filling the coolant? I would be greatful

 

bump

 

You CAN refill an empty system from the filler cap. That plug could be the plug for the water temp. sensor so i'd find it and plug it back in. The oil pressure sender is also in the area of the heater hose and it could be that if the gauge is not working. Just fill it with coolant, recap, and use the upper hose like a pump...just keep squeezing it. You'll have to repeat that many time and it's easier if you fill the "block" before you install the thermostat. Just be patient you can get it full. Use the air bleed screw after the cooling system is mostly full. Usually works for me.

Todd

 

Have a 50/50 coolant/water mixture ready and with the engine cold (off over night), open the rad. cap and take it off the thermo. housing, see where the coolant level is. It is prolly low, in any case continue..

You will need to get the air out, unscrew the "bleeder screw" (on the passenger side, top of rad.) don't worry if coolant comes out, when it does start the engine, and plug it back in. Now as the engine is warming up keep adding coolant(a little at a time and squeeze on the hose from time to time and rev the engine a little) do this until coolant reaches the top and put on the rad. cap on and tighten it, don't forget to fill the reserivour with coolant. Drive around, check the levels the next day with the engine cold.