I didn't see anything about this in the archive so maybe it should be put in....

The OMP is a very valuable part of the engine and if it goes out.... you're fucked.

So I want to know HOW to tell, easilly, if it is working for sure. I have the electric one, so if the engine code comes on, i would know something is wrong. What would trigger it though? Could something be broken and the light not work?!

What about if the 11+ yr. old plastic tube(s) happen to break and oil doesn't get to the housings? Will there be enough to see a puddle on the ground? How would you tell?

Is there any way to tell that ENOUGH oil is getting to the housings?

I dunno, I was just thinking about all this crap and it got me worried. And it's cold up here from November-March so i really can't just pop the intake man. off and check it all out .


While on the subject, what oils would help/hurt the OMP (syn vs. organic, weight etc...)?

I mean i JUST put in a new engine one year ago and want her to LAST. OMP failure is the last thing i need.


Thanks to all who reply to my long *** post!


PS - Anyone know WHY the REAR rotor/housing is always (or almost always) the first to go???!

 

In the Haynes manual it shows ya exactly how to test it.
I can't remember all of the procedure. But it's something like, pulling off a hose and measuring the fluid oz. it emits in a certain time.

Definatly get the proper procedure before trying.

If it's a mechanical(86-88) OMP, they tend to fail a lot less and cost !MUCH! then the electrical ones(89-92)

 

Couldn't you tell if you just noticed that your car wasn't burning oil anymore?

That makes sense to me.

 

Natedogg, you i guess could tell, but by that time your **** would have been on the side of the road wondering why the hell your cars acting up. It takes a short while for your engine to fail due to the OMP. correct?

 

I don't think I've ever heard of a mechanical metering oil pump failing, but I have heard of (and seen) the electrical ones fail. Usually, the pump fails and starves oil to the rear rotor, hence it is the first to blow.

Usually, it is the brittle plastic lines or injectors themselves that fail. There is a procedure in the Haynes manual for testing.

 

Whats the OMP? and ECU while im asking about acronyms.

 

OMP-oil metering pump
ECU-do not know exact name, but it is the computer that lives under the passenger's feet

 

First of all, it's Metering Oil Pump, not oil metering pump. It supplies oil to the apex seals via injectors in the intake and housings. Keeps the seals lubricated. This oil is not recoverd, but burned as part of the combustion cycle.

The ECU stands for "Emissions Control Unit", but is basically the computer that controls ignition, fuel and emissions equipment. Some people call it "Electroic Control Unit".

 

yeah, it is Metering oil pump... .... but, i never understood why its call the OMP, no the MOP..--shrug--

 

Thanks for all the interest guys.

So how can you prevent this or know when it's going on to save your engine?

I have the Haynes manual and to test it you gotta do alot of ****... and it's cold out here (until may-october, then it's 80-90s ). What about the ppl living in apts. or whatever and can't do that kind of work to their car??

 

The only way you can judge the condition of your pump is to be familiar with your car's oil consumption habits. Or do the test.

One precaution is to premix 2 stroke oil into your gas. There have been many threads in the past on this, so there's lots of info around.

 

Yeah, it uses about 1/2 to a whole quart between oil changes (2500-3000miles) depending on driving habits... I'm pretty sure the oil is making it through the pump.

Would there be a puddle developing under the car at idle if, say, the plastic tube broke? (It's not happening but just curious)

When i change my oil next (some time this week) i'll let her run for a good 5-10 mins and LOOK at the lines to see if they will change from the old dark oil color into the new AMBER one.....

 

I believe both S4 & S5 oil metering pumps are electronically monitored and will trigger a check engine light.

Correct me if I'm wrong RETED.

 

what i meant was you could tell if you were checking your oil on a regular basis. Like everytime you filled up with gas. You could tell if the oil level was falling or not over the course of say.... 500 to 800 miles right?

 

Bought my 87 na last fall (111k miles), and tossed an apex seal off of the rear rotor (out the exhaust port) in Jan. (114k miles) I noticed all along that the oil level was not dropping at all, but did I do the test that I read about in the Haynes manual the first week I had the car? Of course not. My engine's in pieces on my workbench right now. My OMP will be working perfectly when its back together, I guar-on-tee....

 

OK, I run 5W-30 oil (NAPA parts guide reccomended it) and I seem to be going through oil too quickly. Am I using the wrong weight, or is something in the oil delivery system f'ed up? Oh yeah, I use about a quart a month.

 

5W30 should only be used if your enviroments average temp is below 0F and never if your average temp is above 40F.

 

Well, after This weekend , I checked my oil and it comsumed 1/2 a quart

So I know the pump is pushing oil thruough.

Hopefully, all the oil is going into the chambers evenly and nothing is starving. Hopefully, the lines are remain intact under the intake manifold....

 

Hey dre 2000 and everyone for that matter. the OMP plastic line that goes to the rear rotor block was clogged up near the banjo bolt where you couldnt really see it without taking the thing off, hence my motor blew at 67K. Everyone just go check your OMP lines not just the OMP. Just trying to help folx.

 

Interesting... what has clogged it? Parts IN the oil?

Anyone know how much a new set of lines costs? Maybe I should just get a new set....

ONE more thing. Say something is clogged. That would result in more backpressure on the OMP through a specific line. Does this increase in pressure trigger the ECU to put up a OMP code (check engine light)?? I would think/HOPE that it does...

Next time I change my oil (soon) i'll watch to see that ALL the lines change to a nice clear-amber color... perhaps just doing that every oil change can help.
i.e. One line stays dark, you know it ain't working...

 

UGH! Damn MN winters. ****** OVER 12 inches of snow in the past 48hrs. What a nice ****** April fools day joke Well I won't be changing my oil for a few days then.

Anybody else gotta change their oil now? Could you please start 'er up after the change and then watch the lines and see if they do change color?

 

^ We need a bump smiley ^

 

You mean this one?


-Ted