importtuner137

Okay, not really... But, I might with the heat it produces and with the fuel that's POURING through it when I crank the engine...

We (my auto shop group and I) had everything else fine tooned and ready to drive the car out of the shop. Or, so we thought.

We noticed an oil colored leak that smelled of fuel. After getting the car on the hoist we notice that it's fuel pouring through the bell housing. The top of the housing is dry, meaning that fuel isn't pouring into then through the housing. I suspect that it's coming from the rear main seal or something...

We've pulled the intake off and looked for anything pinched in the bell housing to mounting bolts. Nothing. I'm about to give up on this car and tow it over to a professional tech... I'm completely stumped.

My car is an '86 GXL with a Jspec TII swapped in.

Any advice or answers would be awesome!

Please and thank you,
Scott

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

are you sure its coming from the bell housing? could it be a loose line or a line with a hole coming from the fuel pump spraying onto it making it look like its coming from the housing?

importtuner137

I'm sure it's from the bell housing... We pulled off the cover plate on the bell housing and had someone crank on it. It started dripping a constant stream off the counter weight and flywheel directly.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Check the oil pedestal.there are 2 O rings under it.
also have you replaced a Oil filter lately?Could be that you Inadvertently Left a Rubber O ring from a Old filter on..it would cause a Leak.

importtuner137

I have replaced the old filter lately. Yesturday in fact... One of the other guys did it too... I'll have to check that.

Is there anyway that I could be coming from the rear main seal at all? The car is at my High School and I'm trying to get a list of things to check now.

Also, the car isn't starting up anymore... The first time I went to start it, it started right up no problems. Untill I reved it up to maybe 2.5 RPM's Maybe 3. Now she's running like crap. She has trouble holding an idle and a bunch of other issues.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The only possible way for fuel to make its way onto the flywheel is if the hoses on your primary or secondary rail are leaking, or you PD is leaking badly. Pull the manifold and it will be obvious where the fuel waterfall is coming from.

importtuner137

I did pull the upper manifold right after the leak was noticed... And, there's nothing on top of block / bell housing. Bone dry.

farberio

iTrader: (7)

The motor could leak out of the rear main seal only if it was pretty much missing and the rear rotor was completely flooded.

WingsofWar

A buddy of mine had his front cover cracked which ultimately left his engine running like crap because he lost oil pressure. He replaced the front cover and car ran beautifully again. You could have lost enough oil pressure to make a difference if especially if there's a major oil leak somewhere in the rear iron. Coolant may also be mixed in the oil depending on the location of the leak, which could give off a sweet smell that could be mistaken as fuel. If the fluid leaking is darker in color or similar to oil that could be it.

importtuner137

Well, the exhaust doesn't smell sweet at all. Nor does the fluid that it's leaking. It's deffinately fuel scented and the exhaust fumes smell strong of fuel. Meaning it's running rich right?

importtuner137

We're almost done pulling the tranny out. We're going to check out the rear of the engine after it's down. Which should be early tomorrow.

At that point, we're going to remove the fuel injection fuse (as we have done before) and crank on the engine just to see what she does and where she's leaking.

Fingers crossed that I won't have to go for a rebuild... But, if so I'll get her street ported whilst I'm at it.

Anyone know a good place for rebuilding rotaries in the Boise Idaho area??

Please and thank you,
Scott

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Sounds like a hell of an auto shop class project..... learning how easy it is to rebuild these guys! Im keeping my fingers crossed for ya!

importtuner137

Alright, today we pulled the tranny, drive shaft, and, starter out. We then turned the key to the start position which pressurized the lines. We could hear the pump running and we could feel fuel going through the lines. We looked for any leaks and couldn't find any at all. So, I've come to decide that the leak only happens whilst the engine is being cranked on.

If there is any other logical explanation please let me know.

I've called two dealer ships one other independant Mazda specialist auto shop. And, one of my buddies from the local rotary club. Everyone but one of the dealerships said that they had no idea. The one dealership said to replace all of my fuel injectors.

Please also note that it only leaks while the engine is being cranked to start or is running. This is both with and without the fuel injection fuse removed.

Please and thank you,
Scott

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Still havent found where it leaks FROM?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Have you checked for a severely flooded motor?

kyleaudio

iTrader: (22)

when you have the fuel pump on and you feel fuel flowing through the lines, try pinching off the return line, i had a similar problem with my FD, fuel only leaked when cranking, turned out when i pinched the return it put full pressure on the lines and it sprayed out. the stock spring clamps werent strong enough, had to switch to worm clamps.

rotaryryan24

is it possible that the engine became so flooded that the fuel leaked into your oil through the oil seals, then thin'd out your oil and making it thin enough to pass through your rear main, pull your dipstick and smell it

importtuner137

To texFCturboII: I have a Walboro fuel pump. So, it should be pushing 90psi or so. And, with the tranny removed and the engine not being cranked on. I am not seeing any leaking anywhere at all.
Please re-note that the top of the bell housing was bone dry during the bellhousing leaking. (Meaning that the leak is coming from inside the bellhousing?)

To farberio: I have done the de-flooding process many times. I've done the fuel injection fuse pulling with WOT method with and without the injectors in.
Odd thing of note, the bottom injectors were always bone dry when I pulled them and the top ones always had just a little bit of oil gas mix on them.

To kyleaudio: I've heard of that method and neglected to think of using it in this situation. I'll try that tomorrow at school.

To rotaryryan24: Now, I've never heard of that... I'm also running with no exhaust from the turbo back. (I have no downpipe that matches up to it at the moment.) I never saw raw fuel being pumped out of the turbo. But, I guess that it's quite possible. I forgot to plug in all the vacuum lines on the TB so it was running pig rich. I will also check the scent of my oil tomorrow. If the oil has fuel in it, that probably means that I need to do an oil change doesn't it? And, I just put fresh Royal Purple in it to...

I just talked to another dealership, they said that I should replace ALL of my injectors. I have both the primary and secondary fuel injectors from my '86 GXL they are low impendance just like the ones on the Jspec TII that I bought... My question is... How many CC's are the N/A injectors and how many CC's are the TII injectors... Are they interchangeable with out worrying about leaning out the fuel mixture?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Be thankful for this problem!!!

N/A's are 460cc I think. TII are 550cc. You NEED the TII injectors.

importtuner137

Just out of curiosity, why should I be thankful for this problem?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Do not use NA injectors on a TII engine. They're only 460cc, while TIIs are 550cc. This isn't going to be causing your problem, but if you get the thing running, it will blow in no time at all.

Something you might try is bolting up just the transmission bell housing and starter, so you can still crank it over. Stick whoever draws the short straw under the car to watch what happens when you spin the engine.

importtuner137

To RotaryRocket88: I've opted for the short straw, just because I couldn't believe it when they said it was dripping from the tranny.
I pulled the bottom cover off of the Bell Housing, and had 'em crank on the engine with and with out the fuel injection fuse in.
Both times there was a 1-2cm wide stream of almost power steering colored fluid dripping from the flywheel and rear counter weight. After holding my hand in the stream the fluid smelled very strong of fuel. The leaking stops shortly after the engine stops spinning. That's when we pulled the tranny today and couldn't find anything with the fuel system pressurised.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

With that last description, I'd have to say it's more likely oil than fuel. There may be some fuel mixed in to give it more of a fuel smell, but the scents are similar anyway. The fact that it still did it with the EGI fuse pulled, means it can't be fuel from the lines at least.

The rear main seal is right in the area you described, and if it's bad, it will leak oil when the system is pressurized. You'll have to remove the flywheel to get a better look.

importtuner137

In order to change the rear main seal, I'd have to unbolt the rear iron wouldn't I? Meaning an engine rebuild...

kyleaudio

iTrader: (22)

since you've got the tranny off anyways, it would definately be a good time to pop the flywheel and replace the rear main seal anyways even if it does look fine, all you need to do is pry it out of the rear stationary gear and tap in a new one with a hammer, not too hard. you can also check the torque on all of the tension bolts too.