plainandsimpo

light cruise light throttle its about between 14 and 15 but under 15
when i full throttle it...its around 10 11s maybe low twelves depending on witch gear im in ... but last week i pull forth gear all the way to redlline for the 1st time and it was reading low 14's i thought it was reading wrong so i did it again ...wtf.. the four 750 cc injectors arnt keeping up? with my stock snail???
my mods are in my sigs...
tell me what air flow i should be reading so i can correct it with my safc please thanks


ps 1st 2nd 3rd gear boost 13 steady....but 4th gear goes to 15 psi... never boosted through 5th lol
maybe because streetport...not ssure whats your thoughts on this.

RXJIM

iTrader: (3)

14's are way to high. It's time to upgrade the fuel pump.

I had low 12's (12.1-12.3) at readline on the stock pump and 720cc secondaries. Droped in a FD pump and now the wideband flatlines 10.0.

Edit: I wanted to add that I was only on 9psi.

tigerbite

I would say to upgrade to a Walbro Fuel Pump. I just cost me 100 bucks on ebay and it took me about 40 minutes to get it swapped out. I was afraid of my car catching on fire. With the new pump it whines pretty loud. I like the sound because it tells me that it is working. Also my fuel lines were leaking after the pump was installed. I had to tighten to clamps.

plainandsimpo

sorry i forgot to post it but i do have a walbro fuel pump ....
yealp thanks for the replies guys



oh yea can someone help me find that one thread that has a fmic with the bumper sapport ..i cant seem to find that sucker ...thanks

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

He said cruising it's much higher than at WOT, that in itself is really odd to me... Do you have any tuning tools and if so has any tuning been performed? Also, I thought the Rtek 1.8 was preset to work with 4x720cc injectors, not 750cc. Now, theoretically you ought to be dumping a little more fuel than necessary, but it is something to consider. Are you sure you have no exhaust leaks?

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

hmmmmm.... check out your computer? Mine was doing something simialr when it blew on me and I still haven't located the source of the trouble; but I'm going megasquirt soon so I'll let ya know if that remedies it.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

What is the fuel pump voltage at WOT? You need to rewire the fuel pump if you haven't already done so.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Higher AFR's in cruising/high vaccum is perfectly fine and actually preffered.

There's not much load on the engine at those points so there's no need to dump a tonne of extra gas in just because. 14-15 even 16 is perfectly fine.

As the load increases (manifold pressure/rpm) the AFR's should dip down. If you're seeing low 11's under boost, thats right about where you want it. The higher AFR's at redline may hve been because the turbo actually started peeling off. I've only seen a few stock turbo setups (one with an external wastegate) that held full pressure to redline. It may have been peeling off and the fuel was cut back accordingly. But if not, then 14's at that point is dangerously high.

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

That would be mine

Spec.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Or mine (or a few others, I believe Aaron also kept his)

Spectator

iTrader: (1)

NOOO! I said it was mine!!!






Spec.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Naturally, but how high is preferred?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

* high 14's up to "0 PSI" AKA atmospheric pressure
* mid 12's up to 6 PSI
* mid 11's up to 14.5 PSI and above


thats what I heard from http://www.turborx7.com

These are the recommendations I was planning on using for my tuning, does this seem okay to everyone else?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

The OP's AFR's are perfectly acceptable as far as cruising is concerned.

I run my car at mid 15's while cruising.

EDIT: How high depends on a number of variables but generally speaking under light load you can run as lean as you want as long as it still runs smoothly and doesn't buck and the EGT's aren't too astronomical. There is no magic number really.

pistones

iTrader: (5)

my car cruises at 15-16 afr with a stock computer and injectors, supra pump.

plainandsimpo

thanks guys for all the replies and support =)
thanks for the front mount pics...too

and oh yea i almost forgot.. the rich and lean sensor thing thats right around where the air intake is
was on lean all the way ...i had it set this was when i had them cheap venom injectors in my car so itll hold idle ... and later found out it was STUCK open on two of them ,and the other 2 running at only 70 percent...and i only had them for 3 days lol word of advise DONT BUY VENOM INJECTORS FROM EBAY ...oh yea i also read about them in the for sale section recently ...=/

back to the point ..since i setted the rich screw back to rich ..the air fuel ratio on my wireband got a little lower reading 10.9 and 11.0 at idle now ..b4 it was between 11.7 and 11.9 ..other then that i dont really rememeber if it helped out in boost..because didnt drive it yet..maybe after i get my aeerimotive fpr on there tomarrow hopefully it runs richer at boost .do to that little sensor/richand lean thing by the air intake lol =)

hey spectator and classicauto you guys have any pics of how you ran the pipes too?? im tryin to see so i can have an idea on how to put it together when i order the pipe kits from ebay ...thanks

nope but i think i need too..ive did research on this b 4...but lol it looked kinda confusing so i gave up ...i guess ill give it a shot on rewiring it .as for the voltage i dont know..never checked after i installed ...all i know is that its working and its freaking annoying when i turn off my head unit..all i hear is wooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo ooooooooooooooooooo
Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooo
Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooo
Oooooooooooooooooooo.. in the back LOL

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Dude, if you don't rewire your fuel pump nothing is going to help you. I had 720/1680 injectors , aeromotive FPR, Supra TT pump... and the car was still leaning out due to low fuel pump voltage.

A fuel pump rewire which retains the resistor relay is not easy to do. Honestly I cut out the resistor relay and simplified it greatly, but I have a standalone. If you have an adjustable FPR I would probably remove the resistor relay. Here is a thread I made about what I did... you can disregard the debate in the thread about the safety of the wire I was using. The basic wiring diagram is correct. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...el+pump+rewire

DAVIDP

iTrader: (1)

I must agree 100%. I can tell you from experience my car was leaning out at high rpms during full boost (16 lbs.) last fall in the cold weather despite running 720cc primaries & 1000cc secondaries with a rotary performance racing fuel pump. I rewired it this spring and it made a huge difference. I actually had to change my fuel settings a bit leaner.