i got a cheap afm on ebay to test my setup ..

anyway ... the screw that is molded over or whatever is open and im able to turn it ..
i havent touched it, but has anyone else done this type of ajustment

it says in the FSM that its factory preset, and shouldnt be messed with ... which is why its molded over .. but whoever i bought this afm from has drilled out that molding and the screw is there .. just chillin...

can i use this as an advantage?

has anyone ever messed with it???

 

I have drilled mine so I can mess around with it. From what I have heard it controls the air that goes through the afm if you turn it clock wise you lessen the amount of air that goes through the bypass in the afm making the car run richer, if you turn the screw counter clockwise you allow more air to flow thought the bypass and therfor lean out the car. Somebody please correct me if im wrong

 

so i could possibly hurt my car by adjusting this??

 

I read about this somewhere- something like you screw it all the way in, then take it out 2.25 turns, and that should do it, I think it was on one of the fc3s.org writeups about idle problems or some-such....I think it has to do with the amount of bypass air allowed past the door...

 

cause i think that relates to my problem ...
i know i have atleast one vac leak ...

its nothing huge as i dont hear the actual hissing, and spraying starter fluid doesnt allows incrase the engine rpm ...
so if its a vac leak that small surely my car would still idle below 1100... which it wont ...
so i assume im either getting too much fuel or not enough at idle ... and its causing the car to just stall out and die ...
so hopefully by adjusting this screw i can lean / richen the mixture and make it idle below a 1000 so i can get my timing in check ...

has anyone messed with this screw before ...
*in the meantime im heading over to fc3s.org's site*

 

bump????

 

If you are trying to get the car to idle below a 1000 try the adjustment screw located on the throttle body at the primary butterfly it has a little plastic cap on it I found that worked to stabalize my idle problems as for adjusting the afm screw It will not afect you idle that is taken care of at the throttle body because nomatter how much more air goes through the afm it all stops at the butterflys so you need to mes with them instead. hope this helps and good luck man.
Mael...515

 

by adjustment screw do you mean the screw with the 8mm lock nut on it ?

cause if thats the one your referring to, thats the only thing on the TB i have adjusted
the remaining throttle plates should be almost completely flush with the chamber at idle correct??

P.S. the TB mod has been done on this TB

 

Gotta make sure your initial set connector is jumpered to adjust the idle at the TB (if you still have the BAC and/or air bypass solenoid systems stiil on there)...

 

have no emmissons ... no bac ..

i did jumper the initial set coupler last night though ..

if you remove all this stuff do i need to jumper it ...

 

?

 

I wouldn't think so, because the ECU can't use the (nonexistant) BAC to counteract your adjustments, but who knows, the ECU might be doing some other weird things in it's little electronic brain with that jumper there, so I dunno....