my 88 fc n/a smokes ALOT
#1
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my 88 fc n/a smokes ALOT
i just got my 1988 fc n/a and it smokes a ton we have done everthing i know of to fix it nothing really helps
heres what i have done so far
checked for bubbles in radiator
checked compression it was 90 on the gauge without bounceing
oil smells like gas
not losing necoolant
this is my first rotary car and im kinda clueless someone please help i love this car
heres what i have done so far
checked for bubbles in radiator
checked compression it was 90 on the gauge without bounceing
oil smells like gas
not losing necoolant
this is my first rotary car and im kinda clueless someone please help i love this car
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ok its blue at start up turns to white then back to blue when it gets up to operating temperature and it constantly smeels like oil all the way throught the revs
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Sounds to me like you need a rebuild. Rotarys are meant to burn oil, but not a WHOLE lot. And especially if the oil is smelling like gas, there is a leak in your engine.
#6
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Coolant seals and oil seals.
The coolant seals being bad are what causes the white smoke at start up. after you burn all the coolant out it stops being white. The front iron in your egine has a very thin spot that sometimes cracks. The coolant seal gives way at that same spot. The white smoke will get worse and worse.
The oil seals are rings on the side of your rotor that dry up and go bad allowing oil to seep into your housings. When I pulled mine apart (had the same symptoms as you) One oil seal had a crack all the way through and another was cracked in two places all the way through and they all (you have 2 on each side of your rotors=8 all together) were hardened and brittle. As was the case with all the rubber items in my engine.
This is an extreme diagnoses. It could be something simple. but brace yourself
The coolant seals being bad are what causes the white smoke at start up. after you burn all the coolant out it stops being white. The front iron in your egine has a very thin spot that sometimes cracks. The coolant seal gives way at that same spot. The white smoke will get worse and worse.
The oil seals are rings on the side of your rotor that dry up and go bad allowing oil to seep into your housings. When I pulled mine apart (had the same symptoms as you) One oil seal had a crack all the way through and another was cracked in two places all the way through and they all (you have 2 on each side of your rotors=8 all together) were hardened and brittle. As was the case with all the rubber items in my engine.
This is an extreme diagnoses. It could be something simple. but brace yourself
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are you going to do it yourself, or are you looking to have a shop do it?
If you do it yourself, and the rotors, rotor housings, and plates are all good, and the only thing you replace are the seals, seal springs and gaskets, it will be:
$548 (plus shipping) for the rebuild kit from www.rotaryaviation.com
$179.95 (plus shipping) for the engine gasket set from www.atkinsrotary.com
If you do it yourself, and the rotors, rotor housings, and plates are all good, and the only thing you replace are the seals, seal springs and gaskets, it will be:
$548 (plus shipping) for the rebuild kit from www.rotaryaviation.com
$179.95 (plus shipping) for the engine gasket set from www.atkinsrotary.com
Last edited by Project84; 02-27-05 at 12:17 AM.
#12
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Originally Posted by fcdrifter13
ok its blue at start up turns to white then back to blue when it gets up to operating temperature and it constantly smeels like oil all the way throught the revs
But there's no getting away from the blue smoke and what it means.
Regardless, sounds like an engine that is on it's way out (as has been said.)
Doing a rebuild is rather delicate work. You do have other options if you're uncertain of your own ability. Here's arguably the best-reviewed option in the forum: www.rotaryresurrection.com Have a look.
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honestly, burning oil wont hurt your motor much, other than carbon buildup, you could try the block weld treatment for your coolant leak, but you WILL need a rebuild, and every dollar you dont spend on that rebuild, you will have to put into that car eventually, so i reccomend, drive it modestly till you can save up for a good rebuild kit, youll probably need new housings as well with leaky coolant seals.
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welll im a diesel mechanic so i know lioke all the regular procedures for doin a rebuild i just dont wanna take apart my motor and never be able to get it back together
#15
Doin a rebuild.
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What weight oil are you using? Supposedly you can put off a rebuild due to oil control rings by stepping up oil weight (like from 10w30 to 20w50)
As a diesel mechanic rebuilding a rotary should be pretty simple for you. The rotary is going to be a lot easier to do a complete overhaul on than a diesel piston engine because of the like 3 actual moving parts. You should be able to find tons of results by doing a search in this forum. Typically there are lots of pictures too. *See search on top right of forum tables or master search on the gray bar.
As a diesel mechanic rebuilding a rotary should be pretty simple for you. The rotary is going to be a lot easier to do a complete overhaul on than a diesel piston engine because of the like 3 actual moving parts. You should be able to find tons of results by doing a search in this forum. Typically there are lots of pictures too. *See search on top right of forum tables or master search on the gray bar.
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