my 6port Turbo
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rxSIETE
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my 6port Turbo
Hello everyone,
So let me start by saying what I have is a s4 6port na gxl, that i have finally turboed, which I have been wantin to do for the past 4 years. Life has been little hectic considerin I'm 20 got the car when 16, and been in college and bein an AF cop. Since this forum has helped me with a lot, i figured i would give back. Hopefully this will clear up any questions that a future potential 6port turboer may have. The list consists of:
s4tII intakes port matched for 6port block and tb
s5 turbo w/ manifold
s4tII secondary fuel rail
550cc injectors (for now)
n318 pressure sensor
n322 rtek 1.5
SAFC
550cc injectors (for now)
Racing Beat dp
Racing Beat oil pedestal sandwich
AEM wideband
Prosport boost gauge
TurboXS RFL bov
XSPower fmic w/ custom piping
all emissions blocked
ps, ac, air pump removed
mazdatrix oil level sender blockoff plate w/fitting welded for turbo return
some home depot couplings for fmic pipping as well
Koyo rad (not installed just yet)
mazdatrix stainless braided oil cooler lines (not yet either)
new vac, fuel, coolant lines !!!!
walbro 255lph fuel pump
other parts done over time:
energy suspension bushings
eibach pro-lowering springs
tokico blues
mazda oem clutch replaced
custom 2.5" exhaust back to N1 type exhaust
Koyo rad (not installed just yet)
mazdatrix stainless braided oil cooler lines (not yet either)
all new brakes w/drilled and slotted rotors
5zigen FN01RC's
short throw shifter
solid tranny mounts
New black paint job
Now the order i did things was so that the car would be down for as little as possible, being i am a very busy person with workin on base and school. First I did all the electronics, because they took so little time to do and i could drive after them being put on. First, already having ps and ac removed, I wired in safc, then boost gauge, then wideband (didn hook up sensor obviously). Second, gutted front bumper and bolted up fmic and ran piping (obviously to nothing...lol). Now the real project begins. Start the dismantle of the NA intakes. take all of it off till bare motor. Keep everything, cuz you may need to use bolts and nuts as I did. I retained the na primary fuel rail. Eliminate all the emissions crap, that big vacuum spider and those sensors connected to it. The only sensors you will have plugged in around the intake area at the end are tps, alt, iat, cas, na-maf and i may be missin some but pretty sure thats it. There are pictures that are easily found to explain emissions removed on intakes, so im not goin to explain those.
Turbo lines:
Water feed-rear iron
Water drain-lower heater hose comin off radiator
Oil feed-Racing Beat oil pedestal sandwich
Oil drain-mazdatrix oil level sender blockoff plate w/welded fitting
Also, intake gets bolted on first, made that mistake couldn get to lower 2 nuts with turbo bolted up first, also its easier if you bolt turbo to manifold first as well.
You can even retain your na throttle cable and just manipulate it to work as i did, and same with the omp connecting rod
I posted some pics, but I have a TON more, I am trying to post as many as i can, because I remember tryin to find all that stuff too. And if i am missin or forgettin anything I will post up when i remember to do so.
So let me start by saying what I have is a s4 6port na gxl, that i have finally turboed, which I have been wantin to do for the past 4 years. Life has been little hectic considerin I'm 20 got the car when 16, and been in college and bein an AF cop. Since this forum has helped me with a lot, i figured i would give back. Hopefully this will clear up any questions that a future potential 6port turboer may have. The list consists of:
s4tII intakes port matched for 6port block and tb
s5 turbo w/ manifold
s4tII secondary fuel rail
550cc injectors (for now)
n318 pressure sensor
n322 rtek 1.5
SAFC
550cc injectors (for now)
Racing Beat dp
Racing Beat oil pedestal sandwich
AEM wideband
Prosport boost gauge
TurboXS RFL bov
XSPower fmic w/ custom piping
all emissions blocked
ps, ac, air pump removed
mazdatrix oil level sender blockoff plate w/fitting welded for turbo return
some home depot couplings for fmic pipping as well
Koyo rad (not installed just yet)
mazdatrix stainless braided oil cooler lines (not yet either)
new vac, fuel, coolant lines !!!!
walbro 255lph fuel pump
other parts done over time:
energy suspension bushings
eibach pro-lowering springs
tokico blues
mazda oem clutch replaced
custom 2.5" exhaust back to N1 type exhaust
Koyo rad (not installed just yet)
mazdatrix stainless braided oil cooler lines (not yet either)
all new brakes w/drilled and slotted rotors
5zigen FN01RC's
short throw shifter
solid tranny mounts
New black paint job
Now the order i did things was so that the car would be down for as little as possible, being i am a very busy person with workin on base and school. First I did all the electronics, because they took so little time to do and i could drive after them being put on. First, already having ps and ac removed, I wired in safc, then boost gauge, then wideband (didn hook up sensor obviously). Second, gutted front bumper and bolted up fmic and ran piping (obviously to nothing...lol). Now the real project begins. Start the dismantle of the NA intakes. take all of it off till bare motor. Keep everything, cuz you may need to use bolts and nuts as I did. I retained the na primary fuel rail. Eliminate all the emissions crap, that big vacuum spider and those sensors connected to it. The only sensors you will have plugged in around the intake area at the end are tps, alt, iat, cas, na-maf and i may be missin some but pretty sure thats it. There are pictures that are easily found to explain emissions removed on intakes, so im not goin to explain those.
Turbo lines:
Water feed-rear iron
Water drain-lower heater hose comin off radiator
Oil feed-Racing Beat oil pedestal sandwich
Oil drain-mazdatrix oil level sender blockoff plate w/welded fitting
Also, intake gets bolted on first, made that mistake couldn get to lower 2 nuts with turbo bolted up first, also its easier if you bolt turbo to manifold first as well.
You can even retain your na throttle cable and just manipulate it to work as i did, and same with the omp connecting rod
I posted some pics, but I have a TON more, I am trying to post as many as i can, because I remember tryin to find all that stuff too. And if i am missin or forgettin anything I will post up when i remember to do so.
Last edited by rxSIETE; 11-10-09 at 09:18 PM. Reason: missed some things
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#9
rxSIETE
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now when it started there were 2 oil leaks, the pedestal (now tightened and sealed properly no leaks, and turbo return on pan, but sealed and no leaks either)
If you look at the pics of the turbo, the feed line is little kinked, but bought a 45degree fitting for that, and a 90degree fitting to a stainless braided line for the water drain, because it gets awfully close to turbo manifold. But thats it for now, was flooded when first started, but that was easily overcame, and i have the 7 runnin rich for now. Also, i bought a dual alt pulley, but just waitin for it to come in. But any questions feel free to ask, and hope this helps any who need it.
rxSIETE
If you look at the pics of the turbo, the feed line is little kinked, but bought a 45degree fitting for that, and a 90degree fitting to a stainless braided line for the water drain, because it gets awfully close to turbo manifold. But thats it for now, was flooded when first started, but that was easily overcame, and i have the 7 runnin rich for now. Also, i bought a dual alt pulley, but just waitin for it to come in. But any questions feel free to ask, and hope this helps any who need it.
rxSIETE
#12
Former FC enthusiast
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Good stuff, you need bigger pics though Car looks super clean. Have you boosted it at all yet? How much boost? Are you having problems with the home depot couplers? I used them for a while but after warming up the rubber would get soft and pop off from under the clamp. I don't understand the oil drain setup though...I thought that sensor was on the other side of the pan?
#13
The waiting game......
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One thing I don't understand is when people turbo there 6 ports, why don't they just tap a hole in the front cover? TII's and n/a use the same front cover, just the holes aren't tapped.
But the swap looks good. Also, I hope you have an e-fan if you are not going to be running a fan shroud. Without the fan shroud you will overheat.
But the swap looks good. Also, I hope you have an e-fan if you are not going to be running a fan shroud. Without the fan shroud you will overheat.
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Engine, Not Motor
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But as you said, the same oil passages are cast into the NA front iron as the TII front iron. Most people don't tap it because it is a pain in the butt. If the engine is apart it is easy, but if the engine is assembled there is a risk of drilling/tapping chips ending up in the oil galleries. Not a good thing. So it's a lot easier just to use a pedestal, tap off the stock sender, or tap the oil cooler/lines.
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rxSIETE
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blwfly yes na rotors are used, its my stock 6port na engine that i have turboed, the compression is higher in the na engines and makes for more hp with less boost, but it was just easier and thanks for the compliment
KhanArtisT the ic piping is just temporary, and so is the turbo drain, i already bought another blockoff plate to just block it off, and a npt tap set to tap the same spot of the oil pan where aaron did for his return, at the moment its just off the wastegate, but i do plan on at least 10-12 within a week or so, also sorry all pics were taken via my phone, need to invest in a digital camera lol
2slow4stock aaron explained why i do not want to do the front iron, and the oil pedestal was soooo easy, and it looks good...lol oh i def am planning on getting an E-fan...no doubt just wanted to get it up and runnin first...
but a lot of this stuff is temporary because i do want to get a whole other fresh ported 6port put in, but that will not take place until i get back from my next deployment...my bank account will be lookin pretty nice then...lol but yea thanks for all the input so far
KhanArtisT the ic piping is just temporary, and so is the turbo drain, i already bought another blockoff plate to just block it off, and a npt tap set to tap the same spot of the oil pan where aaron did for his return, at the moment its just off the wastegate, but i do plan on at least 10-12 within a week or so, also sorry all pics were taken via my phone, need to invest in a digital camera lol
2slow4stock aaron explained why i do not want to do the front iron, and the oil pedestal was soooo easy, and it looks good...lol oh i def am planning on getting an E-fan...no doubt just wanted to get it up and runnin first...
but a lot of this stuff is temporary because i do want to get a whole other fresh ported 6port put in, but that will not take place until i get back from my next deployment...my bank account will be lookin pretty nice then...lol but yea thanks for all the input so far
Last edited by rxSIETE; 11-11-09 at 12:16 PM. Reason: no reason
#16
Former FC enthusiast
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So how does the car feel?
#22
rxSIETE
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some new updates are that the blockoff plate that i had welded was leaking pretty bad, so i bought another blockoff plate, and am getting a bung welded right underneath the turbo similar to aaron's location...also bought and installed stock waterlines, and a 45 degree fitting for the oil feed line all to eliminate kinks...im pretty sure a kink in my drain line coming right off the turbo caused a water leak in the turbo...but well see once i start it up...prob will need a rebuild, maybe its hybrid time!! lol also, replaced 1 fmic pipe so far, to eliminate so many couplings...also, purchased some 680cc injectors for future increase in boost...Thats it for now though, and ill be sure to update as soon as i have more info as well as pics...
rxSIETE
rxSIETE
Last edited by rxSIETE; 11-26-09 at 02:59 AM. Reason: no reason
#24
thanks for the info OP, I have a friend that will hopefully be turboing his n/a using all my extra turbo parts soon, so finding the info in one place is nice! Be careful with that boost tho. GL.
#25
PSHH! PSHH! HEAR ME NOW?
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The problem with running the drain into the oil pan is the oil will not drain out of the turbo properly. You will cause premature failure of the oil seals in the turbo. Other than that, looks like you did a pretty good job on the car. The most torque that I have made at low boost (under 15 psi) was using 9.4 rotors with a .50 trim T04E. It would blow the tires off going onto 3rd.