I just have the worst luck lately.. 2 of the engines toasted were in my FD. one due to toasted water seals causing lost compression in my FD, the replacement blew when my cat suddenly failed during WOT and I overboosted to like 18 PSI on the stock fuel system!

now, my brother overheated my S5 FC!! I mean really overheated, apparently he didn't take the "add coolant" and high temp gauge seriously.... The engine apparently lost compression, because it won't start at all.

So, I have this good S4 long block engine with emmisions removed in my wrecked S4 that only has like ~20 k max on it. If I can't sell this engine to help pay for a reuild, what would a swap involve?

what components can I keep off my S5? I know I need to use all the sensors, but can I use just the Short block off my S4?


I'm really frustrated, but not about to give up on the rotary...yet. Any help would be great guys. If I find out I can do this, I'll do a write up with photos too in case someone ends up in my position.

 

id make him pay for it or at least part. me and all my friends kind of have an understanding that if you break someones stuff you pay for it.

 

That sounds pretty fair to me.
As for swapping the engine, I believe you also have to swap the engine harness and ECU from the s4 as well as most if not all of the accessories on the block. I think its possible to reuse all of the accessories from the s5, but you would have to put the s5 front cover on the s4 block and have to port match the intake assembly and do a bit of grinding to make it fit, plus switching all the sensors over. Niether is particularyly easy, but I keeping the s4 as is and swapping in the ECU and harness should be a good bit simpler.
Theres others who know more specifics, so wait for them to chime in.

 

I'm not afraid to attempt a rebuild either. sounds like it would be just about as difficult to rebuild it as it would be to swap it and I'd have a better engine in using the S5 block.

yeah, he's helping out . with labor at least. I looked at Mazda trix though for rebuild kits, and it would cost around $1600.if that's the case I'd be better off sending it to rotary resurrection.

anyone know a cheaper place to get rebuild kits? I figure I've got enough RX-7s it'd be worth it to learn.

 

OEM is the best way to go when doing a rebuild.

 

damn, kick his ***.

 

I think all the blown engines are because you are insulting the gods with your signature that is near three times the allowed size. Maybe if Enthu's signature was just the maximum of 6 lines of text that is allowed, you would not have blown any engines.

 

Or, could it be that he spelled becoming wrong in it?

Vince

 

Kick his ***! and make his girlfriend your sex SLAVE!!.

 

Ha, I'll fix my sig for you ! I doubt if my sig was smaller I'd have fewer, but let's see if I don't blow another. I've been in the rotary game for 6 years and started clueless with my FD engine and no sig at all on RX7club.com.

I typo constantly too. I always reverse my "G" and "N" somehow and occasionally other letters too. I'll do some searching to find a rebuild kit link for OEM then. And practice my home row!

BTW Mark, I got my Wiper relay installed and the wipers functioned perfect for a couple days before my borther overheated the FC. Sure it will still work once it's runing again.

 

If you go into the GB section, there is a link for Atkins Rebuild kits for really reasonable prices... I remember seeing it a while ago but didnt need it... Go see if its still there... Atkins kits are the bomb (I know from experience... that's why I dont need another yet...)

Here... I found the link for you https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/2mm-rotor-kit-w-free-atkins-rotary-oil-filter-543335/. It looks like $445 for the rebuild kit and $140 for the gasket set and you are good...

 

Thanks, I see it still appears to be available for $899 for the kit. Just have to hope I have good rotors and housings still!

 

The S4 shortblock will swap right in, just change the front cover to allow the OMP. Then build the engine up with all the S5 parts. You will need to grind a chunk off the rear iron by the top inspection plate to allow the intake manifold to fit properly and block off the EGR on the center iron. Make sure you keep the S4 flywheel on the engine so that it is still a balanced assembly.

 

2 choices.

1. Make him pay for being a ******* moron. How can you ignore the Add Coolant warning anyways? It's possibly the most annoying noise (I can't hear it during redline so that doesn't count) I've heard in ANY car EVER.

2. Beat his *** and disown him if he refuses.

 

Man, you just can't get a break, can you.

well at least your wipers work, even if your motor doesn't

 

sorry to hear it man... well, my sugguestion to you would also be that when you get the engine rebuilt/replaced/whatever, invest into a lowmilage parts 7 and rebuild the engine(you have to look around, but its possiable to find good "blown blocks" make sure you know the seller though... then do a rebuild and keep a back up... thats what im doing anyway

btw, pawn your bro for me willya?

 

Keep in mind that if the engine was seriously overheated, there may be few usable parts left. Housings and irons warp, and if there is water in the engine for any length of time then seals rust in place.

If you are serious about rebuilding it then you should take it apart as soon as you can and clean things up so nastyness does not occur.

 

My S4 Shortblock has no EGR or OMP. So would I still need to swap the front cover if I'm going premix? I put bolts in place of the oil injectors with thread tape to stop any vaccuum leaks.

It's all emmission removed and had to run on premix. So, could I just bolt my S5 UIM and use the S4 LIM? Or do I need to need to grind because the S5 UIM requires the S5 LIM?

I'm Motivated to get it running knowing I can drive it in the rain with fully functioning wipers! And kicking my brother's *** won't help...though I REALLY wanted to. He's going to help with labor and money.

The waters all been drained out. I started takign the engine out yesterday. It overheated Sunday evening. I'm really hoping the heat damage was minimal and the apex seals popped right away. think the engine had like ~85psi compression on the rotors anyway.

I bought it from Beep777 who has an analog Mazda comp tester. the tape's print out I found in the glove box showed the pulses going to 85. so maybe they were really fragile and just popped before he could seriously overheat the engine.

Well, I'm weighing my options. I'll be posting up later when I complete/decide this issue.

 

haha Mr beep777, I remember a friend picking a car up from him like 4/5 years ago...

You're better off just buying a used running engine for cheap than trying to rebuild a severly overheated one, as Aaron said...

 

yeah, anything under 90, I consider a candidate for rebuilding.

I had a Turbo motor in my vert for a while that was down to 75 on the rear, but it was pretty scared up when I pulled the motor apart.

 

Mark, I figured it'd need a rebuild eventually being at 85. I talked to Kevin From RR and he can get a rebuild done for only a few hundred more than doing it myself, but I'll decide to ship it or not when it's out of the car. I'm stripping the block down right now. just taking a break to have something to eat.

BTW, anyone want a good running S4 Longblock in MN ? or a S4 shell with mild front damage for that matter? the money goes to a good cause! A new engine!