PvillKnight7

iTrader: (16)

Use a regular compression tester and let the pressure build. Should be over 100psi in 3sec with a strong battery.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Set your main pulley to the yellow mark (or the mark to the "right" nearest the coils, if your pulley doesn't have paint on the notch) Remove the distributor and remove the cap then set the distributor marker (arrow) on the base of the distributor nearest the gear in line with the divot on the gear shaft itself.. Hold the rotating assembly inside the distributor still and stab it back into the front cover... That should put you within tweaking distance of spot on for your timing.

I wouldn't recommend running it for very long in it's current condition, you will damage the new engine and/or set the car on fire. If the timing is set close the car will not have a hard time idling. So the fact that you say it runs at 1400rpm strengthens my assumption that the timing is off even further.

A rebuilt motor will be a little down on power initially, but should NOT have any problems moving normally under its own power at normal rpm range from minute one.... Biggest problem on a rebuild is idle and fuel consumption until compression runs up.

Good luck dude.

Mushiki

Took the whole DLIDFIS setup out, and replaced it with a stock ignition.

Runs like a charm.

In other words, something seems to be messed up with the DLIDFIS setup itself... need to take it apart and re-check everything.

Mushiki

Idleig at about 900 - 1000rpm at the end of the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6EaGSPa2SU

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

How does it drive under load?

Mushiki

Nothing like in the videos I posted before.

It pulls, it even pulls harder than it did before the rebuild... and the engine wasn't blown or anything -- it was stock with 75k miles.

Throttle response with the failing DLIDFIS was impossibly awful... you floored the pedal and had like 1sec lag before the engine revved up.

Even starting it up is a billion times easier.

Oh... and the exhaust isn't glowing anymore!

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

And there you have it

Does sound like an exhaust leak though.

Mushiki

Got rid of the exhaust leaks

Just messing around a little... still have to figure out what's wrong with the DLIDFIS setup... running regular (dizzy) ignition at the moment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDHRdcIHoEQ

slowestfc3s

nice job. this is pretty legit.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like a serious vacuum leak.

Mushiki

Trying to figure out what was wrong with the DLIDFIS setup, we finally figured that something was actually wrong with the DLIDFIS diagrams we had... the green cable form the dizzy had to connect to the GM module's W terminal, and the red one had to go to the G terminal.





Natalia, my girlfriend, helping out!



She modified the filter box to make the HKS filter fit in



Perfect job!

Mushiki

"Asado" with friends!



All done! (for now...)



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRo5RqwY9t8

Now I just need to break her in... and continue with the mods

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Looking the pictures the first thought that popped into my head was "why the **** is she wearing a scarf?". Then I realized while its close to 100 here you're prolly in winter.

Mushiki

Hehehe, exactly! That was a pretty cold saturday morning

DaBrkddy

Did you plug the pipes on the bottom of the rubber intake tube after getting rid of the IAC? It looks like the large one is open in the picture with the glowing exhaust pipe... If so that would cause the AFM to be out of whack.

Mushiki

The pipes are properly blocked

Mushiki

850 miles already! Running stronger and stronger...

Can't wait to reach the 1000 mile mark! Shifting at 4000rpm is a torture!

Here are my pretty premix bottles

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

I just have an old 20oz sprite bottle I have different measurements on for my premix.

Mushiki

So I came across a fue issues... maybe you guys can help me out here...

I even made a seperate thread to see if I get some input on this...
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rotary-tech-support-11/distributor-timing-advance-issues-please-help-972651/#post10817955

The car was running great, had plenty of power... sometimes had a tad more, some other times a tad less... but overall pretty good.

About a week ago, my brake booster craps out. The brake master cylinder was leaking a bit into it, eventually destroying it. So I took it to a shop and they rebuilt it. Good.

Now... I installed the rebuilt brake booster... no issues. I start the engine... no issues. Now... I take it for a spin, and the car feels like it has about 50% de power it had before... idles just fine, but I get sluggish acceleration, pretty aggresive backfires, RPMs going up in an irregular manner, bucking, etc.

I immediately assumed this was some kind of ignition issue, so I checked timing with a timing light. Strangely, no issues there... car idles at about 1200rpm, and I get 5* L/20* T (stock). The car still runs like **** though.

So... what now? Since the only thing I did for the car to run like this was fixing the brake booster... I thought it may be some sort of vacuum-related issue. Maybe the vacuum advance or something was working semi-properly with the leaky/broken booster, and the fixed one messed everything up for some reason...

So I disconnected the 2 vacuum hoses at the distributor and... the car runs better. Not 100% better, but I would say... 85% better.

Now... why would this happen? What should I do?

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

I have not followed the thread along. Just read this last post.

I would agree you had some sort of brake booster vac leak that you adjusted everything to and made it work well.

I would go through all the tune-up procedures. Including setting the TPS, timing, idle, etc

Mushiki

First... to correct my previous post, Leading is set to 0º, and Trailing is at +20º

Engine's idleing at about 1100rpm, TPS is now set to 0.98k Ohm... was at about 0.8

So I was just checking timing again... and I noticed this...

With the distributor vacuum hoses disconnected, I was able to see the timing advancing progressively when pushing the throttle.

Now... with the vacuum hoses connected I tried the same thing... and I noticed that timing advanced VERY abruptly... I just feathered the throttle linkage and I could see timing going from 0º to about -12º instantly... in about just a 100rpm difference (yes, a hundred).

Any ideas?

Mushiki

So... I haven't had the time yet to fiddle around with the brake issues, but I will tomorrow.

Still... my car now seems to be riddled with **** and issues... out of nowhere

Power's pretty shitty... I have a timing light with me and will set the timing properly tomorrow...

When shifting... gears won't go in unless engine revs are under 2000~2200rpm... happens with every single gear

... and just to add to the while **** situation... today I did a slightly aggresive turn while driving and for a second or two the car completely lost power...

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Your distributor has two forms of timing advance. 1 is mechanical, a weight and spring setup that will advance strictly based on rpm. 2. is the vacuum advance diaphragm, which the two hoses go to. The help to advance the timing based on engine vacuum, which is the abrupt timing increase you see based on little throttle inputs. I would be fearful of a "rebuilt" brake booster, as I have NEVER heard of that done before. That could and very may well be causing a nasty vacuum leak in the engine, which will **** up idea and make the car run badly). TPS should be set based on voltage at the ECU(1vdc) not based on resistance, since the resistance method doesnt take into account the resistance in the wiring harness itself. If you're having problems shifting I would look at the clutch hydraulics or possibly a problem with the clutch itself.

I personally would get the TPS set properly and cap off the brake booster line from the manifold to verify it isnt a vacuum leak. then start searching for problems with those two things out of the way.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

Any luck with this thing?

Mushiki

Yeah... nothing nice

On the shifting issue... seems like I destroyed the clutch disc during my several "engine vs brakes" fights

Regarding brakes... I just got a full caliper rebuild kit and a new brake master cylinder... seems like the one I had had been repaired and was causing the whole brakes dragging/locking issue -- since playing around with the pedal/piston didn't help much

When I get this whole thing sorted I'll go back to setting the ignition timing