hows this sound

RT .7333
60' 2.3386
330' 6.7549
1/8 et 10.4645
1/8 MPH 65.92
1000 et 13.6617
1/4 et 16.3719
1/4 MPH 83.28


With all my mods I should be running faster than this,
I think I have low compression but haven't tested yet.
I have also noticed that the better reaction time you get the slower ETs you will have. For instance I managed to get a .5693 RT but but 1/4 et was a 16.6245.

I think I may just buy a 13b from the local junkyard they only have the 86-88 but I could, use the housing bearings, ect.....
I'm straped for cash so I have to do it this way

I can get the short block setup for $150

I live in San Antonio so the allitude might be my prob,
but I want to break in to the 15s, which I think I should be running now, I am an experienced driver and slide the cluth to shift when racing, I get a nice chirp from 1st to 2nd.

So what do ya think?

 

RT has nothing to do with how fast you run.&nbsp RT is just how fast you reacted to the christmas tree.

The KEY number to look at is the 60' time.&nbsp At mid 2.3, you're not doing that well of a launch.&nbsp With practice, you should be able to run consistent 2.0-2.1 60's times.&nbsp With an efficient 2.0 60' time, your 1/4-mile time should come down under 16.0 seconds, so you're looking at a high 15-second potential run.&nbsp Rule of thumb is for every 0.1 off the 60' time, drop 0.2 seconds off the 1/4-mile time.&nbsp If you nail the launch, I'd see a 15.6 @ 85mpg possible.

Many people have this false sense they can run quick times down the 1/4-mile, but once on the track, it's very hard to do!

A modded NA FC like your doing high to mid 15-seconds is about right...




-Ted

 

I'm shifting at 8 grand, then when I push in the clutch I leave the gas in longer than normal to raise the rpms, then let it off and shift into the gear at the same time.
is this a formula for sucess?

 

Only if the engine makes power all the way to 8kRPM - I would doubt it unless the engine was ported?&nbsp I would shift at 7.5k or as low as 7kRPM myself.

I would also try and shift as fast as you can.&nbsp Shifts can take anywhere from 0.1 to 0.2 seconds - it sounds like you were actually take more time than that!&nbsp You could cut as much as HALF A SECOND if you shift faster! What you're doing now is just eating the clutch disc unnecessarily.

You're starting to look like a low 15-second FC afterall.

 

Ted, for some reason. Most 89-91 car who goes to the drag only do 15.8+ (thats the best I've seen). 86-88 do far much better. I think its the weight and the lack of torque of the rotary. I did 16.7, but i pulled 127rwhp stock, i did 16.7 when my car had no cats. The only thing that is different about mine time is that my trap speed was like 85.5mph

 

Mr. Cossie - you're using cheap *** tires.



-Ted

 

Ahh the only thing holding me back from that is my syncros, I've already blown one tranny, and got one from the junk yard now, the syncros where pretty good when I got it but now I can feel their pain when I shift.
If I shift as fast as I can from 1st to 2nd I won't beable to get it in gear easly at all, but hey I only paid 80 bucks for the tranny and they got plenty more at the junkyard

I figure since I'm not a highly paid executive of a corparation, and I'm 18, I can go with junkyard parts, this is my first car and I've had it 2 years, gone through 2 accidents, and countless other mechanical problems, why spend big bucks on something if your going to rag it out just the same. Though when I plan on getting my next car I'm going to **** about it, nothing crappy all premium parts, I hope to get a 3rd gen or a pimp *** TII.

 

When you shift, you want the revs to drop quickly for the next gear, not go up! This will be slowing you down as the engine's taking longer to match road speed. Also, a chirping tire is slipping, not gripping.
The most consistent indicator of power is your terminal speed, and it seems about right for your power. You just need to work on launching and shifting. It's alot harder than people think, but getting better at it is half the fun of racing.

 

I typically short shift 1st to 2nd in my (turbo ) FC, cause the wide difference causes grinding at any shift higher than that.&nbsp On top of that, redline in 1st gear just smoke the rear tires. Use some Redline MT-90 in the trans or some good synthetic trans fluid!




-Ted

 

Ted, I had Dunlop D60 A2, definitely not race tires.


I've found that I have to really raise the RPM to get a good launch with the NA. On the g-tech, i get the best time slipping out of the hole at 6500 RPM. Vosko did it at 8000.... Oh yeah, i think another problem I had with the time was that my car had this problem where the car would bog right after each shift. For some reason after I put a cat back in, the problem went away....

 

See what I mean.&nbsp Those D60 really are crappy tires.



-Ted

 

Yeah, but for winter. Those are great tires. I am going to use those as snow tire next year. I think I am going to try Kuhmo for the summer

 

Yeah... something's wrong. The 89-91 NA's ran 16 FLAT STOCK times, so you should be in the15's..

but those 16.0's were back in 89-91 WHEN THE CAR WAS FRESH

 

Those times were achieved by experienced road testers who didn't own the cars and so didn't mind doing repeated brutal launches in order to get the best possible time. Like I said, drag racing is harder than most people think, so magazine or manufacturers times shouldn't be taken as an indication of what you can get out of it.

 

They tested a GTUs at 16.7 So 16 flat what? I ahve the article on my website

http://www.geocities.com/tmak26b/89test.jpg

 

This is very true about drag racing. Everyone thinks all you have to do is step on it and shift fast, but there really is so much more to it. I was scared something was wrong with my Turbo II when I first got it to the strip, I was around 1.5 seconds slower than I should have been. After a couple of tries using different RPM's at shifting and launching,( and some non-crappy stock tires ) I had shaved 3 seconds off my original time. I have beaten so many cars that have faster 1/4 times on paper but the driver can make it happen on the track.

 

Whats up black, i was at alamo dragway last night...you should have met me there...i ran a 16.1...but i am still alittle scared since last time i broke my car...my launch needs better improvment...plus my 17" chrome rims dont help I would have run in the 15s if i had decided to keep going but i decided that was enough for the night...didnt want to push my luck...but if you want to meet up let me know.

Peace
Buddy

 

Drop the rear tire pressure, do a decent burnout, don't shift so high up, shift more quickly (the lighter you shift the faster you shift - the harder you shift the slower you shift - TRUST ME - this is why short-throw shifters suck because you have to force them more, slowing down your shifts)

And shallow stage, too. This is a good way to get an extra tenth

It should take about 30-40 runs of experimentation to figure out the best pressure, best launch technique, best shiftpoint for each gear, when working through it scientifically. And take notes, and pay attention to where you're gaining and where you're losing.

BTW I have never seen a stock FC run anywhere close to the 15's, but you have headers (Pacesetter... UGH... hope you modified them or they're as restrictive as the stock manifold) and an electric fan so that helps a bit.

 

Wonder what ill run after i practice I am going to a dragstrip next weekend first time in a manual tranny car. Used to old cameros and the like. See sig for mods if you wanna guess:

 

Coyote, Blackrx7, lemme know when either of you 2 go to the drags next time, I am in austin. Im up for a short cruise before racing

 

This only works with drag tires that have particular compounds that get very soft and stick with heat. It does not work with road tires. The extra heat you put in them from a burnout does very little for the grippiness. Burnouts on street tires are only good for impressing your mates and wasting rubber.

You have to push harder on the gearstick because its pivot point has changed which means the moment arm length has changed. The force being applied at the other end is the same. My shifts were quicker with a short-shift, but I guess every car’s different.

I completely agree with everything else you said, great advice, especially the shallow staging bit, not many people seem to realise this!

 

Yo, well i go to alamo dragway every wensday...i dont usually go to river city dragway...but i am on aim alot so if you want to chat my aim is coyotesa1

Peace
Buddy

 

Depends on the tire. Some Dunlops hooks better with some heat in them. My Goodyears DEFINITELY hook a LOT better with a good sized burnout. I can tell how good of a burnout i did instantly - with a good burnout, the clutch slips, with a bad burnout, the car just sits there and spins 'em.

It's just one more thing you have to practice. For sure though, you need to spin them. There's almost always debris, coolant, oil residue, spilled soda, etc. in the staging lanes - you don't want that crap on the tires. So you spin 'em to clean them off, and clean off the rubber marbles on the tread. One thing, though,m do not do the burnout IN the waterbox, do it at the far edge (where it's still damp), and once spinning them, roll forward out of the water, do not stop in the wet area. Otherwise you spray water up in the wheelwell, then get water on your tires again.

 

I could flat shift into 2nd with my first TII, and it wouldn't grind. It would grind any other way. Not advisable for long trans life.

I also used to launch my GXL at 6500 rpm. I had a 2.0 60' with bald tires, broken diff mount, and bad struts

 

Wow! I should race more often since my gas mileage sux!!